Tips on replacing spot lamps please

The Oily Bits S1 Specific Topics
1

I have some replacement spot lamps from a very kind fellow Exiger.

Does anybody have any tips on the easiest way to carry out the replacement?

I seem to remember there’s a method that requires hands the size of a 5 year old, another that requires dismantling the whole front of the car and a nice inbetween one.

I don’t really want to take the splitter off just to discover that it’s not going to help. All suggestions welcome.

Ian

2

Hi IDG, I don’t think you need to take the spliter off. Its a mater of taking the grill out, putting the lamp in, twisting it as you go and carefully manipulating the black plastic plate.

3

Thanks. If the weeather breaks tomorrow I’ll give it a go.

Ian

4

You need to have access to the three plastic bolts first, and one of them is covered by the plastic half-moon cover on the outside.
You need to guess where the screw is and drill a hole in it to take the old ones out.
Then like he said, coherce the new one in and use the hole to put in the screw again.

5

Hmm? One lamp out. Lotus had kindly already drilled the hole you talk about to get to the screw (best done last so it can be taken out at an angle). I then spun the lamp around to ease it out of the bracket.

However, upon removing the lamp you then need to disconnect the lead. Removing the rubber bung the lead goes through was easy enough. Removing the plug was also straightforward. THE PROBLEM I NOW HAVE, IS PLUGING THE LAMP BACK IN! The other end of the plug is on the other side of the 5cm hole and the connector doesn’t want to pull out. So, how do I get back there to connect it???! I’ve tried pulling it through but that doesn’t seem to want to happen.

Pics to follow.

Ian

6

Here’s the spot in place, with the ‘half moon’ as Uldis calls it) on the left and the hole in it to reach the third retaining nut (plastic and naff).

[image]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v494/IDG/Exiges/Spot1.jpg[/image]

Here’s the spot missing with the hole I am trying to get behind, where the connector is:

[image]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v494/IDG/Exiges/Spot2.jpg[/image]

Note the freshly Hammerited bracket.

So, can I get back there by just removing the splitter?

Ian

7

Ooo, now that�s a problem! I can only suggest that maybe if you could find either a pair of long nose pliers to grip the plug, or, ultimately those things you see in �1 shops, you know those long spring like things with a pull push button on one end and 4 sprung legs that pop out and grip the other. Now Hampshire is a big county but seeing a B&C plate I�m thinking that Blackbushe market may be the best and closest port of call for one of those spring things. Failing that, I think it may be a splitter off job. I have never taken the splitter off but I was told once that to do the spots it should be removed. Hope that helps!?

8

Have no idea Ian.
Afraid can’t get the picture.
But if it’s the electrical connector, can you hook it and pull it with a wire hanger?

Otherwise it’s a splitter off job, and that’s no problem unless your two bolts that hold the front of the wheel arches are rusty.
Change them for alloy now that you’re there.

9

I’m quite happy to take the splitter off, as long as I know I can definately get to the connector behind that hole. Can I?

Why on earth didn’t Lotus make the lead long enough to come through the blooming hole!

Ian

10

I’m quite happy to take the splitter off, as long as I know I can definately get to the connector behind that hole. Can I?

Why on earth didn’t Lotus make the lead long enough to come through the blooming hole!

Ian

It’s an arrangement with the dealers - make it difficult for the d-i-y owners

11

Ian I am pretty sure you can get all the access you need to reconnect that plug with the wheel arch liner removed. I am going to be near my car in the next couple of hours, and its half dismantled so I will have a look and confirm.

Sean…

12

Hmm? One lamp out. Lotus had kindly already drilled the hole you talk about to get to the screw (best done last so it can be taken out at an angle). I then spun the lamp around to ease it out of the bracket.

However, upon removing the lamp you then need to disconnect the lead. Removing the rubber bung the lead goes through was easy enough. Removing the plug was also straightforward. THE PROBLEM I NOW HAVE, IS PLUGING THE LAMP BACK IN! The other end of the plug is on the other side of the 5cm hole and the connector doesn’t want to pull out. So, how do I get back there to connect it???! I’ve tried pulling it through but that doesn’t seem to want to happen.

Pics to follow.

Ian

i did the same job albeit with the clam off but a week or two ago. it doesnt help you now, but perhaps others later, the easy thing to do is to leave the original cable and socket in the car, just twist the plastic socket off the glass lamp and replace with the new glass part. job done! LEAVE THE CABLE AND BUNG IN THE CAR! saves much time and effort for nothing.

ian you could probably reach the lost cables by popping the wheelarch liners in at the front and reach through to feed the cable through… although it doesn’t take long to remove the splitter. and it is always good to have a little check of the covered areas when possible.

my two bobs worth.

13

Cheers Sean. Remember mine’s a A/c car, so there’s more crap down there.

Thanks mitch, you’ve certainly helped with the one on the other side! I thought it was going to be easier to just do the plug rather than dismantle the lamp (how wrong I was ). In fact, I wasn’t even sure you could dismantle the lamp.

Seeing as I have ducting going through the wheel arch liner I’m only keen to remove that if the splitter doesn’t do it (then again, I probably have to take the splitter off anyway to remove the liner ).

You seem to infer I can get at it via the splitter? Which would make me a bit happier, as I think it’s now my prefered option.

Ian

14

I guess there are some jobs that you wish you had not started eh Ian

My theory is that Mike Lane etc now have gaps where the spots used to be because they gave up trying to refit them,…the weight saving was just a handy biproduct Go on Ian, leave them off and we’ll believe you when you say you say it is to save weight

15

This is what you will see if you take the wheelarch liner off. The back of the driving lamp is not visible but can only be just around the front of the crash structure…
[image]http://www.mariasteve.plus.com/images/DSC02480.JPG[/image]

PS I removed my wheelarch liner to investigate a strange noise from the front and found the rachet! It had been left there by one of the mechanics that had just worked on the car.

16

It had been left there by one of the mechanics that had just worked on the car.

I hope you returned it to its rightful owner

17

i did the same job albeit with the clam off but a week or two ago. it doesnt help you now, but perhaps others later, the easy thing to do is to leave the original cable and socket in the car, just twist the plastic socket off the glass lamp and replace with the new glass part. job done! LEAVE THE CABLE AND BUNG IN THE CAR! saves much time and effort for nothing.

Now I see!
I never imagined you diconnected there. Only considered disconnecting it from behind the lamp.

18

steve, that pic doesn’t make it look as if removing the liner is actually gonna help me?!

Benja, yep. Spots must go back though. Double

HOW THE HELL DO I GET IN THERE!?!!

Ian

19

I think you need to take the front undertray off

20

I hope you returned it to its rightful owner

The ratchet had his name engraved on - I just went back to the service centre and asked for him by name - when the service manager asked why, I produced the ratchet and explain where I had found it. The only think I got was “well it does happen sometimes”!

Seem to remember Jonny Herbert had a spanner left in the cockpit of his F1 car during a qualification session a few years ago.