Well my oil temp got around 127 degree Monday at Bedford … usual stuff but last session it went to -61
Open circuit - checked wiring - all ok so looks like sender has packed up … will check what a standard one is rated to but gotta be more than 120 degree ??
Well my oil temp got around 127 degree Monday at Bedford … usual stuff but last session it went to -61
Open circuit - checked wiring - all ok so looks like sender has packed up … will check what a standard one is rated to but gotta be more than 120 degree ??
hmmm very interesting. I fitted the same gauge a few weeks ago. Ran fine for a couple of days on the road. Did the LOT day at Zandvoort and after 6 or so laps the temp display did the same as yours. Wriggled the plug at the engine end and it came good. Same thing happened the next couple of times out and eventually it got stuck on 159C. I initially thought the same as you that it was the sensor but having replaced it nothing changed. Turned out the wiring inside the cable had fused together. The cable didn’t run near the manifold, nor was it touching anything ‘hot’. Spa send me a new wiring loom, and looking through the manual I was surprised to read that the cable shouldn’t be subjected to more than 80C, which imho is a bit silly. The Dutch dealer I bought it from reckoned it was the first he had seen one do this but I’m not so sure now…
You would think for the amount of money they charge for the gauge they’d use wire that had better heat tolerance.
Ian
Yeah - very interesting …
I’ve had mine in for three track events, and ok Zanvoort was cut short … but Bedford was especially hot …
Anyhow - standard sensor is rated to 150 degree max …
If the wiring is rated to only 80 its PVC crap - I agree for the money they should use PTFE wiring - anyhow mine is within some heat sleeve stuff but I will double check it - if not maybe need to cool the sensor
Just for future reference, myself & the Edwards Boyz have got Racetech gauges in our cars, & have no problems.
anyhow mine is within some heat sleeve stuff but I will double check it - if not maybe need to cool the sensor
Mine is to now…
The gauge itself is top notch imho, but the devil is in the detail…
Just for future reference, myself & the Edwards Boyz have got Racetech gauges in our cars, & have no problems.
Ner ner neer ner!
For the uninformed of the gauge world:
Rachtech = analogue, which you need to look at, but as long as the needle is where you last saw it great
SPA = digital display, but with alarms that tell you when to panic (assuming they are working!)
Solution? - SPA gauge, Racetech wiring!
Ian
When you get to my age, analogue is best I’m buggered if I can read the Stack displays when driving in bright sunshine, let alone whilst on track
My plan is to fit SPAs and link the alarm outputs to a LED on the steering pinicle. That way the car tells me when it’s sick rather than me having to look (assuming they work!).
Ian
The SPA gauges have their own alarm lights, very bright too.
No real need to wire them on to other lights (if that’s possible)
I have just installed the gauges myself and wonder why everyone else who has, has not mentioned the wiring loomm IS TOO SHORT!
Now, for the oil pressure/temp loom the only way to get it to the dashboard is under the central “console”, through the small hole where the handbrake line goes, under the tank and directly to the oil filter adaptor.
The other one I fit was the fuel pressure, and that needs to go through the hole below the main wiring loom, up on the left, but this one will definitely not make the front part of the “console”, the wires have to exit it at the gear lever level and jump straight from there to the dash.
The gauges are just below the dash, in the centre of the car.
Looks ugly, but for the fuel pressure/airbox temp it would need about 1/2 meter longer wire.
On the up side, I found out that my supposedly 4 bar regulator is giving only 3.2 bar, so need to work on that!
The SPA gauges have their own alarm lights, very bright too.
No real need to wire them on to other lights (if that’s possible)
But that still means you have to look at them. I intend to mount my SPAs between the footwell light and the cig lighter (with the Brooke Kensington strut). I will then run the alarm output to a LED on the steering binnicle. When the alarm comes on I want to see it instantly in my field of vision and back-off quickly to minimise any potential damage to the engine. Surely that is the greatest benefit gauges can provide?
As the SPAs only for 2 things each and I want 5 readings (oil temp/pressure, fuel pressure, water temp(I know it’s on the Stack but want the alarm) and volts), I’m going to look for a simple LED volt warning to also go on the binnicle. AndyD reckons they exist, all suggestions welcome.
Rather cruelly (although I think he’d say it was humour ), Benja has refered to this binnicle set-up as my HUD, that will need a manual to decipher! Honestly, they’ll be 4 LEDs for the shift light, one for all the SPA alarms and (hopefully) no more than 3 for the volts.
Ian
Something like this for the voltage warning - click here
Hmmm, you have a point.
Instead of ordering the longer wire loom I could just install the BK pod like you say (knew it existed but couldn’t find it around)
The way they are installed now is on the bottom part of the dash, and the cable jumping from there to the gear lever housing looks ugly.
I’m planning to use only 1 light for the shift light, but I like the volts status.
How about a loud buzzer as an alarm?
I did think of a buzzer, but at 7000+rpm with a helmet on it’s gonna have to be VERY loud!
Anybody got any suggestions for a UK supplier for the Volt LEDs thingy?
Ian
Surely teh big ends ripping themselves to peices would be the loudest buzzer of all
If it helps, the SPAs have a built in low voltage indicator…
I have one set at 11v and one set at 12v so I can see roughly what the voltage is…
That’ll do the trick the.
Thanks Brian!
It’s only a flashing indicator when voltage is below the threshold, but it’s enough to see if you have an alternator issue. 
Can’t see why you need a proper voltage read out in a modern car
Oh… for the external alarm trigger there’s just an empty bit on the SpA plug; see if you can nab a dead ATX computer power supply. Cut the plug apart and use the metal pin + wire as they clip straight in to the SpA connector 
Bri
Uldis, I extended the looms myself using the sureseal rubber plugs - if you need some let me know I ordered a job lot from RS components
Thanks Andy, but spoke with SPA and they told me they can make any length on request.
Since I bought already mine they’ll make it on exchange for 15 quid. But I’ll do that after mapping (next Thursday)
I also commented the reported detail of wiring looms melting, in case I had to sheathe mine in hi temp tape or something, but e told me no need. It only happens when the cable is in contact with hot things, like the block.
I had routed mine from the gauge directly to the wishbone, plenty of room to play but won’t slack. And from there to the part below the tank, so it’s far awy from any hot surfaces.
He assured me it would be ok and that no special covering was needed.
FYI.
If it helps, the SPAs have a built in low voltage indicator…
Is that ‘all SPAs have that, in addition to their normal function’? Which would be nice. Does it trigger the alarm in the same way as the levels you’ve set?
I thought low voltage could mean the injectors didn’t fire properly and cause funny bangs in the chambers.
Ian