Suspension Choices

The Oily Bits S1 Specific Topics
1

I think my suspension is fubarred.

I’ll be going for a Honda or Audi conversion fairly soon but need to sort the suspension this week before my trackday on 30th (so quick decision needed).

I’m leaning towards Nitron 2-ways because they’re cheaper than Ohlin 2 ways and have a little more provenance.

Where’s the best place to source?
Can I fit them myself then get a geo?
Are they a straight swap, or do I need to do something complicated?
Recommended spring rates? (considering it’s mainly a track day car with a heavier engine going-in in the next few months).

Cheers

2

I went for Nitron single-way adjustables with 400/500 springs for my Honda’d car. Makes a big difference even for a hamfist like me

You can get them direct from Nitron or Eliseparts or alike and fit them yourself or the obviously recommended route is to go to Plans and get them to do a full turn-key (I’ll claim my discount later Graham ).

3

Did you get Eibac springs, or just standard Nitron ones?

4

What are the 400/500 springs like on the road ??? did you have to change the valving or is the stock setting ok with that sort of spring rate.

My car will be used 90% road 10% track, do you think the 350/425 springs would be better.

5

Did you get Eibac springs, or just standard Nitron ones?

I did not even know there was a choice - I ordered them direct from Nitron so I guess they are Nitron springs.

What are the 400/500 springs like on the road ??? did you have to change the valving or is the stock setting ok with that sort of spring rate.

My car will be used 90% road 10% track, do you think the 350/425 springs would be better.

I ordered them with that spring rate so the valving was set correctly.

I think they are ok for the road but my car is now only really used for trackdays and travelling to motorsport/lotus events and so no normal road use. I am quite happy to live with it,…and I live in London!

I am sure 350/425 would be more amenable for the road but my feeling is that lots of speed over comfort compromises have already been made in the Exige,…what’s one more

6

i’ve had nitrons on for over 2 years, originally with 325/400 springs and recently with 400/500 springs. I would reccommend the 400/500 everytime.

If its just a track car and/or your local roads are smooth then you could even go a bit stiffer.

7

I have been persuaded by the Mrs that 2 way is 1 way too many for me to play with. So looks like 1 way Nitrons.

What’s the recommended spring rates then to give best on-track performance whilst leaving it ok for the road?

425 F 500 R ?

8

Nitron told me that a lot of Honda cars were going 400/500. Randy has advised some of us that 400/550 is the best road/track compromise.

9

Did you get Eibac springs, or just standard Nitron ones?

I asked around about that before getting mine and stuck with Nitron’s own. They apparently pretty good and a better understood combination.

Ian

10

I thought there should be a 75lb difference front to back, 150lb difference is quite a lot.

11

I thought there should be a 75lb difference front to back, 150lb difference is quite a lot.

Isn’t the std Exige 325,425? …therefore 100 difference.

12

The S1 std is more like 150 (can’t remember if that’s front or back) or something silly.

Ian

13

I have 1 way nitrons, and 450/550 springs on my car

14

Randy on SELOC has recommended 400 F and 550 R. I think he seems to know a bit about them, so looks like I’d better get ordering them.

Quo, why did you go for 450 550 ?

15

Remember that Randy can really drive so it might give you a car that’s not quite how you’d want it.

Just a thought.

Ian

16

Steve,

Go for 400/475 at the moment and once you have had your conversion done get some 500 or something else for the rear, they only cost around �50* a pair for Nitron Springs.

\

  • Disclaimer, this was 3 years ago.
17

I’ve got Nitrons with 450F & 550R (standard ARB mid setting).

However, suffers from slight understeer when pushed on track (especially when driven by Randy!), so intend trying 400 on the front.

PS Aren’t the springs supplied by Nitron made by Eibach? I seem to recall that mine are, but then again…

18

I think my suspension is fubarred.

I’ll ask the obvious - why do you think this?

19

Because the front wheels have started to grind the wheel arch liners and there was a vibration from the front felt through the peddles and wheel. Vibration most noticeable 20-30mph.

However…

I have just been messing and found the following.

Front right track rod end was seized. Got it moving again but it’s a bit stiff. I assume that this could have caused the front right suspension drop (could get 3 fingers between tyre and wheelarch on left but only 2 on right).

Replacing these looks relatively easy… Am I nieve?

Secondly I pulled the brakes apart and found…

Caliper bolts were very loose!! Could be easily turned by hand

Pads look worn strangley too. There’s a lip on the outside edge where the pads are hanging slightly off the edge of the rotor. Is this ok, or is there something wrong.

Just about to go out and test it, so fingers crossed I’ve found the causes.
Might mean I can wait for new suspension till I get a new engine.

20

Steve

Track-rod ends are pretty straight foward but you will need a ball-joint splitter.

I can’t see how a seized rod-end balljoint would cause suspension to drop… did it go back to same height as other side when you unseized it?.. in any case it prolly needs replaced.

Pads should’t be hanging over edge of disc… but if the caliper bolts (that hold it onto Hub carrier ??) were loose then it would possibly have enough movement to slip forward under braking such that the pads overhanged the rotor??