They screw in - use some pliers with long thin pincers - or do what I did, buy a special tool for the job from Eliseparts! They sell for about �10, but you do wonder about their cost to make!!!
Geary’s toll is okay but - i’ve got one but if i was doing it again i’d put the �10 er towards a set of long nose pliers… ohh actually i’ve got some… these work much better for me… my tool is left in its box most of the time… my long nose pliers work better…
Thanks again
Long nosed pliers it is then
Tony
Coppaslip in the back of the pads…
Do the disk hubs not need Coppaslipping (to make up a word)?
Ian
You mean to prevent them rusting and sticking to the hub?
No, remember they’re alloy, so no rusting.
What I do is everytime I take the disks off, if I see anything rusty I brush it with a steel brush and paint it over with a spray can.
But I’ve taken it off so many times that there’s almost never any rust.
Still, it won’t bind with the alloy.
One thing I do is whenever I find any rusty bits (like allen bolts) I take the rust off and then brush it with a copper brush. The copper kind of sticks to the metal, as after brushing the bit it’s kind of yellow.
So it resists rust much better.
Do the disk hubs not need Coppaslipping (to make up a word)?
Ian [/quote]
I needed a rubber mallet to free off the ali bells from the hub last (and only) time i have taken them off the front. This was to replace a cracked disk. I certainly put a liberal coating of copaslip on the back of the bell before mounting back on the hub. Whilst it had not rusted on, the heat and disimilar metals can cause them to bind.
Uldis
Done fronts they were easy!
How do I get pad retaining pin out of rear caliper???
Tony
Normally you would have to use a pin-puncher to punch the pin (doh!) that sits across and pierces both pads in the middle (located it? middle of the caliper, on top?)
You shuld punch it out from the inside (normal Brembo procedure). Don’t worry, you won’t damage it, just punch in the middle.
If you don’t have a small enough puncher, use a nail, just file the tip so it’s fairly flat, helps to center the end of the pin.
When it’s out, it’s just a matter of working the pads loose. then they come out.
Then when both pads are out and without taking anything else off, you will be able to slant the disk and take it out.
Reverse procedure to assembly.
Ah, and don’t forget to RELEASE the handbrake before you start anything (won’t tell you how I found out)
Thanks Uldis
I did’nt noticed a hole on inside of caliper (only on outside, but will look tomorrow - guess it’s got break dust over it.
Tony
Uldis
Just seen the hole - was looking for a hole as big as in front of caliper DOH
Will pop in to halfords and buy set of punches - thanks
Tony
You can try a nail (erm, that’s what I use)
Just used a nail - magic!!
Leaving it until tomorrow now!
PS Front was really easy can’t believe I was going to let garage charge me to do it.
Cheers
Tony
You mean to prevent them rusting and sticking to the hub?
No, remember they’re alloy, so no rusting.
What I do is everytime I take the disks off, if I see anything rusty I brush it with a steel brush and paint it over with a spray can.
But I’ve taken it off so many times that there’s almost never any rust.
Still, it won’t bind with the alloy.
I’ve been running Geary’s discs since he started them, and if I don’t use copaslip, and they are on for a while (especially during the winter), they do bind, as Steve has also said.
Also, When you mention painting I hope you don’t mean on the hub-disc mounting face surface, as this can potentially cause run-out problems which leads to DTV (Disc Thickness variation) and if bad enough brake judder. The tolerance on machining hub faces is very tight and on some vehicles they are actually ground.
So MarkA is it something we’ll just have to put up with then?
Ta
Ian
I’ve been running Geary’s discs since he started them, and if I don’t use copaslip, and they are on for a while (especially during the winter), they do bind, as Steve has also said.
Also, When you mention painting I hope you don’t mean on the hub-disc mounting face surface, as this can potentially cause run-out problems which leads to DTV (Disc Thickness variation) and if bad enough brake judder. The tolerance on machining hub faces is very tight and on some vehicles they are actually ground.
I guess I disassemble the brakes too often then, never see that problem.
