Toe links - which kit recommended

Hi folks

I have an S2 111s that I use regularly on the track - nitrons and OZs on 048s. After the last few TD’s, I had my service at Steve Williams who pointed out that there was just the earliest hint of play in the passenger rear toe link. Obviously I need to keep a careful eye on this, but I am reluctant to replace with the standard toe link kit.

In addition, folks have given mixed (some good, some bad) feedback on the uniball toelink kit from eliseparts.

Question is this: what options are there for a car that is tracked regularly, that will do the job without fear of failure.

Eliseparts?
TADTS
What others - iirc someone on exiges does a toelink kit that is highly regarded.

Many thanks for any advice on this. To be honest I hadn’t given toelinks a second’s thought until now.

Cheers
Andrew

TADTS, because the kit includes rubber boots and both rivets AND SS screws (Elise parts obviouly charges extra for boots and only includes rivets, which many regard as not the best option).

Have a word with Maddog Andrew - there are other options

Have a word with Maddog Andrew - there are other options

what’s wrong about posting those options here?

I spoke to Junks about this on Saturday, AndyD sells them
they are the same as the ones SeanB uses on his car now. after he bent the last ones and they look like they are more than up for the job

Elise parts obviouly charges extra for boots and only includes rivets, which many regard as not the best option).

Uldis - which bits are rivetted only on the Eliseparts kit and not on TADTS kits?

Not riveted, but when you attach the subframe bracket, they need to be held on to the subframe with something, and the Eeliseparts kit included rivets, the TADTS gives you also SS bolts, so you can choose.
Top quality as well

Thanks guys - I am happy to explore all options.

One thing you have to be careful about (according to Andy D) is that the toe links aren’t too strong. You could end up transmitting the force of a crash through to something much more expensive to repair/replace than the toe links.

Have a word with Maddog Andrew - there are other options

what’s wrong about posting those options here?

Nothing, I couldn’t remember who it was that’s all lol!

Not riveted, but when you attach the subframe bracket, they need to be held on to the subframe with something, and the Eeliseparts kit included rivets, the TADTS gives you also SS bolts, so you can choose.
Top quality as well

I imagine its because the box section they attach to is semi closed and has quite restricted access - only an issue if you are DIYing . Do the brackets take that much of a loading?

[image]http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d121/stevegreen101/DSC04693.jpg[/image]

Exiges have captive nuts already in the subframe ready for the brackets so it makes sense to use those

Not riveted, but when you attach the subframe bracket, they need to be held on to the subframe with something, and the Eeliseparts kit included rivets, the TADTS gives you also SS bolts, so you can choose.
Top quality as well

I imagine its because the box section they attach to is semi closed and has quite restricted access - only an issue if you are DIYing . Do the brackets take that much of a loading?

Yes, that’s why they’re there, to take the load of the other side of the bolt and put it in double sear.

The problem I see with rivets is that they are normal steel, not stainless (AFAIK they don’t even make SS rivets) and therefore after a while they will rust down there and the strength of the bracket will be gone.
BTW in that picture it appears to be a galvanized bracket, bolt and normal rivets.
The TADTS bracket, bolt and bolts are all SS.

Exiges have captive nuts already in the subframe ready for the brackets so it makes sense to use those

Might sound a stupid question - but where exactly are the captive nuts?

The problem I see with rivets is that they are normal steel, not stainless (AFAIK they don’t even make SS rivets) and therefore after a while they will rust down there and the strength of the bracket will be gone.

They look like standard aluminium heads to me - the shafts might well be steel, but from experience on my old Landrover, rivets generally don’t fail that often, but I do take your point regarding stainless steel.


BTW in that picture it appears to be a galvanized bracket, bolt and normal rivets. The TADTS bracket, bolt and bolts are all SS.

Was under there last night and both look almost as good as when they were new - 2 years ago. I don’t thnk either are galvanised, maybe some other plating process…

Again, stainless will outlast but but are talking 20+ years vs 8-12 years.

Might sound a stupid question - but where exactly are the captive nuts?

Guantanamo Bay?

On a serious note, is there much other difference between the TADTS kit and the eliseparts one other than the stainless bolts?

How much is Andy’s kit?

How much is Andy’s kit?

Significantly less than the Lotus Motorsport kit it is based on (i.e. I can’t rightly remember).

Although Andy has a real job so you’ll probably need to ask him nicely.

Ian

On the picture above you can see 2 rivets holding the bracket to the frame. I assume that all 4 holes should be riveted as on mine that were installed last week only 2 of the holes have been riveted. Has it been done wrong?. (eliseparts version)

I would want to see all 4 in there if it was mine.

P.S did i see your name down on the seloc Devon run on the 16th ???

On the picture above you can see 2 rivets holding the bracket to the frame. I assume that all 4 holes should be riveted as on mine that were installed last week only 2 of the holes have been riveted. Has it been done wrong?. (eliseparts version)

I would say you must definitely use all four holes - mine have, the picture above is just a bad angle to show all four.

Take it back and ask that they do it properly