Race Exige from standard Elise…

General Owners Cars
21

Right now I am trying to install my new exhaust manifold, but it seems like it is a pita job! I can�t place it in place. I removed the original one easily, but the flexi section helped a lot! This is a solid manifold� I think I�ll undo the top engine mounts, unless anybody has a better idea(?).

[image]http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i48/GeorgeLotus/DSC00267.jpg[/image]

22

Remove the oil filter and the bottom engine support.
It’ll help you rock the engine (tilt it) and you’ll be able to fit it that way from underneath.

HTH.

23

Thanks Uldis.

Well, that was really tricky! I�ve just finished with the manifold. I�ve removed both top engine mounts in order to make the required space

[image]http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i48/GeorgeLotus/DSC00274.jpg[/image]

[image]http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i48/GeorgeLotus/DSC00275.jpg[/image]

24

Looking good matey, looking good!!!

25

Ooooh! do I see an Ohlins reservoir?

I would have thought you could do it without removing the top mounts, but if it called for it…
Maybe you need shorter manifold studs? (some are very long)

You need a 2bular exhaust in the future; 3 piece and you can even remove the sump with the manifold in place!

26

Thank you very much Sean.

Uldis, yes I�ll be running on Ohlins, which is probably the best thing I have ever bought for the car!

I�ve tried to put the rear clam, the rear � panels, roof and engine cover in place today. I found it difficult to align everything together properly�

[image]http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i48/GeorgeLotus/DSC00281.jpg[/image]

I think the most important dimension and where I should start from is the height of the rear end of the clam. So, I was wondering if anybody of you could measure the distance between the rear end of the opening (on the clam) for the spoiler mount and the top surface of the longeron. Meaning the distance between the points A and B in the next photos:

[image]http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i48/GeorgeLotus/DSC00280.jpg[/image]

[image]http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i48/GeorgeLotus/b.jpg[/image]

Thanks in advance for the help.

At least, and after quite a lot of searching/thinking, I found probably the best solution for attaching the engine cover to the roof:

[image]http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i48/GeorgeLotus/DSC00277.jpg[/image]

These latches provide a secure fixing and really quick release function. The best part is that the cost less than �2 each!

27

Hi George.
Don’t really understand the measurement you’re looking for (probably too early in the morning) but incidentally was looking for a way to atach my MS cover.

Was thinking on using DZUS fasteners (1/4 turn) but the fixings you found look interesting.
How do they work? and where do you get them from?

28

Good morning Uldis,
I am looking for the vertical distance between the points A and B, so I can adjust the height of the rear clam.
You can find these latches here:
http://www.merlinmotorsport.com/product_info.php?products_id=2027
You need a small bold and nut in order to fix the bobbins to the roof and two rivets for the latch to the engine cover. You pull the latch and the eng. cover is released.
I also thought about DZUS � turn fixings, but I wanted to be able to take the engine cover easily, quickly and with no tools.

29

Aahhh, I see.
Well, I’ll only be able to measure it when I go back home from work.

Interesting locks, will see into those, Cheers.

30

Those look like the same fasteners that Lotus supply with the m/s engine cover. I had those on my car. Only problem was the part that bolts onto the roof/clam started rusting. Not a major problem, purely aestetic. I made replacements using nylon spacers.

31

Hi George, Car’s looking good!

Just wondering, did your Elise start off as a 111s?

What have you done to the engine? Is it the same as standard except for the Emerald and Throttle bodies? Does the Emerald work ok with the VVC now?

Was wondering if this was the way to go for myself next as I’ve done the usual VVC mods.

Cheers

Dave

32

Hi Ladders,
No, the car was initial a standard (118HP) Elise .
The only modifications are:
340R throttle bodies,
Emerald ECU,
Exhaust manifold,
CRP,
And exhaust final box.
Yes, the Emerald work ok with the vvc.
Hope it helps.

33

I have those fasteners, and they are fine, but if you get a bit out of alignment they can become at bit stuck…

34

Brendan,
Yes, they are the same, as I found out last Monday.

