I have an exige RGB 260 with the larger brake kit (AP) fitted.
What is the procedure for removing the brake pads on these calipers - can anyone tell me??
I have an exige RGB 260 with the larger brake kit (AP) fitted.
What is the procedure for removing the brake pads on these calipers - can anyone tell me??
Can’t help with the pad change i’m afraid but just wanted to say hello to a fellow RGB owner! not many of us around!
Chalkey
Can’t help with specifics but it is the same brake set up that has been fitted to the Exige S PP since 2008.
I use these
Carbone Lorraine 4060rc5 Plus Pad
Carbone Lorraine 4115 Rc5 Plus Pad
I’ve had no problems.
Easy job on the AP 4 pots, just R clip and pad pins, then push back the pots in the calipers and change the pads. Performance Friction for me.
Didn’t like the RS14’s and too many pad delamination problems on track for me to use the Carbon Lorraine pads, a road car might be a different choice though
[quote=ade]Easy job on the AP 4 pots, just R clip and pad pins, then push back the pots in the calipers and change the pads. Performance Friction for me.
Didn’t like the RS14’s and too many pad delamination problems on track for me to use the Carbon Lorraine pads, a road car might be a different choice though [/quote]
What Ade said - Not used the Cl’s but based on various threads from highly respected Exiger’s I wouldn’t
Been on the PF’s for a while now with no issues
My 08 pp has AP 4pots on front and you need a 3mm punch to remove the two pins. These are held in place by sprung collers on the back and not an R clip
Oh forgot to say, RS14 pads every time for me
My RC5+s have been a great improvement over OEM. I would highly recommend them as a road pad and for tame track use.
I’ve found that on track when really pushing it (relatively!!) they leave a resin like deposit on the discs which cannot be good. There are horror stories of cracked and disintegrating pads on the rears but I’ve never experienced it.
I’ve got PF’s in the box awaiting a dry day ( they shaft your wheels if it’s wet when running in).Make sure you purchase them from someone who asks you the MY of your car, otherwise you might get the wrong thickness.
[quote=661]RC5+s…when really pushing it (relatively!)leave a resin like deposit on the discs which cannot be good. There are horror stories of cracked and disintegrating pads on the rears but I’ve never experienced it.
[/quote]
Yep, they’re crap!
[quote=Mr Pesky][quote=661]RC5+s…when really pushing it (relatively!)leave a resin like deposit on the discs which cannot be good. There are horror stories of cracked and disintegrating pads on the rears but I’ve never experienced it.
[/quote]
Yep, they’re crap! [/quote]
+1 RC5+'s are not good.
Tried RC6’s and they are fantastic.
My Suggestion would be PF’s or RC6’s.
Ex77
[quote=Podger]I use these
Carbone Lorraine 4060rc5 Plus Pad
Carbone Lorraine 4115 Rc5 Plus Pad
I’ve had no problems.
[/quote]
so far ,no glazing, no delamination, & no urban legends, and no problems!!!
Carbone Lorraine High Performance
Sintered Brake Pads
Now Supplied by Classic World Racing
Carbone Lorraine brake pads offer outstanding performance in all applications such as fast road, track and rally events. The blend of carbon, ceramics, ferrous and non-ferrous metals provide a constant, high friction performance together with low disc wear and good braking from cold.
Carbone Lorraine brake pads do not contain Lead, Asbestos or Nickel.
RC5 (friction coefficient μ 0.4)
Light car applications for track and road. Low wear rates and low noise level make this pad an ideal choice for use with OEM brake discs. Good for low grip situations such as road tyres, wet and/or gravel surfaces. When fitted to the rear, they will help the brake balance in non-adjustable brake bias systems.
RC6 (friction coefficient μ 0.5)
This is the original composition pad from Carbone Lorraine and has the widest range of applications in race and rally events. Good all round performance with low disc wear. The high density compound is uncompressible and so gives a harder pedal and better feel under foot. Can be used as a front brake pad with RC5 on the rear or as a rear pad with RC8 at the front.
RC6E Endurance (friction coefficient μ 0.46)
New for 2009, the RC6E offers a fairly good level of grip with a very low pad and disc wear rate. The product alone will help to reduce pit stops and gain precious time during long distance events. This product has exceptionally good thermal cycle, cold-hot-cold performance typically found in long circuit events. The minimal bedding in process available with this grade is also a benefit when rejoining an event with new pads.
RC8 (friction coefficient μ 0.6)
Designed to cope with the most demanding applications in professional motor sport such as WRC, WTCC, BTCC, LMS & NASCAR or any application involving high vehicle weights (900kg+) and high initial braking speeds. Very high and stable friction level that will help shorten braking distances. The RC8 is also available with the highly effective �R grooved backing plate option.
-R option
This unique patented feature consists of radial groves in the back plate, which provides a higher surface area to radiate heat away from the pad while also reducing the contact area with the piston, therefore reducing the conducted heat to the calliper and fluid.
That’s the longest description for crap** I’ve ever seen !!!
**(Based on others experience)
[quote=chrisexigegt]That’s the longest description for crap** I’ve ever seen !!!
**(Based on others experience) [/quote]
Based on my personal experience their great , and not based on urban legend
Calling Pesky
Unfortunately not urban legend!!
Also the 4060 front pads are NOT lotus Elise/Exige fitment, Thats why they rattle!!!Yes they go in but…
They are about 1mm shorter than they should be.
Why do I sell them
Because I dint want to turn people away, they will buy parts from somewhere else if they cant get what they want.
The 5038 4 pot pads are also to thick to go in the caliper and need to be rubbed down by about 1mm so they will go in.
i have a sort of home-bred RGB-a-like mongrel thing.
going for the 4-pot APs last year, i made a cost-based decision to take the package that came with ferodo ds2500. i was a bit reluctant having always used pagid rs-42/14 except for a brief experiment with CL rc6/8. i still have these ferodos in the front with a set of rs-14 at the back and they’re actually perfectly ok for road and track use - balanced enough although a bit of fade on track that you would not get on the rs-42s which is what i’ll probably revert to when these have worn out.
i do not recommend CL rc8 for any road driving: grumpy uncooperative noisy things that will splatter your paintwork with crap that takes forever to clean off. and on track you better make sure the fluid is proper race spec or it will boil dramatically within a lap.
Thanks for everyone’s comments to the original post