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Wow!
Some people had asked me for a detailed description before, and here it is, all in one page!

I can only add that it feels oh, so sweet!
The only addition to that is the Oil cooler now in a different location (a-la Sean_B), bigger and just below the radiator and the front undertray has been changed to one without holes (becuse the cooler is not in the previous location anymore).

Jim will be installing the second iteration of the exhaust this weekend. But then it will take a few weeks to finish the fuel pump, trumpets, gauge installation and mapping to do, since I’m off for a couple of weeks holidays.

Looking forward to it!

(Now I only need 2 way Nitrons or Ohlins 46mm)

Do you run a oil/water cooler as well as the standard air/oil one or is the standard one ok on its own now its been moved. My oil goes black within about 1000 miles normally(down to overheating i presume?.)



The only addition to that is the Oil cooler now in a different location (a-la Sean_B), bigger and just below the radiator

Do you run a oil/water cooler as well as the standard air/oil one or is the standard one ok on its own now its been moved. My oil goes black within about 1000 miles normally(down to overheating i presume?.)

No, it’s not the std one, it’s bigger, following the lead of Sean:
http://www.exiges.com/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=&Number=39088&page=15&view=collapsed&sb=5&o=&fpart=1

The black oil is most likely due to blowby. Nothing you can do about it apart from changing the oil frequently and when trebuild time comes, go for good liners, like the Chromoduro ones (or the full 1.9 or 2.0 kit)

Yeah I spoke to DVA about a rebuild, was about �900 extra to go to 1.9 so will probably do that. Just curious why enlarge the air/oil cooler is it not easier/cheaper & better to change over to a water/oil cooler and ditch the original?.



Do you run a oil/water cooler as well as the standard air/oil one or is the standard one ok on its own now its been moved. My oil goes black within about 1000 miles normally(down to overheating i presume?.)

No, it’s not the std one, it’s bigger, following the lead of Sean:
http://www.exiges.com/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=&Number=39088&page=15&view=collapsed&sb=5&o=&fpart=1

The black oil is most likely due to blowby. Nothing you can do about it apart from changing the oil frequently and when trebuild time comes, go for good liners, like the Chromoduro ones (or the full 1.9 or 2.0 kit)

Well, that’s one idea, but the other is that W/O coolers don’t give you good control over temp.
Speak to Plans MS, they did several tests and decided to stay with air/oil cooling.
Good references from many serious people.

is that W/O coolers don’t give you good control over temp.

Why not?

Surely once the oil gets really hot it starts to heat the water more than the rad can cool it and you reach a threshold and have to stop.

Ian

Must say very impressed of all your knowledge @KingK_Series
even if I only understood less then 10 % of it…

Nah… the Elise rad is HUGE. If you took the stat out you’d have problems getting the car about 70degC on track.

Even Davids TT260 never used to get above that.

It can easily cope with a bit more heat from an oil cooler. The benefit of an O/W cooler is that it heats your oil for you which is nice.

Why not?

I guess a properly matched system would, but then who assures me that for my particular engine the fixed water temp-oil temp relationship will be ideal? and to change that (if it wasn’t) you have to change the intercooler, no way to adjust it.
Also, it’s another thing to go wrong.

Don’t know, speak to Plans, they have a few ideas on why the air/oil cooler is better. That’s what they use in their race car as well.

We have the plumbing already. Might as well use it, no?

Will do

But the credit for the bigger oil cooler below the rad goes to SeanB

Why not?

I guess a properly matched system would, but then who assures me that for my particular engine the fixed water temp-oil temp relationship will be ideal? and to change that (if it wasn’t) you have to change the intercooler, no way to adjust it.
Also, it’s another thing to go wrong.

Don’t know, speak to Plans, they have a few ideas on why the air/oil cooler is better. That’s what they use in their race car as well.

We have the plumbing already. Might as well use it, no?

I would have thought MOCAL would be able to advise on the correct size of Laminova for a given application. A water oil cooler has an advantage in that the hotter the oil gets the more efficent it becomes. Same applies to an air oil cooler but, it requires an additional variable - airflow. Also a water oil cooler keeps working when you come off the track. My new engine features both retaining the Honda water oil cooler and in addition an air oil cooler with thermostat in the right hand air intake. Also fitted a remote CM oil filter, no by-pass valve, synthetic media goes down to 8 micron. Finally also fitted a SPA dual oil pressure/temp gauge. Probably an over reaction to my engine blow up but…

Any chance of seeing you at Zandvoort on the 13th of August with a few of the other Scottish Elises… or Spa in October - thought you were going to be there Sean only 9 places left…

Any chance of seeing you at Zandvoort on the 13th of August with a few of the other Scottish Elises… or Spa in October - thought you were going to be there Sean only 9 places left…


Won’t be able to go. Starting a new job but incidentally got those first two weeks in August respected as I had a holiday booked with the family to Italy.
Will be riding my bike there instead

Will be very busy starting the new job, but will try to do some of the closer trackdays, weekends if possible. Never been to Zandvoort, Spa or the Ring.
Someday…

Randy drives a standard 200hp K20A - sorry. He did tell me he thought Sean was a very good driver.

Doesn’t Seans car have a trick gearbox also ?

And doesn’t the Honda have a 6 speed too?

Don’t know, Ian, all of a sudden you mean that the std Honda is not an improvement over a 200BHP K? And all the extra midrange torque? and 6 gears?