I trawled the archives but found it difficult getting a definitive answer to certain upgrades on the Exige, so if someone could be more succinct it would help.
Will be upgrading the engine (when funds allow - next year?) to give about 300bhp and intend to do a few track days each year too. So I need to ensure the car has the right equipment for the job:
Better brakes. When the standard drilled ones are no good I’d like to get some ally belled ones with grooved rotors. Considering that the Elise Parts ones aren’t rated too high for track work, what is? The AP ones, but what spec, do they bolt straight on, do you need new pistons, etc
I want the ability to stop quickly and in a controlled manner as that is one area that helps me lap quicker.
Currently have LSS suspension which is suprisingly ok. Better than my old S2 IMHO, however I assume Nitrons are the way to go?
Toe links etc. Running more bhp, flatter cornering, quicker stopping will have an effect upon suspension stressing. Do I need to upgrade any bits or will standard Exige stuff be ok?
While waiting for funds for the new engine I want to make sure I get about 200bhp from the VHPD. I’ll be putting it on a Dyno in November (Aldon Automotive - see thread on MLOC if you want to join us) but anticipating no where near the 190 mark (I had problems pulling away from a 135 S2 Elise at Llandow). What can I do myself to get to 200bhp, and what can others (DVA) do to get me there at reasonable cost?
Does a front splitter (Edwards or similar) have that much of a benefit?
I’ll be doing a mini service after Mallory (oil change), so any recommendations to the filter and oil or will the standard Rover/Lotus one and Magnatec (or similar) do?
Any other recommendations to improve the car? This will be a keeper so looking to go for future proof kit rather than cheap but short term solutions.
Sorry this is so long but I thought I’d ask the experts so I can plan where I need to take the car and what to budget.
I trawled the archives but found it difficult getting a definitive answer to certain upgrades on the Exige, so if someone could be more succinct it would help.
Will be upgrading the engine (when funds allow - next year?) to give about 300bhp and intend to do a few track days each year too. So I need to ensure the car has the right equipment for the job:
Better brakes. When the standard drilled ones are no good I’d like to get some ally belled ones with grooved rotors. Considering that the Elise Parts ones aren’t rated too high for track work, what is? The AP ones, but what spec, do they bolt straight on, do you need new pistons, etc
I want the ability to stop quickly and in a controlled manner as that is one area that helps me lap quicker.
Currently have LSS suspension which is suprisingly ok. Better than my old S2 IMHO, however I assume Nitrons are the way to go?
Toe links etc. Running more bhp, flatter cornering, quicker stopping will have an effect upon suspension stressing. Do I need to upgrade any bits or will standard Exige stuff be ok?
While waiting for funds for the new engine I want to make sure I get about 200bhp from the VHPD. I’ll be putting it on a Dyno in November (Aldon Automotive - see thread on MLOC if you want to join us) but anticipating no where near the 190 mark (I had problems pulling away from a 135 S2 Elise at Llandow). What can I do myself to get to 200bhp, and what can others (DVA) do to get me there at reasonable cost?
Does a front splitter (Edwards or similar) have that much of a benefit?
I’ll be doing a mini service after Mallory (oil change), so any recommendations to the filter and oil or will the standard Rover/Lotus one and Magnatec (or similar) do?
Any other recommendations to improve the car? This will be a keeper so looking to go for future proof kit rather than cheap but short term solutions.
Sorry this is so long but I thought I’d ask the experts so I can plan where I need to take the car and what to budget.
Cheers guys
If you are aiming for 300bhp then o for the AP rotors Geary does (the ally belled ones won’t cut it). They work with the standard calipers which are perfectly up to the job.
LSS is complete rubbish and you will really need something better with 300bhp. Go for the single way Nitrons with at least 400/550 springs.
Buy some Geary toelinks - the standard ones are the same as the standard Elise ones and not worth the risk.
200bhp is pushing it from VHPD without serious work. Get yourself an Emerald ECU and verniers and get the thing timed and mapped properly. You shouldn’t have a problem selling an Emerald ECY for good money when you change the engine.
Largely cosmetic, especially the plastic ones which will flex when any pressure is on them (The flip side of this is that they will be robust on the road).
I’m sure there will be various opinions on this. Whatever oil/filter you use change the oil regulary and by that I mean every 3-3.5K miles. The VHPD massively overfuels which contaminates the oil very quickly. Ive been using tricky synthetic stuff from Opie oils recently and its excellent.
Agree with above, except for the toelinks.
I like better the ones from TADTS
Ah, also on the engine side, without dissassembling it there’s one thing that should be done, before it knackers the rest: remote thermostat.
Elise parts and QED make one.
Want some free horsies? get the intake trunking somehow to suck cold air from the left scoop. (and of course I would assume you have ditched the intake resonator valve)
For best results with the Emerald, get a freer flowing exhaust. Plenty of choices: Powerspeed, Eliseparts, Edwards, etc.
Can’t find any mention of AP rotors on Eliseparts.
I already have a remote stat, and cold air induction. Where’s the intake resonator valve?
Exhaust is the Janspeed supersport.
The AP rotors are very new so not on the site yet. The intake resonator valve sits in the induction truncking and looks like a massive throttle body. I would be suprised if your car still has it.
The janspeed is tat IMHO. If you plan to go the Honda route remember that they are quite loud so if you get a new zorst make sure it will be up to the job.
Many people using their cars on track go for harnesses, because they hold you in position more securely, which is less tiring, and of course you get a better feel for when the car is sliding…
(with inertia reels, you can get confused between when your ass is sliding and when the tyres are !!!)
Many people using their cars on track go for harnesses, because they hold you in position more securely, which is less tiring, and of course you get a better feel for when the car is sliding…
(with inertia reels, you can get confused between when your ass is sliding and when the tyres are !!!)
I may be the only one still using the inertia belts.
Maybe I should try the harnesses and be a couple seconds quicker?
But seriously, harness are a good idea if you’re on the small/light framed size (6’2", 15st = I don’t move)
Actually, what I found with the car is that you need to get a feeling for when it’s going to slide. Once it’s sliding, it’s likely to be late to react…
I have got harnesses.
No resonator (ta Brendan) as it’s in a bag of bits I’ve got (I thought it was a very large OEM throttle body lol).
Not sure about the Edwards splitter. It’s in two parts with a join in the middle which seemed to not meet particularly well. Also the plastic bolts sheared off and one side fell off. Not mine, but someone else I know who had one on the last MLOC run. If it’s that flimsy, can it really give downforce?
I also have braided hoses and Pagids (well not on the front anymore - SBS now - as I wore them down to the rivets at Llandow lol).
Do I need a baffled sump? Don’t want the engine to get starved of oil. It will take a year to save the cash for an new engine, so don’t want any early suprises.
Not sure if it’s got an oil catch tank either. Got one ally pot with head breather pipes going in, but it looks like a charcoal filter housing Brendan, any idea?