If you could take note of ambient and air intake temps too
Yes they must be within 5 deg c of each other on a Dyno Dynamics otherwise pretty meaningless. This dyno has had a few screwy readings on it, like when my FQ300 has it’s boost raised from 1, to 1.6 bar, bigger pump, full decat and mapped by mapping god Bob Rawle… it came out with 308 on the same day
I think they have it sorted now though. I think the only fair way to judge my Exige would be a before and after dyno but alas I didn’t do the before.
Your best doing the comps on the same day and without untying the car. Tying a car down tighter than before can make a difference.
Where are you based?
Nice one Mark, well done
Thanks alot though, now I’ve got no chance of keeping up with you at Spa…I’ll get my own back when I’ve got a red “R” on the back o me car, well more power anyHoo…Can you get a honda conversion for an S2 or should I be going KT?
I will be the one with brake fade, Jonny! I have hoses going on, Monday but might need some pads. Just concerned with these drilled discs - surprised Lotus use them. I;d hate for them to crack at Spa!
You have much better brakes and suspension than me, so that may prove more effective on track. I will use that as an excuse if you overtake me
RE the Honda, I’m no expert but I think the Toyota Engine is a good one, and the K20A will only give you 30 bhp more tops, but will costs many thousands. What’s the price on the Katana kit? May be better to use the existing engine as a base?
Mark
I wouldn’t risk going all the way to spa with standard brakes
I cooked a set in 1 day at Oulton
IMO a pad upgrade to at least 42’s all round and a front disk ugrade - Eliseparts Ally belled are a good option other than going for full AP’s
I went down several ‘compromise’ upgrades before bitting the bullet and fitting AP’s
Spa’s a long way from home and it would really p*** you off if you have to stop every couple of laps due to brakes issues.
Have you upgraded any other bits in line with the power increase - baffled sumps,accusumps etc ?
If not you might need to keep an eye on oil pressure etc.
After all that have a great time - I’m jealous really !!
Jonnyfox will be coming back and throwing more cash at his car - More power More power More power etc.
His Exige will be worth about 100K by the time he’s finished - I’ve just realised, he’s the british Ronin !!!
Cheers Chris. I tend to not do too many laps at a time - when I was at donny I was doing 6 or 7 max, so probably 3 to 4 at Spa. I’m not too hard on brakes either.
Is it hard on brakes there, as a track?
I don’t have any baffled sump or oil pressure gauge… Again, does Spa have some long / high g corners?
Got me worried now…!
Do you have a link to the brakes you mention?
Ha Ha the engine will be my next port of call…I have minor mods on the chasis to do but behind the back seats is where it’s at Chris!
I’m thinking about a spare set of brake pads, tyres should last, little fluid here and there, got air anything you need and can’t take Marky give me a buzz. I know we’re off topic now mate but I’m not going to wrag the s**t out of it two days solid! And (God forbid) should anythin happen we’ve got a trailer! Hey Chris, still one place left and you should see the Hotel or should I say “Spa” we’re staying at…might grab a facial while I’m there!
Hi Mark
Links to brakes below
http://www.eliseparts.com/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=112_114&products_id=374
As for Spa - never driven it but based on F1 etc the 2 high speed corners are Eau Rouge & Blanchimont.
I’d just make sure the oil is right at the top of the dip and check it regularly.
According to Lotus the standard Toyota engine can handle 1.2G before oil starvation at the head causes issues.
Hence the 240 cup cars with Ohlins etc get accusumped as they can generate more than 1.2G in fast corners.
Never measured the G in mine yet so couldn’t verify.
Mr Pesky is the man to ask - I guess he’ll be along shortly
In the meantime here’s the link to read
Still jealous though !!!
Good info Chris, I will have a think about that.
Just had the car dyno’d and the AFR looks fine which means I fitted the injectors properly and the ECU is working well.
It came out as 206 ATW or 245 AFT which is a bit lower than expected, but the ECU is still learning and these cars HATE being on a dyno. Each run was dropping about 3 bhp due to heat. If there was a feed to the intakes and the top feed to the aftercooler I would think 260 was realisitc This was never really about a power figure though.
AT was 20, IT was 20, RH was 85, Gear was 3.
We moved the ramps and got the fan right upto the nose, but it’s not enough really.
