Phoenix Motorsports

Hi, I maybe wrong but have you got austen’s old silver s1 phoenix honda? Black victories, cloth seats and converted in 2007?

My car had the original map when it was first converted, I then took it to Omex who did a revised map (removing the flat spot), and Ollie subsequently used my map on future cars.

I’ve seen first hand the difference changing the standard honda manifold can make on the honda n/a. I’ll make sure I put up the power graphs of before and after when it’s done :slight_smile: And if it doesn’t make a difference I’ll be asking for my money back lol!!

[quote=Muu]
Plan is to go see Chris Tullett for a new manifold, maybe we should do a group thing with other Pheonix cars as the design will be the same. Miles? [/quote]

Muu, I’d be more than happy to do a group buy, both for the exhaust and the mapping.

Yes I run the OMEX, I remember reading the post you linked to a couple of years ago, but I never investigated further. All I can say is I’ve never had a problem with mine, although I remember somebody saying the OMEX ecu does not restrict the V-TEC when the oil is cold (like the K-Pro ecu’s do) so I am always very careful about staying out of V-TEC until the oil has warmed up.

Hi

Interesting about the VTEC and oil temp! Will keep below 3k until warm.

I think I’ll switch to hondata on mine

[quote=MilesH][quote=Jacobite]

My NA Pheonix Elise still has the original cut and shut manifold but when Tdi had it to map it then later to put in a cold start map they told me it had 205bhp at the hubs and was one of the better they had seen, are you sure your car’s not on the original Pheonix map the early ones apparantly had a flat spot on them ?
[/quote]
Hi, I maybe wrong but have you got austen’s old silver s1 phoenix honda? Black victories, cloth seats and converted in 2007?

My car had the original map when it was first converted, I then took it to Omex who did a revised map (removing the flat spot), and Ollie subsequently used my map on future cars.

I’ve seen first hand the difference changing the standard honda manifold can make on the honda n/a. I’ll make sure I put up the power graphs of before and after when it’s done :slight_smile: And if it doesn’t make a difference I’ll be asking for my money back lol!!

[/quote]

Yes thats the one WillB had it mapped at Tdi just a couple of weeks before I picked it up and I had it back down in the October to leave it overnight to get a cold start map put in ~ Just quoting what they told me when I was down in the Oct I didnt see any figures, and don’t know anything about the engine which had been put in(thought I read somewhere that the original one went pop)and a replacement was fitted

Yes the original went bang when we were at Rockingham. Austen spent a fortune on that car and refreshed pretty much everything while he had it. He only sold it as he wanted to start racing (and currently still does in the 750 motor club - racing a fisher fury).

I’ll let you know on the manifold, and if it doesn’t make any difference I’ll be eating my own words :slight_smile:

Cool, my first step is to see what hondata can do for me.

Why don’t you speak with Omex - they can customize your map on-site surely? I don’t think swapping ECUs is going to be a simple matter of “plug & play” :wink:

The only thing that the guys at Tdi did say on the Omex was that it didnt tollerate even slight voltage drop very well and would often fail to start if the voltage dropped to 10.6V and that in their opinion the original honda unit was much more tollerant of a voltage drop

I know I havent had any bother on that front since I fitted the biggest optima battery I could fit in the compartment ~on its end

Yup it will be a new loom plus other wiring.

JUst to add, custom mapping is essential, some of the flashed maps are poor. Omex wont charge that much for a custom map either.

Cold start mapping takes a long time to get right. You really only have one crack at it a day and obviously as soon as you start the car it is warming up so you have to be very quick. It can take a number of cold starts to get spot on.

Plus I wouldn’t believe anything that I read on elise-r.co.uk. Its full of bull shit and rumour and run by a couple of twats! All in my opinion of course

Yeah not simple but I want an ECU that can handle the VTC properly before I invest in mapping it. Going to mean junking and replacing the current loom i know.

Essex autosport to install the Hondata, then off to TDI to map it.

Essex auto sport can map it(Hondata). However the the Omex will be just fine for your use if its mapped properly.

Miles’s goes like stink.

It is a major re wire to go to hondata, plus you will need an S2 ECU to run the stack.

SPS automotive have done this work so could give you a realistic quote to as whats involved. JSR are also really helpful,

I would get the omex mapped.

I’ve ran mine with the OMEX for 3 years (following a custom map) and it has never given me a problem - 40 plus trackdays, sprinting and a number of road trips.

I shall be getting the uprated manifold and going back to OMEX for another mapping session - as middo say’s OMEX did not charge me a lot for a custom map.

Obviosuly if you have doubts about the OMEX then you may wish to change it, and I know many have commented on a preference for the Hondata when supercharging. All personal preference :slight_smile:

Essex were not good for omex work though. Omex are quite cheap and prob your best option

Guys, really value your feedback. Great to hear from other omex users.

I’d love to stay on Omex and invest in someone giving it a proper map, however my confidence isn’t high in the solution. Don’t want to pay to map something that is still short of the mark, then gets replaced anyway. I’ll list my reasons and hopefully we can work through them.

The car does run now, and pinned WOT its a screamer, however part throttle conditions are irregular and low rpm manners are poor (gets stuck in a lurching cycle, only solution is to dip clutch). Now this is probably largely the mapping however worth mentioning. I’m not terribly fussed about cold start, but when cold I really need to keep the rev up as sometimes it started sound like it’s running on 3 cylinders. No way can you let it creep through traffic on idle rpms.

  • On/off VTEC cams, just one map for both cams where as OEM will select a different map depinding on vtec state. Doesn’t sound a biggie on face value but it would explain why my changeover point is set so low (3k with v little hysteresis), as to keep the engine on the high cam the majority of the time making it essentially locked into high. Then the one map it has can just be set up for said cam.

  • VTC, implementation in mine is just broken unless I am missing something. They have taken the time to plot the required VVC2 angle against rpm, however all angle sites are set to 42% in the VVC2 duty table. If all VVC angles are mapped to the same solenoid value, engine will receive the same 42% regardless. Mapping issue over h/w I know, but considering the map came from Omex I’m non too impressed (assuming I am correct).

  • Closed loop VTC, yes I know VTC again. The Omex implementation just throws out a value to the solenoid, and hopes it reaches the desired angle each time. OEM (plus MoTeC & Hondata) employ a closed loop of ‘angle requested’ and ‘actual angle’ in a closed loop lambda style. There is a different map per 10 degree of cam advance.

  • Need to poke about in mine some more, but does the 710 drive the shurlock cluster fine then? Tacho is set to ‘3 teeth’.

Why don’t you speak directly with Richard (gaffer) at Omex, if you haven’t already done so? I’m sure that he would be happy to help. Could your map may have been “played around with”, since the initial mapping???

PS I have always had a Hondata, so no connection with Omex, but I’ve met Richard a few times, & he certainly knows his stuff!

Yeah I’m with Pesky, chat to the Organ Grinder and following that chat you will know if the Omex can do all of these features that you have mentioned. That will make your decision easier.

Ok cool, main one for me is getting VTC even if it is open loop.

T

There is a significant amount of work involved in swapping to Hondata. Particularly on a Phoenix car as the wiring is a nightmare on those conversions.

I have converted two Phoenix cars to Hondata so if you’re considering it give me a shout and I can talk you through what’s required and the likely costs involved.

Personally I’d much prefer an OEM like map the drives well and controls the engine properly.

HTH

Dan