S2 Uprights

Did the search - fook all so I’ll start a new post

Got my car nice and low now but still not enough camber on the front - what are the options ?

  1. Machine the existing uprights
  2. Fit new - Eliseparts have some listed

Anyone gone down either route or got a clever idea ?

TA

Chris,

Niton do some simply beautiful uprights, fully designed and CNC machined in house, steering arms and bushes all of top quality and all which will give you what you want. :sunglasses:

Give them a call!!!

Machine the steering arm, or fit an elise parts steering arm kit (bump steer kit) how low are you going ?

As above, machine the steering arm or get the elise parts kit. You should also look at raising the steering rack.

Or wait a couple of weeks for some new to market steering arms with optimised bumpsteer geometry for lowered cars!!(proper measurements already done)

My thoughts are you can go to low and stiff, it’s not all about flat cornering.

My first track set up was lower than a snake’s belly in a tyre rut but handled like shopping trolly

Anything below 120mm ride height on the front of the toyota cars and the factory deem the front upper wishbone ball joints out of their optimal working position and won’t lower the car any further than that for you, want to go lower >90mm at the front you should really be looking to change them for the 2-11 front upper w/bones and steering control arms which have been modified by having the ball joint sockets welded on at a different angle. The 2-11 also has a shorter front ohlins damper than the exige/111R does which should also be taken into consideration at the same time if going that route. (Your existing front ohlins can be converted by a dealer to suit) :slight_smile:

Chris, Just machine 5mm from the face of the steering arms. I’ve just done it and it gives up to -2.5 deg camber with all the shims removed.

Machine and lower, there is no need to move the rack… My ride height is 110/115 and I have no issues with handling. If you don’t believe me ask Chris Randall, he’s driven my car at speed…

Chris, on a lighter note, you are going to have to rename you car as a MUG260:-

The first bit is self explanatory, the 260 will denote the number of paces you have been lead up the garden path :wink:
:smiley:

Hey why no birthday cake?

Big 5 0 for me today :astonished:

Happy birthday Tim :sunglasses:



Bloody whippersnapper! :smiley:

Happy Birthday Tim! Its a great age… well as far as I can remember!!! :smiley:

Happy birthday Tim :wink:

[quote=chrisexigegt]Did the search - fook all so I’ll start a new post

Got my car nice and low now but still not enough camber on the front - what are the options ?

  1. Machine the existing uprights
  2. Fit new - Eliseparts have some listed

Anyone gone down either route or got a clever idea ?

TA [/quote]

How much camber do you actually want on the front?

The easy and cheap option is to just to machine the existing upright. Job done.

I think there is a LOT more to this than getting some metal shaved off!!!

I am no expert in this at all, but I do know that the suspension geometry up front is critical… bump steer for example being a significant consideration.

I gather from Dave’s SeriouslyLotus post that Nitron Racing Systems have been doing a great deal of work in this area recently… they have the services of an ex Penskey (NOT PESKY!!!) racing and Honda FI engineer on board now and some new bits to fully optimise the front end set-up are in the pipeline.

They are experts in this field and personally I would fully trust the stuff that is developed as a result of a great deal of R and D… rather than just getting the metal lathe out in your shed!!!

I say this following my visits to their factory for the NTR’s… it was a REAL eye opener!! So much CAD work on the latest computers, CNC tooling, ‘clean’ assembly rooms, etc etc… totally aerospace stuff… which is I suppose why I am so impressed by their set-up! :sunglasses: Looking forward to their open day coming up soon I gather… it will be a visit worth doing if you have not been there before! Any news on a date yet Dave?

Sorry… just noted the slight thread drift!!! :slight_smile:

[quote=pete757]I think there is a LOT more to this than getting some metal shaved off!!!

I am no expert in this at all, but I do know that the suspension geometry up front is critical… bump steer for example being a significant consideration.

I gather from Dave’s SeriouslyLotus post that Nitron Racing Systems have been doing a great deal of work in this area recently… they have the services of an ex Penskey (NOT PESKY!!!) racing and Honda FI engineer on board now and some new bits to fully optimise the front end set-up are in the pipeline.

They are experts in this field and personally I would fully trust the stuff that is developed as a result of a great deal of R and D… rather than just getting the metal lathe out in your shed!!!

I say this following my visits to their factory for the NTR’s… it was a REAL eye opener!! So much CAD work on the latest computers, CNC tooling, ‘clean’ assembly rooms, etc etc… totally aerospace stuff… which is I suppose why I am so impressed by their set-up! :sunglasses: Looking forward to their open day coming up soon I gather… it will be a visit worth doing if you have not been there before! Any news on a date yet Dave?

Sorry… just noted the slight thread drift!!! :slight_smile: [/quote]

There really isn’t any more to it than just machining a few mm off the hub to get the desired camber.

Bumpsteer and suspension angle is only an issue when running exceptionally low ride heights and the wishbones geometry is affected. The Exige will happily run at 110/115 ride height (which is not that low), but will start requiring the hubs to be machined to get a decent amount of camber for track. Depends on what the OP wants…with the splitter on the exige, you can’t really run that low ride height anyway on the road and I wouldn’t really run much more than -1 degree on the front for a road/track car. All personal opinion though.

[quote=N17VES][quote=pete757]I think there is a LOT more to this than getting some metal shaved off!!!

I am no expert in this at all, but I do know that the suspension geometry up front is critical… bump steer for example being a significant consideration.

I gather from Dave’s SeriouslyLotus post that Nitron Racing Systems have been doing a great deal of work in this area recently… they have the services of an ex Penskey (NOT PESKY!!!) racing and Honda FI engineer on board now and some new bits to fully optimise the front end set-up are in the pipeline.

They are experts in this field and personally I would fully trust the stuff that is developed as a result of a great deal of R and D… rather than just getting the metal lathe out in your shed!!!

I say this following my visits to their factory for the NTR’s… it was a REAL eye opener!! So much CAD work on the latest computers, CNC tooling, ‘clean’ assembly rooms, etc etc… totally aerospace stuff… which is I suppose why I am so impressed by their set-up! :sunglasses: Looking forward to their open day coming up soon I gather… it will be a visit worth doing if you have not been there before! Any news on a date yet Dave?

Sorry… just noted the slight thread drift!!! :slight_smile: [/quote]

There really isn’t any more to it than just machining a few mm off the hub to get the desired camber.

Bumpsteer and suspension angle is only an issue when running exceptionally low ride heights and the wishbones geometry is affected. The Exige will happily run at 110/115 ride height (which is not that low), but will start requiring the hubs to be machined to get a decent amount of camber for track. Depends on what the OP wants…with the splitter on the exige, you can’t really run that low ride height anyway on the road and I wouldn’t really run much more than -1 degree on the front for a road/track car. All personal opinion though.
[/quote]

^^^^As I understand it too
Whilst I was getting lowered at Hofmann’s they had a track car in being modified and they machined the uprights. I got about 1.5deg just by removing the shims, I think they were aiming for 2.5deg. My car was set at 115/125, it proved too low, not really for the road but for the damage the tyres did to my headlights. Up to 120/130 now

I run my car at 110\120 and the splitter just clears speed bumps, however at that height the front arch liners don’t last very long