[image]http://www.sidtech.co.uk/iu/ScoobyMark16712296662.jpg[/image]
![http://www.sidtech.co.uk/iu/ScoobyMark16712296662.jpg[/image]](http://www.sidtech.co.uk/iu/ScoobyMark16712296662.jpg%5B/image%5D){kind=link}
Here’s a couple of clips of it on the move. First is just some in gear stuff, and the second is a 0-60 launch which I wasn’t even trying on, and it still flies
Lovely looking car!
Regarding the brakes, I don’t think you have too much to worry about as long as you put some good pads in. I run Performance Friction PF01s and SRF fluid and all good.
The Elise Trophy guys were running std discs and aftermarket pads recently at Spa and were fine.
Regarding the power gains its an interesting situation. Good gains from 220.
One thing to consider is adaptation (learning) normal adapts power out after a reflash.
To explain…normally when flashing you clear the adaptation tables. So the engine runs on full power immediately after the flash. It takes a couple of full tanks of good quality fuel, min 97 RON, to level out the adaptation before a reliable power reading can be taken.
So my advice would be to do that then run it again on the RR.
Don’t get me wrong adaptation can up the power if you go from a low quality fuel regime or low air quality environment. It all depends if the adaptation was cleared in the reflash process.
Yup i’ve seen cars learn “up” in the past, but I agree on the whole they tend to go down.
It depends what the default setting for timing / knock detection are in the new map, and what fuel you are using. In this case I don’t know! If it was based on US fuel then our 98/99 would mean it has scope for more ignition advance.
It’s done 80 miles from the install until the dyno so i’d guess it would be near optimum. I can only speak of Japanese ECU’s but they would have their WOT / Open loop ignition timing set in the short term by then.
Good advice on the brakes too, I think for now I will go with the pads as you suggest. I have hoses and fluid going in on Monday so might get some pads ordered in the morning!
At the end of the day RR power is not really what these cars are about, bhp without the skill to use it is useless. And headline power isn’t what its all about.
Driveability and the ability to exploit the available power is what a good map is about in our opinion. More power is beneficial of course.
And at the end of the day if you are happy thats what matters
If you want some PF01s I can supply at leading prices, send me a PM if you want some.
Best
Damon
Agreed, and i’m chuffed which is the main thing.
I still maintain that it doesn’t need more power, but it was there so why not
Can you get them here for Monday??
Not now no!!!
�84.68 +vat for 2 pot fronts
Ok speak Monday
So how does the car feel? does it feel much different? I must say I was considering the gotham tune but I’ll sit on the fence a little longer I think as at 245 its not such a big gain considering the S is supposed to be more like 230 as standard.
Would of been interesting to see before and after dynos on the same RR I guess. Arnt Sincs quoting 265bhp for the gotham?
Boothy
On the Sector 111 site they say the Gotham gives 265bhp an increase of 27bhp over standard
But on thinking about it all US cars are around 240bhp to start with ?
So
Std UK Exige is is 218bhp to start with so add 27bhp and you get 245 - just what Mark is saying he achieved on the RR.
Yep, I tend to agree Chris.
Boothy - you cant take that dyno figure as fact - take heed of what I mentioned earlier, the fact that the car was dropping a good bit of power on every run due to heat. It had been sat idling on the dyno for about 10 mins while it was setup.
We had a BIG fan running, but it simply doesn’t replicate road speed air flows due to where the after cooler intake is situated. Works well on front mount intercooled cars though.
I was hoping this would not get into a debate on numbers, but I suspect it would make 260 or so if it had air feeds in the right places.
It is a good chunk quicker on the road which is what counts.
I think also, and this is a BIG bug bear of mine (and partly my fault in this thread!) that we should be talking WHP just to make it a bit more accurate.
This was 206.
PS - boost was 0.55 bar or about 8 psi.
Sorry did not mean to drag it into number crunching, I was just interested as most people would buy a mod like the gotham for the gains in hp.
The US cars that the Gotham was designed on were the 220bhp cars AFAIK they have only just changed to the 240PP car from 08 MY.
As my car is still well under warranty I was thinking of possibly looking into trying to buy the 240PP mod but I cant seem to find out what the difference is, I am guessing ecu and injectors although I am not sure if they will even sell it to me.
The main thing is you seem more than happy with it which is all that matters I look forward to reading how you get on with the car.
cheers
Boothy