Thanks Steve. These connectors are a pita! I�ve spent so many hours trying to fit everything properly and when the first pin came off was a big disappointment�
I am sure these Mil spec connectors are excellent quality ones, but I also think that you might need some special tools (and experience) to do a proper and easier job. To be honest, I haven�t really searched as much as I should about them�
But, I don�t worry at all, as the way I�ve done it now is good and maybe more hard-wearing.
I am free this weekend, so hopefully I�ll work on the car two as much as possible!
I need to finish with the body asap, adjust the seat, and start with the vehicle�s wiring.
These connectors are a pita! I�ve spent so many hours trying to fit everything properly and when the first pin came off was a big disappointment�I am sure these Mil spec connectors are excellent quality ones, but I also think that you might need some special tools (and experience) to do a proper and easier job.
You’re right, the proper MIL-C connectors require a very specific crimping tool that runs into the several hundreds of pounds. There’s loads of lookalike connectors on the market but they are no where near the same quality. I wouldn’t worry about not being able to use them as no matter how good the connector you’re still effectively adding another joint into the system, and wiring most commonly fails at the joints…
George: In my capacity as “technical consultant” to the midenginedsportscars series I thought I would try to answer your questions:
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BODY
�Must retain original silhouette in all planes�
Does this mean that I can not use side air scoops?
This applies to the body as opposed to front splitter, diffuser and rear wing which are separately defined.
Look at the car from the front. If the scoops stick out further than the front / rear clams then technically they are too wide and therefore not allowed.
REAR WING
Single plane wings allowed - must not be higher than roof height, not wider than track, not deeper than 250mm. Must not extend beyond 200mm from any part of the rear bodywork.�
I think I need some explanation of the last sentence. And according to this rule, what should be the max length of the wing?
Width - no wider than the track - ie the centre line of the wheels.
Depth - 250mm - this is the dimension from the leading edge of the wing to the back of the wing at its widest point
Height - not higher than the roof
Overhang - no part of the wing must extend beyond 200mm from the back of the car (the last bit of body - usually the centreline of the car) This is not including the rear diffuser which technically is not “body”.
Can I use a double plane wing?
No
LIGHTS
�Headlights, brake lights and indicators must be maintained where fitted to original�
Does this mean that they should work properly, too? Do I need the third brake light, the number plate lights and the fog and reverse lights, too?
In motorsport headlights, brake lights and indicators have to be working. You also need a rain light for MSA compliance. The rain light can either be the high level brake light or the fog light. You dont need any other lights other than headlights, brake lights and indicators as per the original car plus a rain light for MSA compliance.
4. FIRE EXTINGUISHER
What is the min required? I have an electrical one, 2.25 lit (Lifeline). Two nozzles in the engine compartment. Do I need any in the cabin, too?
Minimum required as per the MSA blue book. I wouldn’t race without a fire extinguisher nozzle pointing at me.
DRIVER�S PROTECTION
Do I need an FIA helmet? I have one, which has expired, according to FIA. Can I still use it for the MESC series? The same with the suit, shoes and gloves.
Any other protection is necessary, (such as specific underwear, balaclava etc)?
As per Blue Book (ie a helmet has to be of the correct type which I think off the top of my head means Snell SA2000 specification or higher; not necessarily FIA approved). It needs a scrutineers sticker available for �1 on the race day.
You do need an FIA suit as the MSA regs and FIA regs are the same. It’ll have the FIA symbol and date of manufacture on the back of the collar.
Everything else is optional; although I wouldn’t race without fireproof undies, socks, shoes, gloves and balaclava.
Sorry for the questions and thanks in advance for the help.
Hello Graham,
Now, that�s what I call support!
It�s a pity that every time I saw you during the race last Monday you were busy, so we couldn�t discuss these details in person.
Thanks for the advices (re nozzle pointing at the driver, and fireproof dressing accessories), too. I will definitely follow them.
I wouldn’t worry about not being able to use them as no matter how good the connector you’re still effectively adding another joint into the system, and wiring most commonly fails at the joints…
I think the bottom line here is that crimp connectors are [censored]!!! I only had a couple on my car and one of those gave me problems at the Brands test day and Dono Exiges day, plus took me ages to track down. I have a new rule, if it aint soldered it aint going on the car!!!
I think the bottom line here is that crimp connectors are [censored]!!!
I agree with regard to the type that just crush to crimp on the insulation. Those with a separate insulating sleeve are better, especially if you solder as well as crimp! The problem with solder only is that they can turn the joints very brittle and over time end up cracking or snaping.