Remote Thermostat question

Hi Guys,

OK, I am halfway through fitting one of the Elise Parts remote thermostat kits and I have a question.

The kit includes replacement pipes for the 4 way spider or rubber hose that comes as standard. Fitted in one of the hoses that I am supposed to replace is a small Bosch water pump. The fitting instuctions make no mention of this pump. I called and spoke to Ian (Geary wasn’t around) and he was none the wiser.

My questions are:

  1. Why is the pump there, is it simply an assistor pump???
  2. Can I bin it???

Any help greatly received.

Sean…

Oh incase it matters my car does have aircon. Or at least it did until this morning when I took the compressor off.

Sean…

Sean

I don’t have aircon, and am not aware of any extra pump in the coolant circuit for non-aircon cars. I’d suggest its a recirculator pump in the heater circuit of you AC stuff… to keep hot coolant flowing to the radiator when the engine is switched off

If you are in the process of removing ALL your AC gubbins then you might not need this extra bosch pump but i’m not sure exactly how much modification you will need to do to the coolant circuit in taking care of business…

Geary’s web site says the remote stat isn’t suitable for aircon cars…

You’re right there.
Maybe we have to wait for Phil or one of the aircon guys.
My car didn’t have a pump.

But whatever the answer, be sure to get the stat with the O-ring (otherwise it’s going to leak) and get the long top hose (otherwise there is no room with the dual coil there)
This kit was originally developed for Elises which have a slightly different layout.

Yup there is a pump and its just in front of the expansion tank in the radiator by pass circuit. So it pumps from the engine outlet elbow back into the engine at the thermostat.

There is also a heater water valve in the pipe that goes into the heater matrix - its loacted in the elbow where you fit the remote stat …

Removing the pump from the system is no problem at all. The kit comes with a right angle hose that will simply go in place of the pump. I have done a bit of looking in the manual and the pump is only fitted to aircon cars and is activated when the ignition is off and when the coolant is over 105 degrees, where it circulates water through the engine for 20 mins at most. Wow, talk about shutting the gate after the horse has bolted. So it looks like the ump will be binned, unless anyone on here can convince me otherwise.

Sean…

Has anyone fitted a remote Thermostat to an Air-con car?

Not that I can recall.

I’d be keen to know too, even more so if they’d managed to keep to A/C.

Ian

Mark

Keeping the air con as well ? - Thats what I whant to know as well

It seems that the remote stat is going where that heater valve is and that thing should close when the aircon is selected to stop hot water flowing around the heater matrix - I guess on some that doesnt work and then the complaint of non effective air con -

I dont know exact how Geary’s stat fits but I’m guessing thats the problem area ?

What about the QED version that fits in the top hose ?

It’s the coolant recirculation pump which operates in extreme temperature and when the air con has been running to flow coolant through the system, i would bin it and if the car has gotten very hot just let it run for a minute or so to keep the coolant flowing through the system with the aircon off. It only operates when temperatures have reached very high levels so it should not be aproblem.

I asked this question over on Seloc a few weeks ago when I had a new stat fitted. If you click on the link to elise_s1 site there is the new rover setup used on the MGF it is supposed to be able to work on cars with air con. It is down near the bottom of the page and it costs �47 for the stat and replacement hoses.

Bingo! Top work Tom.

AndyD, being the expert that’s most researched this, what’dya think?

Ian

In the end I have decided to keep the recirculation pump. According to the workshop manual, it operates when the ignition is OFF and the water temp is at 105 degrees. It then turns off as soon as the water goes below 100 degrees or after 20 minutes.

I am going to rig up a switch to the pump so that I can turn it on when I come off track after I have stopped the engine, to keep the water circulating for a few minutes. This should certainly help with any localised boiling. This seems like a great thing to have in my book!!!

As far as Gearys kit fitting on an aircon car, with the aircon fitted. Yes I believe it would. I have just binned my aircon, but the remote stat fits nicely at the bottom drivers side corner of the engine bay. It would not be impeded by the aircon compressor or asociated belts / piping. It also does not impede the heater valve as this is retained on mine as the manual reckons it does something other than operate in an “aircon on” scenario

Plus I have to say on my drive home tonight the heater seemed to blo hotter than it ever had before???

Sean…

Ian

I’m no expert at all, but I think the new Rover stat can be placed in the INLET pipe and so doesnt get mixed up with the water valve.

I cant find the fitting instructions for Geary’s stat anymore but I thought it went on the OUTLET side … which is good if you want to see even temperature but the original stat is on the inlet for a good reason …

The new Rover stat is a nice idea IMO

PS - Where the hell is that S1 site

Ian

I’m no expert at all, but I think the new Rover stat can be placed in the INLET pipe and so doesnt get mixed up with the water valve.

I cant find the fitting instructions for Geary’s stat anymore but I thought it went on the OUTLET side … which is good if you want to see even temperature but the original stat is on the inlet for a good reason …

The new Rover stat is a nice idea IMO

PS - Where the hell is that S1 site

Here is his site its called a rover PRRT stat down near the bottom of the page.

http://web.tiscali.it/elise_s1/index.htm

Thanks Tom

That site has been updated then, because thats where I first read about the PRRT stat but they had not tried it then …

Looking at the installation its exact as I thought - in the INLET side - seems the perfect answer to me …

When you read more this seems a great solution … and even possible on an aircon version

When I had my stat replaced I spoke to Steve Williams at S W Lotus about it and he said he didn’t want to fit it incase it caused problems. My temp readings have started dropping down to low 60’s again when I accelerate hard so dont think it was the stat. What temperature does everone else’s drop to when accelerating to 7500rpm in this weather just wondering if it’s normal to drop that low.
Now who is going to be the guinea-pig for this new stat fitment?.

Having your water temp too low is alos not a good thing. I would say that you should be aiming to keep the coolant temp in the 80’s at all times.

I’ve had the Eliseparts remote stat fitted on my car, thinking it would help to stabilize the temp, but I discovered this weekend that the temperature still drops into the sixties when I get above 7000prm.

What’s going on?

I’ve had the Eliseparts remote stat fitted on my car, thinking it would help to stabilize the temp, but I discovered this weekend that the temperature still drops into the sixties when I get above 7000prm.

What’s going on?

What temp did the water drop to before you had it fitted?. I’ve had mine drop from 84 down to 56 last week when it was cold. But out in it sunday it would drop from 84 to 65.