35

And now, a few questions about the MESC regulations�

I need some advices from the experts here as there are some details I don�t know/understand about the regulations:

  1. BODY
    �Must retain original silhouette in all planes�
    Does this mean that I can not use side air scoops?

  2. REAR WING
    Single plane wings allowed - must not be higher than roof height, not wider than track, not deeper than 250mm. Must not extend beyond 200mm from any part of the rear bodywork.�
    I think I need some explanation of the last sentence. And according to this rule, what should be the max length of the wing?
    Can I use a double plane wing?

  3. LIGHTS
    �Headlights, brake lights and indicators must be maintained where fitted to original�
    Does this mean that they should work properly, too? Do I need the third brake light, the number plate lights and the fog and reverse lights, too?

  4. FIRE EXTINGUISHER
    What is the min required? I have an electrical one, 2.25 lit (Lifeline). Two nozzles in the engine compartment. Do I need any in the cabin, too?

  5. DRIVER�S PROTECTION
    Do I need an FIA helmet? I have one, which has expired, according to FIA. Can I still use it for the MESC series? The same with the suit, shoes and gloves.
    Any other protection is necessary, (such as specific underwear, balaclava etc)?

Sorry for the questions and thanks in advance for the help.

36

not sure about the other points but its worth buying a bigger 3,4l fire extinguisher as they are probably going to be minimum requirement next year, I think you also need a helmet that is snell approved doesn’t need to be FIA approved for racing in the MESC

37

Thanks Dave.
So, I am ok in respect of the helmet. I will also buy the 4ltr Life line electrical extinguisher in a few days, and sell the �small� one I have.

38

probably good to bear in mind that an electrical extinguisher is more expensive to refill than a manual one
something like �100 to refill an electrical and �15 to fill a manual one and the manual ones are cheaper

39

The last days, I�ve done some work with the electrics�
First of all, the main parts I used/will use are:

The heat shields and shrink tubes:

[image]http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i48/GeorgeLotus/DSC00253.jpg[/image]

Braided cable protection:

[image]http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i48/GeorgeLotus/DSC00254.jpg[/image]

The wires (mil spec):

[image]http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i48/GeorgeLotus/DSC00252.jpg[/image]

Connectors, plugs, (some) switches

[image]http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i48/GeorgeLotus/DSC00251.jpg[/image]

And the circuit breakers:

[image]http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i48/GeorgeLotus/DSC00250.jpg[/image]

I�ve started with the engine wiring, which looked like this:

[image]http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i48/GeorgeLotus/DSC00255.jpg[/image]

Notice the length, which is extended as I used to have the ECU next to the driver.

I�ve stripped it down�

[image]http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i48/GeorgeLotus/DSC00256.jpg[/image]

until:

[image]http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i48/GeorgeLotus/DSC00257.jpg[/image]

Then I replaced some cables, extended/shorten some others, changed a few things and removed anything that is not used:

[image]http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i48/GeorgeLotus/DSC00258.jpg[/image]

Then I crimped all the cables to the pins of the connector:

[image]http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i48/GeorgeLotus/DSC00282.jpg[/image]

I�ve inserted a pin into the other half of the connector and tested by moving the cable around a few times the strength of this crimping connection. It had to be very strong in order to resist the vibration when installed in the car. Unfortunately, it just popped off�

[image]http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i48/GeorgeLotus/DSC00283.jpg[/image]

So, I decided not to use these connectors at all. I soldered the cables of the ECU connector to the rest of the harness, opened a hole at the aluminium bulkhead and just used a suitable rubber grommet.

[image]http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i48/GeorgeLotus/SOON_wiring1.jpg[/image]

Now the engine wiring harness is on the car, and hopefully is working as it should do!
Tomorrow I�ll start with the vehicle main wiring harness� That will be fan�

40

You could do with a copy of NASA Technical Standard NASA-STD-8739.4; Crimping, Interconnecting Cables, Harnesses, and
Wiring - their standard for crimping electrical contacts onto space flight wiring harnesses

or alternatively, something conforming to MIL-STD-1698 should work.