Best to get some good quality ones as well, as some of the cheap ones dont work for long and can give false readings. Im use to Jap cars and have Defi gauges which look great and are apparently very accurate. They also give a buzzer sound when your pre-set limit is reached, so dont need to look at them. If space is an issue they also do a very small screen which can display all the readings, rather than using multiple analoge gauges. http://www.defi-shop.co.uk/
You can also get them cheaper on group buys from the subaru web sites.
Need to add something here. Up until last Friday night my oil temp sender was mounted in an Elise parts sump plug. I changed my oil the night before Donno only to have the threaded part of the Elise parts sump plug shear off in the sump when I was tightening it back up. It sheared off without being tight at all. Upon investigation it was easy to see that the wall thickness of the threaded part of the sump plug was virtually nothing.
I have since used a standard sump plug and have drilled and tapped the sump.
Was it the garage next to you at Donny and asked you where you had mounted your water temp sensor. Fiiting the SPA guages to mine now and can’t remember what you said you had done. Too much excitement on the day I think !
Can you remind me where you fitted the water temp sensor.
I have fitted my SPA water temp sensor in the same place as the standard STACK water temp sensor goes as I no longer use the standard dash. However if you want to keep the standard water temp readout as well, you can actually drill and tap the housing for the SPA sensor. I did this originally as I fitted the temp probe for the electric water pump in the original water temp senders place. Obvioulsy now as I don’t use the electric water pump I have got hold of another housing and simply fitted the SPA sensor in the standard place with the aid of an adaptor which I got from “Vechicle wiring products”.
Need to add something here. Up until last Friday night my oil temp sender was mounted in an Elise parts sump plug. I changed my oil the night before Donno only to have the threaded part of the Elise parts sump plug shear off in the sump when I was tightening it back up. It sheared off without being tight at all. Upon investigation it was easy to see that the wall thickness of the threaded part of the sump plug was virtually nothing.
I have since used a standard sump plug and have drilled and tapped the sump.
My advice here is to do the same.
Sean…
Exactly the same happened to me 2 days before Donington.
On a closer inspection, the problem is that the inside thread almost meets in places with the outside thread ald leaves much less than a mm of wall thickness, didn’t measure it, but must be in the order of 1/5 mm
Bad idea.
Have the oil temp sensor unplugged now.
So, Sean, did you remove the sump to drill it? or just did it there and hoped the filter picks the swarf?
They also give a buzzer sound when your pre-set limit is reached…
Would need to be feckin loud to hear them in an S1, on track & wearing a helmet
Good point. They also have a warning light built into the gauge and you can also fit a separate larger warning light remotely, ie on the dash so you can see it. This will light up if any of the gauges go beyond the pre-set (user set) limit.
So, Sean, did you remove the sump to drill it? or just did it there and hoped the filter picks the swarf?
I took the sump off. You are looking at drilling an 8.5mm hole to tap a 1/8th NPT thread. An 8.5mm drill creates some pretty big lumps of swarf as it munches its way through. I wouldn’t dream of drilling and tapping in situ for the sake of the couple of hours it takes to remove and refit. Remember the pump itself is before the filter and it only takes a few big lumps of something hard to score the inside of your pump and then watch your oil pressure plumet