You guys need proper spring rates, I don’t buzz my front arches…
Best I forward to Randy, he must have seen me coming.
Anyhow, 550/700 Eibachs with friendly little helpers.
Happy Birthday Tim
Yep same here Happy Birthday Tim.
Frank, don’t forget we only have cobble streets over here 
[quote=661]
^^^^As I understand it too
Whilst I was getting lowered at Hofmann’s they had a track car in being modified and they machined the uprights. I got about 1.5deg just by removing the shims, I think they were aiming for 2.5deg. My car was set at 115/125, it proved too low, not really for the road but for the damage the tyres did to my headlights. Up to 120/130 now [/quote]
1.5 deg was the max I could achieve by removing the shims. I agree that’s fine for road/track. For track/race my tyre wear suggests that I’m still not running enough negative. Hence the 5mm material removal will take me down to -2.5deg.
I guess you can remove it from the upright or steering arm. I chose the steering arm because it’s less hassle to remove (no hub removal) and cheaper to replace if you have an incident with the machining. The added bonus for me was that I discovered one of the arms was bent when we jigged it up 
Chris et all!!!
Here is the link to the Nitron uprights mate…
http://www.nitron.co.uk/products_lotusparts_susp_uprights.htm
Time to drool! and buy those wet’s too!!! 
Ceers,
Pete
While we’re looking at shiny new bits its worth mentioning to those who want more camber AND want to be able to adjust/optimise the bumpsteer that Pilbeam make a fantastic steering arm kit that do both these. Pilbeam Shop clicky
Otherwise, if you’re not interested in the adjustability, machining the standard steering arm is by far the most cost effective way of getting more camber.