Rear discs- worth uprating?

Did you fill your handbrake calipers with fluid and use a new bleed nipple to seal them up ?

I have heard if you don’t do this the dryness causes the piston to seize over time.

We used some compressed air fed through the bleed nipple to get the piston in the right place so handbrake works really well.

Ex77

I just left the fluid in the calipers for the time being and put my old flexi hoses on to use as a small reservoir for the fluid. I do however plan on removing them and using a suitable spot handbrake caliper, just need to find a way of making the brackets!

It was a fully dry track day and gave the brakes a good work out.

There is a significant difference and I can thoroughly recomend the upgrade.

Ex77

Henry,
it would make bugger all difference to me if I continue to use my boil in the bag brake fluid.
Just changed it last night and back in action.
Very disconcerting being able to touch the floor with the brake pedal as you approach that tight right-hander at the bottom of the hill!

use either Motul RBF600 or SRF and the boiling fluid problem goes away, I use rbf600 as it is easy to use, flush through and cheaper than SRF :wink:

Agree with Ade, SRF or Motul are well worth the money.

When I fitted the Rear 2 pots BOT had to use about 3 litres of brake fluid, some race blue stuff, to fully bleed the barkes. I will get it chnaged before next track day.

Ex77

I’ve stuck in Castrol react performance which is meant to be the replacement for ‘super dot 4’. I think it will be ok but just needs flushing regularly

I have a continuos stock of Motul so I can bleed the knackered fluid from the calipers every few trackdays

Essex Autosport really rate the Motul Brake fluid.

Ex77

re. uprating rear discs - another option to think about is using a more aggressive pad at the rear. i decided to have a go at this but some boiled fluid ruined my track day experiments last week. i think it’s going to do the trick though.

how far down did the bite point go ? i’m considering a switch to 4 pots and the extra hassle/expense of replacement master cylinders is putting me off but not as much as worrying about a bite point on the floor. which i’ve heard of happening on S1s at least.

The bite point came up (higher\better) and the pedal is now firmer, I think this is due to getting rid of the stupid flexible handbrake caliper it now feels much more like S1 brakes, but due to the servo on the S2 the brakes are a bit Audi like if that makes sense, they somehow feel over servo’d

Afraid it’s not worth changing to 4 pots, unless you upgrade the master cylinder too, otherwise pedal travel is less than ideal!!! For the perfect set up, you should also fit the 2 pots from the front to the rear - but that ain’t straightforward/inexpensive in itself.

Is there a thread somewhere on fitting the 2 pots to the rear including contact details of the caliper bracket manufacturer?

I’m going to continue with the castrol react dot for a while as I have it in the Elan too and so have it in the pressure bleeding tank I use. i think it just needs flushing more regularly.

Afraid it’s not worth changing to 4 pots, unless you upgrade the master cylinder too, otherwise pedal travel is less than ideal!!! For the perfect set up, you should also fit the 2 pots from the front to the rear - but that ain’t straightforward/inexpensive in itself. [/quote]

Mr P is correct if you own an S1, by all accounts it is a massive amount of grief to get it to work correctly, however on the S2 it all seems to be ok so far for me.

[quote=661]Is there a thread somewhere on fitting the 2 pots to the rear including contact details of the caliper bracket manufacturer?

I’m going to continue with the castrol react dot for a while as I have it in the Elan too and so have it in the pressure bleeding tank I use. i think it just needs flushing more regularly. [/quote]

I didn’t do a thread on fitting them, but as there seems to be some interest I’ll take some more pictures and do one when I am back from Spa, if you do in the meantime want to purchase the brackets, there are 2 sources I know of.
Phoenix motorsport do Ally ones at about �400
and a chap in Italy (where I got mine) do steel ones for about �200 delivered, PM me for contact details.

Afraid it’s not worth changing to 4 pots, unless you upgrade the master cylinder too, otherwise pedal travel is less than ideal!!! For the perfect set up, you should also fit the 2 pots from the front to the rear - but that ain’t straightforward/inexpensive in itself. [/quote]

Mr P is correct if you own an S1, by all accounts it is a massive amount of grief to get it to work correctly, however on the S2 it all seems to be ok so far for me. [/quote]

Its no grief at all, you just have to use the correct ingredients. Im sure making a loaf of bread using gravel and lemon juice would be loads of grief too.

I have just fitted the lotus AP 4 pots to my s2 with standard rears for now. Ive not tried it on track yet but the fronts seem far to powerful how it is set up now. If you say ( Ade ) putting the 2 pots on the back won’t effect the pedal travel or even make it better will it also balance the braking out better ?

I think it does make it loads better balance wise, I’m just not convinced it doesn’t need more rear which is why I want to fit 308mm discs as well, i just need to find the bells I have everything else :frowning:

good info here.

background to the decision i need to make is this:

i installed the AP 304mm discs two years ago, these are now ready for replacement. i see that the rotors can now be bought separately on eliseparts, which is handy enough. i switched to SRF fluid at the same time, never had an issue with it. already had the braided hoses.

on a recent garage job, i asked them to throw in a change of the brake fluid but completely forgot to specify what grade and got OEM.

fitted some carbon lorraine pads recently, took them to the track on friday and boiled the fluid pretty dramatically in just three laps that i was using to get the tyres warmed up.

so new rotors, new fluid coming up. i’m pretty happy with the level of braking i’m getting from the basic setup : AP at the front, eliseparts grooved discs at the back, standard calipers all round and a combination of CL pads - 8/6 to address the bias.

but i’m wondering if 4 pots up front would be a less thermally and mechanically stressed setup. has anyone done a temp comparison ? or compared wear rates ?

and when moving the 2 pots to the back - do you still have a functioning handbrake ? how much work to do this in an S2 ?

sorry about all the questions, need to get this sorted as well as getting my dampers serviced before the next trackday in 4 weeks.

Motorhead

I had thought you owned an S1 - hence my post above :wink: