Hi Ian, yes all SPA gauges have a low voltage function, but I am 99% sure that it doesn’t triger the alarms.
Yeah low voltage is a killer for injectors, it takes a lot of juice to actually open the injector, but once open it takes next to nothing to hold it open. ECU’s like good steady voltage as well.
I will try and dig out an SPA manual and confirm the low battery level, alarm triger thing once and for all
Sean…
Cheers Sean!
So what minimum voltage for the injectors then, 11V ok?
Ian
Looked in my SPA book and you can set the low voltage alarm as in what volts cause it to come on but no external possible it seems - it just flashes on the display … and yes it did work when my alternator was not charging - thats how I knew
Not 100% sure. I know the Bosch injectors we use on cossies take 13.2v to open properly. You really want to be seeing high 13’s really. I would set the alarm to 13.0v. Because the alternator if working correctly will always give more than that.
Poo, that would preclude the traffic light thingy I found then, as that only does an 11V low warning.
Perhaps I’ll try and find the operating low of our injectors. Anybody know the make and model?
Ian
OK - got a new sensor and gauge works again - just gotta undo the damn sump plug and fit it the adaptor ho ho -
I also commented the reported detail of wiring looms melting, in case I had to sheathe mine in hi temp tape or something, but e told me no need. It only happens when the cable is in contact with hot things, like the block.
I had routed mine from the gauge directly to the wishbone, plenty of room to play but won’t slack. And from there to the part below the tank, so it’s far awy from any hot surfaces.
He assured me it would be ok and that no special covering was needed.FYI.
Not true, my first cable was not touching the block or any metal whatsoever - I used rubber standoffs to keep it away from any metal contact.
The oil pressure connector is a bugger since you need to take it apart in order to past the cable into the engine bay. Interestinly the Americans get a normal connector, since they complained about not being able to pass the connector through the firewall (no particular car) - I know this since a mate in NZ bought his gauge in the States and it came with a different connector (that was able to be passed through the gear cable hole. Alas his loom wasn’t long enough, something I avoided.
Ian,
I see what you say about the odd connector, but it can be passed through the gear cable/brake line hole.
I did it just removing the RH seat because its allen bolt & rail were not letting the connector pass. Once the seat was moved an inch, the connector passed ok.
It’s still not long enough so I have the option of leaving as it is and passing the cable straight from the gear lever up to the dash or sending it to be swapped.
Glad to hear it is possible Uldis, although it didn’t take more than 5min to take the plug apart. I just think they need to sort out a couple of issues that have been raised on this thread. Proper heat resistant wiring and a clear indication of the length of the cable supplied would go a long way in reducing the number of returns.
Agree.
We can only let them know as it happens.
Where is the best place to connect the gauges to 12v and ground…?? I have mine on the “floor” in front of gear stick… Under the dash ,there was a unused 3 wire connector on the pasenger side (next to some relays), maybe I can use that (if its 12v, havent mesured it yet)…
I connected mine to the +12 and gnd that feeds the cigarrette lighter in front of the gear stick.
If you don’t have that, could it be the connector you found there?
I connected mine to the +12 and gnd that feeds the cigarrette lighter in front of the gear stick.
If you don’t have that, could it be the connector you found there?
Blody hell… why dident I think of that… … A bit of soldering and it should be ok…thanks… once again Uldis… … I just love this forum…
The oil pressure connector is a bugger since you need to take it apart in order to past the cable into the engine bay.
If you use a small screwdriver to press on the barbs on the side of the connector at the gauge end and pull sightly the ‘pins’ come out, tape them up and they will thread through alongside the existing wiring without disturbing the pressure transducer connector at all.