be interesting to put some witness stickers on for temps on the joints
As soon as they come out i’ll post up mate.
Bloody joints again!! Once my car is rebuilt and running (if that ever happens) I’ll most probably have to go through this pain again too but I’m going to carry on as before just to see what happens. We found that the joints were going more often when the car was running really low and leaning too much. Once we increased ride height and increased spring rate the problem seemed more under control.
Out of interest, did AT Power send you out a new dry sump gear and chain tensioner spring? If not, get on the blower to them.
Oh, and it looks like the control tyre for Time Attack next year is Pirelli. So, with that in mind what are your plans because their slicks don’t work on a lightweight Lotus!!!
That’s a pain because the plan was to run it fecking lower! I forget what the rates were 400/600 i think, scuffers recommended.
Yes, AT Power sent out the new spring, thanks for checking and its now with TDi-North.
I’d heard Pirelli might be back next year, do they not offer a soft or super soft slick? if not i’ll have to set the tyre warmers to 11!
Drive shaft angle?
I think you could be right.
Its possible that we are pushing harder and things that are tired are being found out but my fear is that we need to rethink the rear end.
JDS also mentioned changing to S2 uprights/hubs etc and i’ve resisted more so because of the faff in doing so.
Like Jamie i will keep going on this path but if it continues early next year then several sets of S1 wheels will be in the for sale section.
Someone just needs to get Geary to make a proper Honda subframe (should be pretty easy now he has started to make standard ones) and alter the mounts so that we can run straight driveshafts !
Its not the subframe dave…
Its the centre line of the wheel compared to the diff out put centre line.
Only two ways to fix it move the ride height or move the engine/gearbox
when you say move the ride height presumably you mean lower the car?
There’s a third way, but it’s really not cheap at all. One of the things I could never understand about the EP sequential was keeping the Honda inner joints. With a blank sheet of paper I would have used the biggest lo-bro type joint I could find that fitted.
I did find a company in the US that made flanges for off road trucks. This effectively gave you a stub axle that went through the wheel bearing, giving you a 6 bolt lo-bro flange on the inside face. We looked briefly at it, but haven’t needed it for the orange car so far.
Ideally you want as straight a line at standard ride height from the diff centre to the wheel centre. The more you go from 90 degrees in any plane, the more heat you generate. The straighter the better.
not cheap depends on what you’re comparing it against i.e new rear subframe or swopping over uprights or endless failures etc
certainly interested if you ever move forward with this John.
in the meantime, lowering the car, stiffer springs and vented boots??
would be good to get your take on it John
Breathers and good quality grease as a first step, I wouldn’t go straight for stiffer springs, as this compromises other areas. Next step I would be looking at the angles that you are running currently. It could be that it was just their time to fail, and no matter what you did wouldn’t stop it.
It was something like this Micro Stub Axle w/washer for 930 C.V. Joint - 16-2310 The off road boys need huge articulation, especially on the front axle, plus take massive shock loads from heavy, lumpy V8’s and low gearing, jumping over stuff.
Not cheap, as in all the parts would be one or 2 offs, which is always painful. The biggest challenge would be to sort out the inner’s to fit into the Honda box/extension shaft. The Audi box already had the inners from the factory. So far we’ve not needed to go to this step yet.
If I was in you shoes I would be looking at what options you have for an S2 type set up. It gives you the better/larger outboard joint, much better bearings, loads of choice on cheaper/lighter wheels due to better PCD options, and EP do some different drop uprights to help with driveshaft angles. Plus you have all the spares wheels, shafts, uprights to sell on. Downside is you may need new brake bells and mounts, speed sensors and that you are moving away from originality even further. I suspect that’s the last bit isn’t too high on your list of priorities!!
John has very much the same opinion as me. Driveshaft angle on high powered cars is critical. I’ve gone the route he’s mention actually with gt uprights and large gkn motorsport
Inners direct to my audi output flanges. I’ve put the engine/box as far back as possible which in some cases is like 2-3" further back than most Honda/audi install
Ok, thanks for that, sort of confirms the plan i mentioned before 
I try to keep it as original as possible, honest! change out the roof and its a well looked after Autobytel car 
Cheers, please keep the advice coming 
^^ this
So glad someone else had that thought the same !
I would also make sure that your using genuine Honda joints … Really it makes a difference In my experience anyhow
What I meant was, with the subframe modified, you could move the engine/gearbox further back in the bay and straighten up the shafts.
Don’t think it’s the subframe dave, it’s more where the end of the gearbox casing clears the alloy leg that limits how far back you can position the drivetrain. Now the quaife can be notched to get 10mm, but nothing more major than that.
Ideally you want a box with a larger offset from input centre to drive shaft centre, now I think the EP one pushes the joints 20mm further back