Freeing up the track rod end made no difference to the gap between the tyre and the bodywork
Also tightening up the caliper hasn’t stopped the funny vibration I’m getting
Starting to worry that the car will fall apart on track, and Cadwell doesn’t have much of a run off
Freeing up the track rod end made no difference to the gap between the tyre and the bodywork
Also tightening up the caliper hasn’t stopped the funny vibration I’m getting
Starting to worry that the car will fall apart on track, and Cadwell doesn’t have much of a run off
would have been surprised if the track rod fixed ride height
you did replace the knckered pads didn’t you ?..
if you ain’t confident in what you are seeing or feeling with the car get it checked out by someone you trust… don’t piss around Cadwell of all places if you ain’t completely confident of your brakes and suspension/steering bits n bobs… if you wrap it you will wish you hadn’t been a pikey…
I’ve phoned the Edwards, will ring agian tomorrow, if not it’s a long trip to Horizon.
I’m not a pikey, I just don’t have much time (or knowledge it seems too)
Worn Dampers will not make the car sag, it’s the springs that set the ride height. If it has dropped significantly then check the spring seat hasn’t moved, or you don’t have a broken spring. Unlikely that the springs have sagged after all the years they have been on there.
The vibration will be one of 2 things, either knackered brakes or dodgy ball-joints or bearings. The fact you have had a loose caliper means that the pads are probably fubarred now so will not help with vibration etc even after tightening, also might be worth checking the discs to make sure they haven’t been damaged or have strange wear on them.
Because the front wheels have started to grind the wheel arch liners
Nothing “wrong” with that, it just means you have been exploring the cornering potential of your car
I assume that this could have caused the front right suspension drop (could get 3 fingers between tyre and wheelarch on left but only 2 on right)
Don’t think this could cause your problem. Do you actually know this is related to the problem? Using the wheelarch as a datum point is not going to be very accurate.
Caliper bolts were very loose!! Could be easily turned by hand
They should be threadlocked in (Permabond A131) - was there any evidence of sealant on the threads? Also make sure that the mating surfaces of caliper and hub carrier are completely clean.
Pads look worn strangley too. There’s a lip on the outside edge where the pads are hanging slightly off the edge of the rotor. Is this ok, or is there something wrong.
definitely wrong - you will need new pads at best or worst solution, if you are pikey, is to remove the lip. Sounds like the caliper has been moving under braking.
Because the front wheels have started to grind the wheel arch liners
Nothing “wrong” with that, it just means you have been exploring the cornering potential of your car
But it has only started to happen in the last week or so. Never rubbed the arches before that, and if anything I’ve been driving more gently as it’s been raining. >
I assume that this could have caused the front right suspension drop (could get 3 fingers between tyre and wheelarch on left but only 2 on right)
Don’t think this could cause your problem. Do you actually know this is related to the problem? Using the wheelarch as a datum point is not going to be very accurate.
Yes agreed. It was just the first time I noticed there was a difference in clearance. Just reminded me of what happened to Wayne Owens car at Silverstone. Toe link seized which dropped the rear left of his car, thought I’d had similar but at the front right.
Caliper bolts were very loose!! Could be easily turned by hand
They should be threadlocked in (Permabond A131) - was there any evidence of sealant on the threads? Also make sure that the mating surfaces of caliper and hub carrier are completely clean.
Yes there was permabond residue on them. I’ve re-torqued them to 45nM and used a medium strength threadlocking compound (only thing I had).
Have recleaned the mating surfaces of the hub and rotor, but to be honest they were fine.Pads look worn strangley too. There’s a lip on the outside edge where the pads are hanging slightly off the edge of the rotor. Is this ok, or is there something wrong.
definitely wrong - you will need new pads at best or worst solution, if you are pikey, is to remove the lip. Sounds like the caliper has been moving under braking.
I have the ally bells and Alcon rotors that Andy D kindly sourced for me. They have small spacers to push the caliper out to clear the rotors. Is it possible that these spacers are too thick and site the caliper too far out, therefore locating the pads 1mm off the edge of the rotor?
Pads seem fine apart from the small ridge on the edge (which I pikely have just filed away ).
Rotors do move a few mm on the hub bolts, as there is no locating screws used.
Martin Edwards will be taking a look tomorrow evening (cheers Martin ) so hopefully I’ll have an expert opinion rather than my very ameterish one.
Because the front wheels have started to grind the wheel arch liners…
TADT on std suspension, if you’re trying that is.
…there was a vibration from the front…
That could be wheel balancing, the weights are always falling off mine. Admittedly less likely at 20-30mph.
Caliper bolts were very loose!! Could be easily turned by hand
I get the impression not everybody uses the recommended thread glue (see here), which is important as I understand different metals are involved.
Ian
Steve
The caliper bolts were torqued up when we fitted the disks with permabond - so … why are they loose would be my first question … whats happened ??
The spacers should we accurate but when its all tigtened down the ideal place for pad is right on the edge of the disk … again I’m sure that was ok …
My stuff from Andy was the perfect fit.
Ian
I know it was done properly at yours Andy because I saw you do it. Car has been for a service, MOT and a couple of other jobs since, so who knows what happened since. Just glad I found it when I did.
You did mention that the pads were rattling about in the calipers and the pins / retaining clip didn’t seem to hold them tight. Maybe that’s allowed them to move a bit
I’ll have to wait till tomorrow to find out.
You did mention that the pads were rattling about in the calipers and the pins / retaining clip didn’t seem to hold them tight. Maybe that’s allowed them to move a bit
When the pin is in there’s no way they could move up the disk face though.
Ian
Car has been for a service, MOT and a couple of other jobs since, so who knows what happened since. Just glad I found it when I did.
Absolutely, but I would be asking whoever has worked on the car whether they had removed the bolts?
Did you fit new pads ? - just thinking maybe other makes of pad ( I sized on Pagid ) may be slightly different …
Same SBS pads as I had at the time of swap-over, Andy.
Would it help if I took some photos?
Same SBS pads as I had at the time of swap-over, Andy.
Would it help if I took some photos?
That would be good - yup
But Martin has fitted this setup to Benja’s so he knows how it goes …
Martin & Steve seem to think there’s no problem with the brakes. Pad 1mm off the edge is probably due to SBS pad being different size to Pagid.
No problems with suspension but the vibration still is there most noticeable between 30-20. Eliminated down to possibilities of:
However it appears to be safe to take on track.
Huge thanks to Martin & Steve for spending their time checking the car out (and changing the anti-roll bar).