I’m with Dave. Arrow points the way the disc is traveling.
Unless you want uber reversing Exige. Is that why you have the duct on backwards on the intercooler? 
you must need a little holiday
[quote=TarmacTerrorist]Thanks Muu.
Mocking up the air filter piping, Im trying to get it as far into the side pod as possible (thoughts?? will wet days cause issues??) -
[/quote]
Gav when i converted my 118bhp S1 to 150bhp this was the mod i did for the air intake & was a great improvement over the intended position futher into the engine bay. I think you’d have more issues to worry about on track before the rain impacts on that set up 
Now hurry up before its a winter project again
What are you all going on about? Im the only sane one in the place!!! Lol
I know the spring clips are in the wrong way up, have no fear!!
The rear calipers on the car are the Lotus 4pot ‘big brake kit’ that would normally go on the front.
If you look closely at where the banjo fitting attaches there are 2 little cast in prongs on the caliper that hold the fitting in a fixed place when the bolt is tightened up.
When I came to run the brake lines in first time round the prongs were at the top (where the lines come in at the front), and it left the lines now coming in from the bottom semi free and able to touch the drive shafts with suspension movement.
I simply swapped the calipers over left to right and then had to swap the bridging pipe and bleed nipples over to the opposite ends… It now holds the brake line as it should in a lovely postion… I just haven’t got round to turning the spring clips over yet (like its not giving me enough to do already…).
;sigh:
All this talk of Banjo’s and nipples Gav. Have you been watching Deliverence again?
Thanks Dave for making me aware of my silly mistake!!!
What a plonker I am!!
In my bid to route the rear lines as nicely as I could, I completely forgot the calipers are left and right handed (they have a leading and trailing piston…).
Bollocks!!!
[quote=TarmacTerrorist]no its the right way up… its the caliper that is upside down!!!
work that one out…[/quote]
are you sure?
balance tube is at the bottom so caliper is the right way up or have you swapped tube and nipples over?
Handed I realise, but I didn’t know this. How does this work in detail, the pistons are identical I thought?
Loving your build.
[quote=series_one][quote=TarmacTerrorist]
…(they have a leading and trailing piston…).
[/quote]
Handed I realise, but I didn’t know this. How does this work in detail, the pistons are identical I thought?
Loving your build. [/quote]
From my basic understanding…
The leading edge wears a little more than the trailing edge, so having a leading piston with slightly less surface area and a trailing piston with a slightly bigger area allows the pad to wear flat rather than tapered along its length
Well summat lik that any road…
[quote=seriouslylotus][quote=series_one][quote=TarmacTerrorist]
…(they have a leading and trailing piston…).
[/quote]
Handed I realise, but I didn’t know this. How does this work in detail, the pistons are identical I thought?
Loving your build. [/quote]
From my basic understanding…
The leading edge wears a little more than the trailing edge, so having a leading piston with slightly less surface area and a trailing piston with a slightly bigger area allows the pad to wear flat rather than tapered along its length
Well summat lik that any road…[/quote]
seems to make sense
Sorry Gav for the drift 
I do!!
Ok, so its been a few weeks since I last updated the thread. I’ve just been so busy at work and had so little time to get on with it but have found a couple of hours here and there and seemily have got lots of small jobs done…
Offering the drivers seat in for the first time to check clearance for the wiring loom and hydraulic lines running past it -
Final routing of the wiring loom, rear brake line and clutch line through the cockpit -
Mounting the front dash panel -
Held in place with Velcro!!
LoL, yes you saw it here first folks, it’s a quick release dash board panel… The Velcro holds it down very nicely and when the top panel gets fixed into place its not going to move anywhere. It wont actually be taking a load other than the weight of itself. Im going to make a couple of brackets to mount behind it on the main cross beam to hold the switch panel -
Although I’ve ditched the ABS on the car for a full race set up, I’m still using the OEM ecu and code which needs to be tricked into thinking the ABS is still functional.
I’ve had to seperate the ABS ecu from the pump and mounted it to a seperate plate.
I’ve then mounted this directly onto the top of the pedal box using the existing bolts postions (it was just the best place to put it and still be able to get to it.) -
The wiring and plumbing is pretty much all done in the front now, just need to extend the n/s speed sensor wire as it 12" too short -
Oh and the 0.6mm shims have turned up to mount between the hubs and uprights to space the discs back to the centre of the caliper. I can finally mount the brake calipers up, yipee!
Looking good Gav!!
yeah really coming together now
Cheers guys, yes its coming together but i still have stacks of little jobs to do and they all seem to take hours when you think they will only take minutes…
The final front splitter has been cut out and redesigned a little, the one i have been using so far was an inch too long out the front and didnt have the 2 little tabs on the back edge to hold the final fixings on the end plates it attaches to. -
The rear wing mounting is now finished. Its gone up another 4-5" on extra little uprights off the top of the main chassis mounts, its pretty much inline with the level of the roof. I just need to get some nice nuts and bolts to hold it all in place for the final time.
I have also mounted the manifold and decat section to the car for the final time.
The manifold I have for the build is a brand new Lotus Motorsport gt3 part, were as the de-cat and back box (although still gt3) were used items. Unfortunately the back box had its arse blown out of it and being a fully welded jobbie was not really the easiest thing to cut it open to sort out. Not only that it had been heavily dis-coloured through excessive heat and generally looked shabby, time for a new one!
So, a phone call to Jim at 2bular a couple of months ago to see if he would be interested in marrying one of his new re-packables to my manifold and de-cat and off it went to him. I’ve just got it back this week (well sort of), unfortunately Jim wasnt able to weld the final 90 degree bend as it comes out the can as neither of us knew exactly where to put it, so jim sent it seperately for me to offer to the car and mark it for position. bit of messing about but I get it exactly where I want it. You’ll just have to wait a couple of days for some pics of the b/box as it came out the packaging, got offered on, marked then back in the box and away again (I forgot to take a pic). Needless to say its an absolute beauty… -
Just a quick pic I took when the rear clam and wing was on to get the feel for the look (oo-er) -
Looking pretty darned good. Thanks for write-up.
what you going to do for heat management around the exhaust and subframe?
not a lot if have to!!
what you see above is pretty much how the gt3 cars ran.
With the rear clam section cut away as it is, no boot in place, less restricted side pod openings, an open mesh engine cover and the dry sump siting higher from the under tray than the std sump the 3 naca ducts are running the air thtough with a much cleaner route to the back and onto the exhaust. Im going to suck it and see.
I may put a small deflection plate above the exhaust back box to aim the heat more toward the cut away rear clam section than up onto the inside of the clams rear deck between the wing pylons. Again Im just going to wait and see how hot eveything gets before I go willy nilly all over the place with heat sheilding for no need.