hmmm, some interesting info there.
Mine is a 2001 Y reg exige with the 192 upgrade and decat eliseparts exhaust. So i cant disconnect the plug? Is it possible to do it on an s1 elise? If it is possible, how do i do it?
For a description of what happens when you disconnect on a VHPD with the later map read this very recent thread . Lots of popping and banging if that rings yer bell but also some other not so handy features
Well I had a play with the ecu and found that if I increased the fuel it stop the pops and bangs I think it was just running to rich!!!? I tried going the other way and knocked the number down by to and I think it has increased the pops a little. Can anyway post up there map for me to comapare the 0 line?
Thanks
dont have an emerald, i use a DTA, but i guess the principal is the same.
on zero throttle anything above 2500rpm i have zero fuel.
Drew
Drew what does that do? is that top help with eccon?
I have noticed if I reduce the fueling on my car it pops and bangs louder!
Interestingly, I just sorted my car and found that a pipe had fallen off where I’d removed the IACV so the engine was taking in as much air as it could so it was a very lean mix!
This meant it was popping and bangine like nothing before! Proper BIG backfires, like a gunshot! So it would seem running with little fuel would increase the effect… I guess it’s the whole leaner mix explodes with a bigger force…
Drew what does that do? is that top help with eccon?
I have noticed if I reduce the fueling on my car it pops and bangs louder!
yeah mine does pop and bang a lot off throttle. i didnt put the figures in myself its how it was mapped.
i think you get more engine braking with 0 fuel in there, apart from that i dont know.
Drew
Took the car out for a spin last night in the dark first time in ages (summer nights) and I asked my mate to take it up the road so I could hear what it sounded like out side the car. Everytime it he back off under 3k it pops and bangs like made and spits flames. When he pulled up I said blip the throttle to 2,500rpm and as it revs came down it was shooting blue flames from the exhaust! I now have allot less fuel set on the over run than emerald set it! So must be using less fuel as well!
but surely, flames from the exhaust can only stem from unburnt fuel going through the engine, and if you cut down the amount of fuel to 0, then there woldn’t be any…
Now I’m getting
From having a play with my emerald all I can say is there is a very fine line to having to much fuel on the over run.
My standard emereld setting made the car pop a bit. I triend increasing the fuel and it hardly popped at all.
I decreased the fuel and it now pops like mad esp under 2,500 rpm!!! Not tried running 0 fuel yet might try later.
Sounds right actually… 0 fuel with be the same as full cutoff on the overrun
But a much leaner mix on the overrun will burn much faster and hotter! So by reducing the fuel at load site 0 you’re leaning off the mix going into the exhaust
Have you got a cat? And what exhaust?
You won’t have a cat much longer if you have and unless you have a stright through exhaust it’ll be straight through pretty soon
Lol no cat, An I have a repackable stainless exhaust, u can uscrew the end and remove or replace the baffles. I have removed most of mine hehe
I wouldn’t turn the overrun fueling down to much guys as it cools the piston crowns and exhaust valves, especially on overlap. And this is a good thing. If the exhaust valve stems get to hot the heads drop off and this (as you may have guessed) is not a good thing!!
Sean…
Sean any chance seeing what your fuel setting are on the 0 table.
Thanks
J
i drove my car quite hard last night and after a pretty ahem high speed run, i stopped to pay a toll over a bridge, upon accelerating hard through 1st and 2nd i quickly went into 3rd when Pop-wooossh!! I got an audible crackle-pop and a flickering flame that i could clearly see in my rear view! I pulled over to make sure it had not melted my clamshell!!! So the theory should be…
S1 exige + 192 upgrade + eliseparts exhaust + decat + optimax + full rev range + fast shifting = Pop - FLAAAME
Heh heh, well I’ve just got back from a day at Brands GP (what a top circuit the full GP is!!!), same, gutted cat, eliseparts exhaust, emerlad on standard mapping, no flames but apparently popping and banging can be heard by all in the pits and easily by drivers 100yeards behind
Come on I would love to see all what fuel you are all runing in your O table!!!
RemarkLima can we see your table??? I have not seen the standard map for the exige for an emerald
Hi all. My first post, but I have been reading intently over the last 6 months… I have S1 177Bhp… went in for A service 33k miles 3 weeks ago… vehicle returned to me and stated to have had recall work done (‘misfire due to speed sensor, speed sensor reconnected + reprogramme ECM’). Took car out day of return to me & found that engine would cut @ 5500 - 6000rpm - informed garage of same with little comment from them. Left car two days and ran again with no real problems… Vehicle did run better (smoother at low revs without need to dip clutch in second etc on small roundabouts and the like (?)) for approx. 300 miles. Then noticed that the old characteristics of the car began to re-appear e.g. misfire and hesitation. Yesterday was the final straw when the vehicle stalled at T-Junction and ignition will not engage at all (?) - Possibly not related but can someone diagnose? Speaking with garage that carried our the ‘recall’ work but they appear reluctant to accept my claims of the car not really running correctly since its return to me. Furthermore, the housing to the ECM etc had not been re-connected etc and I just wonder if the job could of been signed off prior completion (?)
I never cured my 5500rpm glitch and IMHO its bloody dangerous. Couple of times it happened to me when overtaking and that REALLY is not wanted. I changed my ECU for an Emerald which is a bit drastic but did the job.
Donet he Same as Chris… Just couldbe arsed in the end…
That said, it’s either the sensor or the wiring to the ECU… I wonder if you can ask for the ECU to be downgraded? Or just have the software for the misfire removed?
Also the diagnostics tool that’ll plug into the ECU should tell you if it’s an actual misfire or a sensor issue… Good luck!
My similar probs at Croft were indeed related to the wheel sensor or more specifically the wire that connects to it which had abraded and failed. All running fine now fingers crossed.