Should be there hopefully. You going?.
I would want to see all 4 in there if it was mine.
P.S did i see your name down on the seloc Devon run on the 16th ???
Seeing as I dont have a rivet gun what sizes are the nut/bolts to use instead of rivets? It would be easier to use 2 rivets & 2 bolts as its to far to travel to back to the garage who fitted/cocked it up.
On the picture above you can see 2 rivets holding the bracket to the frame. I assume that all 4 holes should be riveted as on mine that were installed last week only 2 of the holes have been riveted. Has it been done wrong?. (eliseparts version)
I would say you must definitely use all four holes - mine have, the picture above is just a bad angle to show all four.
Take it back and ask that they do it properly
Exiges have captive nuts already in the subframe ready for the brackets so it makes sense to use those
Might sound a stupid question - but where exactly are the captive nuts?
Just where they should be for the toe link bracket … assuming you have the right bracket
Wow just been out to fit some bolts in the missing holes and peeled back the heat shielding to find that the passenger side only had 1 rivet holding the plate on. Fitted the bolts so all the holes are now secure, managed to get to the furthest holes by sticking the nuts to a flat bladed screwdriver with double sided tape and feeding it in the frame.
Sounds like the garage did a bad job on this one
Should be there hopefully. You going?.
Quote:I would want to see all 4 in there if it was mine.
P.S did i see your name down on the seloc Devon run on the 16th ???
I hope to be able to make it, cant see any reason why not at the mo.
Exiges have captive nuts already in the subframe ready for the brackets so it makes sense to use those
Might sound a stupid question - but where exactly are the captive nuts?
Just where they should be for the toe link bracket … assuming you have the right bracket
Let me rephrase that …
My Exige had captive nuts in the subframe
How much is Andy’s kit?
Significantly less than the Lotus Motorsport kit it is based on (i.e. I can’t rightly remember).
Although Andy has a real job so you’ll probably need to ask him nicely.Ian
Sorry - I’m not selling Toe link kits - too busy and I’ll just let you down at moment but someone else may be able to sort you out soon
I am confused! Who wants a toe link kit?
I am going to work to the machinery shop tomorrow (building my steering column). If I find some time I could make a toe link kit.
George we shall call you the new Mr Dovey. It’s how he got started.
Ian
Wow just been out to fit some bolts in the missing holes and peeled back the heat shielding to find that the passenger side only had 1 rivet holding the plate on. Fitted the bolts so all the holes are now secure, managed to get to the furthest holes by sticking the nuts to a flat bladed screwdriver with double sided tape and feeding it in the frame.
So the holes were already there then and you didn’t have any captive nuts as Andy appears to have?
You must name the “specialist” - the quality of the work sounds appalling…
Might sound a stupid question - but where exactly are the captive nuts?
Just where they should be for the toe link bracket … assuming you have the right bracket
Let me rephrase that …
My Exige had captive nuts in the subframe
I must have the lightweight racing variant of the subframe then
The holes/captive nuts were already there but I didnt have the correct size bolts and they didnt line up exactly so I used slightly smaller bolts and a nut on the back. Steve Williams carried out the work and I haven’t spoken to them as I have fixed it all myself now.
Wow just been out to fit some bolts in the missing holes and peeled back the heat shielding to find that the passenger side only had 1 rivet holding the plate on. Fitted the bolts so all the holes are now secure, managed to get to the furthest holes by sticking the nuts to a flat bladed screwdriver with double sided tape and feeding it in the frame.
So the holes were already there then and you didn’t have any captive nuts as Andy appears to have?
You must name the “specialist” - the quality of the work sounds appalling…
Personally, wouldn�t worry too much about these support brackets. In the end of the day, they are made by a bended 1 0r 1.5 mm stainless steel plate and are attached to the subframe with four rivets or 4 M5 stainless steel bolts (IIRC). I think they are there providing something more like heat insulation. When a 18 mm O/D stainless steel bar bends, I don�t think there is much this plate can do. Then again, if there was chance this bolt could shear (of course I am talking for regular driving conditions and not an accident situation), I am sure that there must exist some deflection on it (before it shears), which consequently should loosen the rivets.
On the other hand, if this �double shear bracket� was necessary where a rose joint is installed, why isn�t there one at the other end (where it bolts to the steel hub)? Or why isn�t there one at the Zero Bump Steering Arm Kit, from EliseParts (I am referring to this shop as it is the only one which sells this kit AFAIK)?
This is just my thoughts regarding this �double shear bracket�, without being 100% sure for any of the above! But it could become an interesting discussion if an experienced structural engineer helped us with his respectable opinion.
On the picture above you can see 2 rivets holding the bracket to the frame. I assume that all 4 holes should be riveted as on mine that were installed last week only 2 of the holes have been riveted. Has it been done wrong?. (eliseparts version)
A better picture showing all 4 rivets:
[image]http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d121/stevegreen101/DSC04886.jpg[/image]
![http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d121/stevegreen101/DSC04886.jpg[/image]](http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d121/stevegreen101/DSC04886.jpg%5B/image%5D){kind=link}
Steve Williams carried out the work and I haven’t spoken to them as I have fixed it all myself now.
i hope you are going to let them know though. Maybe there’s someone in the workshop that needs putting right!
Do both these kits have left and right threaded uni ball joints so they can be adjusted on the car.
Anyone want to post the dimensions and uni ball spec of the kit as well, was thinking about making my own up
Another question. Is there any reason why you cannot drill and tap holes and use S/S pins to hold the cover on as opposed to rivets ?
I haven’t looked to see how thick the metal is that the rivets go into, but i would have thought it would be to thin to tap a thread in it.