And yes, I spray paint the face of the hub to avoid the rust. Don’t have any problem with runout. But then, an evenly laid out spray paint layer coundn’t vary thickness that much, it kind of squeezes in the metal to metal contact points.
And if I need to re-apply (as it wears off) I scrape all the existing one with a wire brush and some steel wool fiber.
I agrre that if applied too much and with a brush (or if it runs (it could cause runout problems and immediate judder, but DTV is another subject altogether: uneven depositions (which I have had in the past, before I ever painted the hubs.
Just used a nail - magic!!
Leaving it until tomorrow now!
PS Front was really easy can’t believe I was going to let garage charge me to do it.
Cheers
Tony
Tone
The rear is even easier because you don’t even have to remove the caliper… as Uldis describes above… just remember to screw the pistons in with yer long-nose pliers before fitting pads…
BTW - I use a nail as well…
Ian,
Unfortunatly due to the design of the hubs (they have no corrosion protection as designed) then short of copaslip there really isn’t a lot to do. My local dealer coat things like the hubs in copaslip when cars are in for a service (as they know they have to try and get the discs off again in 12 months time).
Uldis,
DTV primarily comes from continued wear on the disc caused by run-out. Pad material transfer and coning can also cause it but they aren’t the biggest culprits.
Thanks for the reminder Rox.
Not worried about working on brakes now.
Cleaning inside headlamp voids and sealing them properly has to be the silliest job! If only Lotus had done it properly in the first place!
Put copperslip on hub of mine - just in case.
DTV primarily comes from continued wear on the disc caused by run-out.
I hope everybody would notice there was something wrong with the setup long before wear starts happening, after all , we’re all driver’s, on sports cars…
Pad material transfer happens as soon as you brak ethe first time. Now, uneven material transfer is the main cause of judderisng (and there are many many reasons why that can happen)
About coning, different thing: caliper and bracketry deformation (due to heat/force or setup).
But back to the initial thing here, I agree, coppaslip is a good practice to avoid binding.
(as they know they have to try and get the discs off again in 12 months time).
Mine come off and get checked/cleaned about once a month that’s why!
I hope everybody would notice there was something wrong with the setup long before wear starts happening, after all , we’re all driver’s, on sports cars…
Why? Until you actually start to get brake judder, unless you remove and measure the run out you would never know there was uneven wear.
Pad material transfer happens as soon as you brak ethe first time. Now, uneven material transfer is the main cause of judderisng (and there are many many reasons why that can happen)
Correct there are a number of reasons for judder and run-out causes it more than anything else, I’ll add that I’m talking generic and not specific to the Elise.
About coning, different thing: caliper and bracketry deformation (due to heat/force or setup).
Are you sure, most coning issues I have seen on cars are due to the disc starting to dish from the top-hat section, due to poor disc design not allowing for the working temperatures. This then leads to uneven wear etc.
Perhaps I should mention that I worked on brake disc design and some run-out and judder issues for the company I previously worked for.
Why? Until you actually start to get brake judder, unless you remove and measure the run out you would never know there was uneven wear.
Because if you have runout you will feel it immediately as a slight vibration, longer pedal travel (due to the pads opening more) or a slight “wap-wap” at pitlane speeds.
So, there is no wear at this time, and you can correct it.
Now, if the driver is not able to feel this, he’s not in sync with his machine
Are you sure, most coning issues I have seen on cars are due to the disc starting to dish from the top-hat section, due to poor disc design not allowing for the working temperatures. This then leads to uneven wear etc.
You’re right, I was not considering other designs, as our car doesn’t have a top-hat (the S2 has a bit). In our case, coning is very unlikely (never heard of any on an Elise).
The major problem in our cars are depositions due to bad pad material, bedding in procedures and/or bad design (originals only). Some people experience overheating but there are solutions for these (I have found some, explained in other threads)
Have you had to apply your experience in any braking problems in yur Exige? I say this because you may not have had any braking problems on your Exige yet.