[quote=TarmacTerrorist][quote=tim_marra]hmm maybe swap the rear light and duct positions over?
[/quote]
Any reason why Tim??
The outboard holes give me a much nicer run with the ducting upto the back of the intercooler… [/quote]
i did think if the routing had something to do with it. i was only thinking of looks/style. ignore me.
It’s how the factory GT3 cars were done John. They ran fully enclosed engine covers for better aero and then cut away the rear clam like above to draw the engine bay heat away using the low pressure zone behind the car.
The very first GT3’s that had it done only had the middle concave section cut away in-between the lights. However, in the very limited time the factory had the cars in a wind tunnel they found that if they cut the section out all the way up to the lip of the top part of the clam it worked ‘much’ better 
I’ve always liked the design so I just tried to copy what the factory did… They used a much more open mesh than I’m using mind but then i have an open engine cover which meant it wasnt so important for me to have the very best airflow I could of had by using something more open.
My initial though was to use the same mesh to cover the open light sockets and paint it red to look like lights. However now it’s all going back together and I’m looking at it and I much prefer them to be open I think… I just need to clear the holes out fully of the light fixing and with the ducting in place it should look really good.
The other idea if it didn’t work so well on the intercooler was to duct them into the rear wheel arch liners/wheel wells.
I did try the lights in the outer holes Tim Just too see and I prefered the look of them in the inner ones tbh mate, makes the car look that bit wider than it is…
Oh yes, mesh is a very neat touch. Looking great. See you at Kirkby Lonsdale with it!!
Track only I’m afraid thommo… I’d be beached before I got to the end of the road!!
A few more little updates, its all pretty slow going at the minute tbh, just not enough hours in the day…
The 10" ducting is now in place for the intercooler -
Just need to tidy the inside edges of the inlet up a little -
Offering the exhaust on to see where the tie rods for the diffuser need to attach (its a full factory GT3 manifold and back box im using) -
The original plan was to put all the electrics/ecu etc inside the cabin for ease of access more than anything.
Problem I’ve been having with that idea is the 2-11 loom only seems to go where it wants to go and not where I would like it to go…
Not only does it not really sit in the cabin very well, the result would have meant it would be much harder to gain access to it all, especially if I have a pax seat in…
So everything is going back onto the bulkhead inside the engine compartment pretty much as it would in a 2-11, actually a little better laid out if I’m honest… (anything for the easy life atm, why fight it?..) -
cant wait to see once it is finished!!!
Looking good Gav
Gav will you slow down a bit mate!!
How am I supposed to keep in front with my build!!!
Looking dam good…
You just need some gear change cables!!!
You know Gav that it’s become the ‘Summer Project’ now huh! We’re all hoping to see it before it becomes the winter project again
Don’t forget to fit some monsoon tyres 
And a snorkel … 
Shame but dared say I’ll get to see it in the flesh one day
Thanks Ben, I have adjusted the title accordingly…
I do need to get a move on as well…
A few more little bits I managed to do over the weekend.
The cup for the female ATL receptacle is now in place and mounted to the rear stay, if it looks like its in at a funny angle its because it is!!
Couple of reasons, firstly the hole for the filler in the rear clam was already cut when I got it. The GT3’s used a totally different roll cage to what I’m using (8 point), so subsequently the factory cut it to suit their needs at the time, not mine… The ATL cup just wouldn’t have fit in flush with the cage i have so it could only go in one place without having to fill the hole and cut another one out (not going to happen).
Also putting in at the angle it is makes it much easier to offer the dump churn to it, sit it flush with the bodywork and it becomes difficult…
The Pilbeam GT3 rear sub frame sits 10mm higher than the std unit which makes the rear stays not fit correctly (the mounting faces are not flush to each other as they should be). I thought I was going to have to cut off the bosses and re-weld then on in the correct position however I got them to fit perfectly by swapping the left to the right and vice versa, just meant i had to cut of the tabs on the rear stays that hold the engine mount one side and the header tank the other and re-weld them on the other stay (can nothing be straight forward,…) -
Just need to pipe everything up -
why duct the rear of the cooler?
Some great work in that car, wish I had the skill and patience!
Thanks Muu.
The rear ducting is just an idea I’m playing around with atm, it will either work or it wont, simple as. Im rather hoping it will tbh as Im liking the look… It will be a case of function over form on this one though so it may have to go!
I haven’t updated for a little while although I have been plowing on with it and getting quite a few bits done. Its a bloody nightmare though, for every job I start I seem to create myself 5 more!!! It is getting there and I really want to be firing it up in the next couple of weeks (I can see the light!).
External cut out and fire extinguisher switches mounted in place -
Drive shafts given a lick of paint and installed (note to self, remember to put some oil in…). The gear cables have been ran through also -
Mocking up the air filter piping, Im trying to get it as far into the side pod as possible (thoughts?? will wet days cause issues??) -
Quick release steering wheel and boss in place (also started cutting the dash up for the new design) -
Front and rear brake lines all now installed and bled through (clutch still to do) -
Gav
The pad shim is the wrong way round…
Dave
no its the right way up… its the caliper that is upside down!!!
work that one out…