Paul did a great job on my car, but he refused to paint the first rear clam I bought from here as it had loads of previous damage (even though I bought it along with the front clam and roof as ‘perfect’). He is such a perfectionist, your car will look amazing.
[quote=designer]Paul did a great job on my car, but he refused to paint the first rear clam I bought from here as it had loads of previous damage (even though I bought it along with the front clam and roof as ‘perfect’). He is such a perfectionist, your car will look amazing.
The front clam brackets have come back from the fab shop today, we were unsure whether we would get both bends onto the bracket without the need of welding it, just got them both in.
Brackets and spreader plates -
Offered into position, the posts for the side Aero Catches will bolt onto these-
I was going to use the same dry sump tank Will is using and was going to steal his idea of cutting it to fit the roll cage rear stays. Simple fact is it’s just not going to fit with me using the oem bulkhead, by the time I’ve paid someone to cut and weld it just wasn’t worth the hassle for it still not to fit right…
Instead I will be using a 2-11 dry sump tank which will go in a lot easier and not require any mods to the tank. It also places the tank right next to the pump which will have the benefit of keeping the pipe runs as short as possible.
2-11 dry sump oil tank -
Had to cut my lovely bulk head Careful, careful… -
Oil tank offered into place -
Looking to run an oil cooler in the side pod below the oil tank -
This is the 10" ducting i will be looking to use for the roof scoop to intercooler, its not so springy as the other stuff you saw in the pics previously which should make it easier to shape how I want it -
There is usually a dense foam insert that goes in there to fill the void (one either side), it is the locating lug for it and then they get bonded back to the chassis.
I image they are in there to help prevent ‘wheel over wheel’ incidents if the bodywork gets damaged/hit in that area by another car.
They should have been inserted before the sill was bonded on, however its also the place where you would attach air jacks. i dont have any air jacks but it is something for the future so I thought Id leave them out ready for that day instead of having to butcher the work I’ve already done to get them in.
[quote=TarmacTerrorist]This is the 10" ducting i will be looking to use for the roof scoop to intercooler, its not so springy as the other stuff you saw in the pics previously which should make it easier to shape how I want it -
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I’ve heard of using smoke testing for aerodynamics, but not sure it’ll work for intake cooling so well…
I think you should stick to tried and tested methods rather than these crazy ‘Regal’ experiments mate.
I picked up the oil rad from the fab shop earlier with a newly welded bracket, actually i have used the old one that was there to hold the air-con pipes (which rather conveniently was made from ali and had all the right holes in it…)
Marked for position -
Bracket cut down in size and welded to the rad. -
Offered back in to place -
I will need 3x 25mm spacers machining to lift the rad up as high as possible into the airflow without fouling the tank. I could lift the tank higher but it somewhat defeats the object of taking the weight from the bottom of the engine and placing it higher up…
Offering up all the rest of the bits and pieces that will need to occupy the same corner as the dry sump tank, just making sure everything fits ok and has enough room to do what it needs to do. I thought I might have to move the filler spout on the oil tank to allow passage for the main fuel filler neck but it’s all looking good with plenty of room.
Only thing I am going to do is weld another fitting on the back of the oil tank up next to the dip stick for the main return feed, basically so it comes up off the cooler and into the tank with a nice short and easy pipe run -
The front clam is all ready for the paint shop and I’ve managed to get a start on the rear.
Again just offering everything up to make sure there is nothing blatantly obvious that will cause bother, all looking good -
Must be the day for ‘wings’…
I’m using 2-11 wing mounting pylons which with the 2-11 wing line up perfectly with the mounting points on the rear sub frame, it’s nice when it all goes to plan -
Using the wing to line up and mark the hole positions I need to cut out of the rear clam to allow the pylons through.
The pylons will also be holding the main part of the rear clam to them. Brackets, brackets and more brackets…