I was talking to one of my brothers equally nutty enduro mates last night and he works part time as a mechanic on a prodrive scooby doo thing.
Turbo change from bonnet up glowing hot to engine on again 12 mins!!!
Back on topic - he suggested using this stuff Clickety Click to improve the effeiciency of cooling.
Not a fix for overheating but looks like a sensible move for all K’s regardless
Whaddya reckon?
from Demon Theives click here to feel your belt slacken
Wasn’t this sort of stuff discussed before? Try a search.
Ian
yes matey thanks old thread
It was b4 my time on here and no clear verdict just a mention
Am gunna get some locally if I can or its nearly �8 just to deliver it from ‘the theives’ (bloody stuff only cost �11 )
It’s one of those things… it’s not like we live in a hot country, so if the water temperature is getting hot then it points to another problem.
The thermostat regulates the temperature anyway… no ?
Isn’t this just another fad
I’m no expert in fluid mechanics et all, but being a bit of an old f@rt I remember this water wetting issue goes back years, decades even, as that is one of the properties of any anti freeze product.
The boy scout mechanics course* from the early seventies( ) always said to make sure coolant hoses etc were good n tight when putting in anti freeze for the winter, due to it’s ‘searching’ properties i.e. ‘it makes the water wetter’
So to me this ‘new’ stuff is just a bit of marketing bollox
All IMHO of course
Tim.
Dib dib dib.
\
I had not seen it b4 and this chappie was raving about it/uses it in Rally cars with a positive temperature reducing effect.
It’s 15 quid so no great shakes if it makes no difference.
I used to run this in a E-type that I raced about 5 years ago, it was the only way to keep it from boiling after 30 minutes on track, to be honest I believe it made about a 5-7 degree temperature difference (and with the size of the cooling system required two bottles of the stuff) but that was all that was needed to make the difference from boil and not and was a LOT cheaper than fitting the high flow water pumps other people ran.
It’s 15 quid so no great shakes if it makes no difference.
The Elise/Exige really doesn’t need it, the thermostat is the main regulator there. You can have too much cooling effect if you want it.
It may have a bad effect, in the case it gells with your existing coolant. Not all mix, you know? and if it’s not the same base they gel out and plug the system.
So, not obvious, you’d have to make sure they’re compatible.
For ex. I’m using Havoline OAT (the fluorescent pink one), doesn’t mix with either the original fluorescent yellow or blue or green, but it’s much better than any of those and inhibits any corrosion in the system.
But I know not to mix
Uldis, I was just looking at where to get OAT from and found this:-
Under the coolant information links section.
It mentions water wetter early on and then OAT and HOAT a little further on.
Excellent tech link!
OAT did become the factory-installed coolant from Lotus, just check the S2’s.
And I have to say that even though I flushed the system well it did create some brown crud when I just switched.
But then the flushing I did was thorough (with engine on until the fa came in and let it cool, flush and again - twice) and the little brown crud in the tank I thought was due to some minimal amount of old coolant in the system.
I just cleaned the tank with a rag inside and it never appeared again.
It’s been bright fluorescent pink even since. and very stable.
Where originally my coolant level varied, after the rebuild it’s always at the same point.
Where do you get yours from Uldis?
Water Wetter is used in the States no so much because it is a more effective coolant, but because glycol-based coolant is illegal on many race tracks.
US$7 treats 4 gallons, so that’s not too bad. One box of it is a lifetime supply for two people.
Do a google on “regulations illegal water wetter glycol” and you’ll see a lot of auto/motobike racing regulations-related results…
I thought this quote was interesting for those who are concerned about Rover K HGF’s:
"People who have used it can’t tell any difference under normal driving conditions, but it does make a difference if the problem is that hot spots in the cooling system are causing localized boiling.
Under normal street use you will not see any change because the thermostat is regulating the temp. It’s only when you exceed the capacity of your system and the thermostat is all the way open that the wetting agent will have an effect. The wetting agent is supposed to improve heat transfer by reducing surface tension. This is important near the head where the coolant my locally boil. The little gas bubbles however impede heat transfer, which in turn may lead to knocking and reduced engine performance…"
Potentially a cheaper, less effort solution than doing the remote thermostat thingy!
Where do you get yours from Uldis?
From a Rover dealer at the time, but I know Alfa/Fiat, Renault sell them as well.
and…
Potentially a cheaper, less effort solution than doing the remote thermostat thingy!
Hmmm, don’t count on that, HGF doesn’t come from localized hotspots, but from an inherent designfault, a delay in sensing and reacting to the temperature of the engine because the thermostat is on the input to it, after a very long path to and from the radiator.
Different things, the normal thermostat was desgned for a front engined car, where the radiator was just inches from the engine.
My guess is if you were going to have a HGF, you’ll still have it even with Watter Wetter.
Excellent tech link!
Two things I got from that:
1.Water Wetter has limited to no benefit in a system using a commercial coolant – it’s simply adding more of something already present in sufficient quantity.
2.Makeup Water. [Tip from Prestone and consistent with other manufacturers’ recommendations] We would consider the order of preference for water to be as follows:
1st choice: Type IV water- Both demineralized & Deionized.
Next choice: Distilled water
Next choice: Bottled water (like the type at a grocery store)
Last choice: Tap water
Note that a prevalent urban legend cautions against “distilled water as too aggressive”; in a coolant mixture this is very wrong-headed.
Naaah, first choice: Tequila!
When I used to compete, (before I got fat, old and poor) I was sponsored by silkolene, and I said to their man that I was running a bit hot. NExt event he came with a small black bottle and a syringe, and put some green juice in the system. After 10 mins all the liquid looked like Lenor fabric softener, but the temp was reduced by 10 degrees. He said that they developed it for some land speed bike attempt, but they weren’t allowed to sell it. I’m sure they must have marketed it in the end, as its soo bloody good. Being a child as I am, I was also impressed how it was green, but made the water go blue!!! AMAZING!!!
mhaney
Especially after reading the link that Azrael provided, i’d say this stuff is really only an advantage if you are running with only water and no antifreeze mix.
But if you do give it a go, let us know the results eh…
Where do you get yours from Uldis?
Azrael
I got it from a Rover Dealer… but now that you won’t find one of them anywhere, either Lotus or perhaps get the Texaco?havoline stuff.
Its used in MGF’s and probably all the other Rovers.
Thanks Rox’
Who was it that posted a little while back saying that water alone (with a corrosion inhibitor in) was a better coolant than any antifreeze mix? The article would seem to suggest otherwise due to the ‘water wetting’ agents in most antifreeze/coolants.
mhaney
Especially after reading the link that Azrael provided, i’d say this stuff is really only an advantage if you are running with only water and no antifreeze mix.
But if you do give it a go, let us know the results eh…
Will do - going to wait while summer