I’m about to transfer a hub and bearings from one upright to a new one (early s1 extruded rear upright)… at the risk of stating the obvious, it appears that I need to do the following:
press out the existing hub using a suitable mandril
remove both bearing retaining circlips
press out the bearings as a pair using a big mandril (87mm or something)
press bearings into new upright 1 at a time from each side
fit the circlips
press the hub into the bearing ‘pair’…
Does that sound about right - and are there any tips or tricks?!
The bearing is a complete assembley, rather than in 2 halves. They tend not to like being pressed out, then reassembled into another upright.
You are better off replacing the bearing - get a Timken one, not a copy - a little heat on the upright helps fitting the bearing, check the dimension of the drive flange before fitting, and replace if needed - avoid some of the ‘uprated’ ones out there as they are a little ‘variable’. Then press bearing/upright into drive flange while supporting the centre of the race, if that makes sense!!!
Fixed that. Although it makes almost no difference. Except that you get the water boiling of the outside of the race if you have gone too far with the heat
So pressing the bearing into the new hub is fine (how much heat - fan oven at 100 for 5 mins sort of thing?) - then fit the circlips…
so after that, I can either press the hub into the bearing, supporting the inside inner race, or I can press the hub onto the drive flange, pressing down on (the same) inner race… does it make any odds?
Heat the upright - you’re bit high on the temp, but a little longer on the time. You need to be still able to hold it without burning yourself!!
Fit 1 circlip
Press in bearing
Fit 2nd circlip
Press in drive flange, supporting the inner race from the back of the bearing, rotating the upright as you go - if it locks up, there’s something wrong!!
And don’t bend the caliper mount when you’re pressing the bearing in
Drive flange pressed out of old bearings no bother… In very good shape (never really having been a 'road car!)
Old bearings pressed out of old (broken) upright without much of a fight (didn’t need to remove but thought I’d practice)
Went to press old bearing out of replacement upright… fully loaded it up and it didn’t budge! Blowtorch out and heated the ally casing up to ‘hot to touch’, still loaded, and waited for the ‘bang’ … but nothing! Then ran out of time so it’s winning!
Put the whole assembly in boiling water for a few mins to get it ‘moving’… then put on the press and cooled the steel race with a rag soaked in acetone…
Loaded it up, leaned on the lever and ‘bang’… moved about 2mm… it had lost the fight
Going to press in the new bearing, then mask it off and give it a protective coat of paint… then press in the drive flange…
[quote=JDS]The bearing is a complete assembley, rather than in 2 halves. They tend not to like being pressed out, then reassembled into another upright.
You are better off replacing the bearing - get a Timken one, not a copy - a little heat on the upright helps fitting the bearing, check the dimension of the drive flange before fitting, and replace if needed - avoid some of the ‘uprated’ ones out there as they are a little ‘variable’. Then press bearing/upright into drive flange while supporting the centre of the race, if that makes sense!!! [/quote]
-‘up rated ones a littlel variable’ as you know John, they can also be downright dangerous!
