After much penetrating oil and large extension on ring spanner managed to get some movement on the bolt…wishbone wanted to move with it! so its all seized in there.
More penetrant and many many full turns later there is some movement , Graunch has reduced and the “shock” felt through the wishbone is reduced…not cured by any means but better,
Nylatrons MUST be serviced properly annually otherwise this happens (see loads on SELOC)
Next problem will be removing stuck bolt, There is no direct access from the nut end for a hammer and so far no gaps between chassis and bolt head to get a lever in. So how do I get it out to fit OEM bushes!!!
Bottom line Clive is its a 15 year old car, most nuts bolt threads whatever will be seized. Get yourself started on a suspension refresh buddy. My car was the same, drove ok though but will be better with a little work I could have flown through it but work, family and money get in the way…well and the everything or nothing approach I’m taking. You could have it done in 2-3 weeks. Sure it’ll be ok for Brands, can’t see you harming anything other that the stuff that’s already due a change…
Hi Jonny trouble is the suspension movement is the steel bobbin turning in the chassis because the bolt/bobbin are rusted together…hidden by the wishbone in the pic. I doubt this is good.
Dare I use some heat on the bolt head???
Full refresh and serious strip down planned for winter but this needs sorting before irreparable damage
I had the same on a spare chassis and elected to sacrifice the wishbone.
Try the plugas and freeze stuff first as it may come loose by working it and soaking for a week as you’re trying. I ended up putting a recip saw up through the bolt just at the edge of each end of the wishbone bush, that’s your worst case scenario really. Take your time use a bit of wood to minimise any rubbing.
Heat isn’t a great idea with the alloy really, you need to be careful.
The pick-up points look deformed because there’s either the wrong amount of castor shims currently fitted OR at some point there were too few fitted and the bolt was still tightened up on the box section.
150 years of combined steam and modelmaking experiance has got it all apart and thanks to Junks I hope to have it all together before Saturday…"some interesting pic to follow
BUT. Reminder to all with Nylatron or similar bushes. YouMUST. Grease them annually other wise my fee for getting it all apart for you will be a serious quantity of Pinot Noir.
The up side of this is I have a nice new reciprocating saw which will come in useful for Autumn pruning!.
All sorted thanks to Junks .
Sawed the bush with a reciprocating saw and fitted OEM and new bolt courtesy of Junks.
and this is what I found, the sleeve and bush are fused together and as the pic shows would not budge , so sawing was the only answer.
Hope the rest of them are better…will find out when the refurb starts.
Swelling is not unknown with Nylatron and other nylon or nylon-derived materials, due to moisture absorption over time. For this reason it is generally advised to machine accordingly, ie. to allow a greater clearance than normal.
Most of the Nylatron bushes I have come across have quite a thin section so swelling is limited. Because of the MoS2 in Nylatron, it has better self-lubrication and wear characteristics than, say, ordinary nylon so the thin section isn’t an issue for lifing.
In this case I suspect the eventual binding has been caused by a combination of the bush swelling - probably not helped by the thickness of the bush wall - and corrosion of the steel parts.