Hi Guys - looking at re anodising my Eliseparts ally bells.
I suppose I should call them but the knowledge on here is likely to be more use???
Do I need new fastenings?
What should they be torqued back up to?
Is there a tightening sequence?
After messing up a pair of expensive bike disks in the past I dont want to take any risks
ta
Simon
The material of those bolts must be a specific one, better ask Hi Spec (who manufactures EliseParts disks) the type and torque setting.
But yes, in order to anodize you need to get them out, since they’re not floating they’re subjected to lots of temp and shear stress, so it’s better to change them.
I’m sure Hi Spec will be able to give you the information you need.
cheers fella - I just mailed em
AP advise to change the nuts and bolts if undone. AP ones are mega expensive as well. There about �20 for a disk set. I can’t remember the torque setting off the top of my head, but I remember thinking “bloody hell that don’t sound very tight”
Aaaahhh, but the AP ones are floating or semi-floating.
The Hi Spec are as good as rigid ones, they are torqued solid
My Mutsnuts are not torqued too much, they are semi-floating. (can’t remember the setting)
AP do floating and non-floating. Mine are non floating rigid fixings and it is those that I am talking about.
PLus what do you class as “semi” floating??? In my experiance a disk is either floating or not.
Hmmm, so is it only Hi Spec that tightens them so much?
Anyway, they’ll reply with the settings.
PLus what do you class as “semi” floating??? In my experiance a disk is either floating or not.
Rigid but not too tight
The AP nuts and bolts are 1/4 UNF and torqued to 14nm - which is indeed not a lot.
Rigid but not too tight
LOL, is that a technical term??
I’ve been out with girls I would describe like that. I much prefer the fully floating variety.
I much prefer the fully floating variety.
Sounds like Vinyl Veronique is moulded just for you, then
I think its recommended to fit new fastenings each time you fit new discs to the bells, although in practise you can probably get away with reusing them at least once. I can’t remember the exact torque but I got a figure from Geary and tightened them gradually on a diagonal pattern. The Hi Spec website states:
“If you have a two piece disc and bell they will need bolting together. They must be absolutely clean to ensure concentricity and prevent any vibration problems later on. M6 nut and bolts must be tighten to torque setting 11Nm.”
I also used a bit of threadlock for extra comfort.
must be tighten to torque setting 11Nm."
Yep, I remembered now tightening to 10Nm so about there.
I also used a bit of threadlock for extra comfort.
Which is going to burn off immediately. Same if the nut is a Nyloc , you have to use self locking nuts, basically the ones that a re little deformed at the end so that they squeeze the bolt thread and don’t come off, whatever temperature they reach.
They should be stainless as well, but which type of stainless steel? I dunno
Which is going to burn off immediately. Same if the nut is a Nyloc , you have to use self locking nuts, basically the ones that a re little deformed at the end so that they squeeze the bolt thread and don’t come off, whatever temperature they reach.
The threadlock does not burn off. I get it from a friend so don’t know what spec it is, but I do know that they do a hi temp version; or it might be because its an anaerobic product (or I could be talking bollocks!). But I know that I have to “crack” the nuts to remove them and the product is very evident in the threads when dismantling.
The nuts you refer might be know as Binks nuts.
The nuts you refer might be know as Binks nuts.
Is that what they’re called?
I like them, peace of mind
must be tighten to torque setting 11Nm."
Yep, I remembered now tightening to 10Nm so about there.
\I also used a bit of threadlock for extra comfort.
Which is going to burn off immediately. Same if the nut is a Nyloc , you have to use self locking nuts, basically the ones that a re little deformed at the end so that they squeeze the bolt thread and don’t come off, whatever temperature they reach.
They should be stainless as well, but which type of stainless steel? I dunno
The AP ones are nitrided … just for information
cheers guys - nothing heard from Hi Spec yet - emailed them back end of yesterday.
Discs will be off tonight and ready to rock…
from Geary for info…
Hi Simon
They used to supply us but not for about 1 year now.
I would like to get the bells re anodised and would like to know…
1 - do you offer a re anodising service? I’m looking for them doing in blue.
We don’t but look in yellow pages under local anodisers/platers.
2 - Can I reuse the fastenings or do I need new - If I need new how much and can I buy them directly from you??
You will need to renew all the nuts 75p each per s/steel binx nut and I would say about 40% of the stainless bolts 75p each also per low head cap head stainless steel fastener .
3 - What is the torque setting for the fasteners? 10lb ft
4 - is there a specific undo - tighten sequence? no
hope that helps
Cheers
Geary
The nuts you refer might be know as Binks nuts.
Is that what they’re called?
I like them, peace of mind
OK, nearly got it right - spelt with an x and look like this:
[image]http://www.rsrfasteners.co.uk/rsrcatalogue/pages/img123.jpg[/image]
The Binx nut has grooves cut into the face of the nut then the top is compressed, the action of threading onto a bolt then pushes against the face of the nut applying an opposing force.
Whilst I would not want to disagree with Geary, another website states that the torque resistance is maintained after many applications.
THIS PLACE sells M6 binx nuts in a pack of 10 for �3.00.
![http://www.rsrfasteners.co.uk/rsrcatalogue/pages/img123.jpg[/image]](http://www.rsrfasteners.co.uk/rsrcatalogue/pages/img123.jpg%5B/image%5D){kind=link}