The kit came from Lotus and I was very impressed with what I got for the money.
You get two new front hubs
Two new rear hubs
Two 4 pot AP callipers for the front
The original front callipers now go on the back
4 AP 295 mm disks with AP ally bells
You get a kit to rose joint the rear, outer, bottom ball joints
New goodridge braided hoses
a very nice strap to help strengthen the rear tie rod outer bolt.
New master cylinder
Rear bias valve
Clutch fluid reserviour
All bolts and fixings to complete
A set of pads for all 4 corners
Its quite a lengthy conversions beacause of all the stuff you have to fit, plus I replaced most of the brake lines on the car with braided hose etc.
The initial quick whizz round the block was difficiult to gauge as the pads obviously need to bed in, but you can tell that you have a lot more slowing you down than before.
I plan to do a few more miles tomorrow and than I am off to Donnington on Sunday for a track day.
Randy better watch out you’re going to be harder to keep behind!
You found a handbrake solution Sean?
Ian
The setup is fantastic, careful not to flat spot the slicks, they don’t like that when they are warm, threw out 4 fronts yesterday from flat spotting by “guest/friend” drivers.
As far as Hndbrake goes i would suggest hydraulic and then posting part numbers of bits required, i would appreciate it alot.
My car came like with this set-up from the factory. The brakes are really great and can take lots of abuse. You do have to be careful about flatspotting tires, as mentioned.
I am umming and arring about a handbrake. I am actually half way through making a bracket to take a modiified handbrake leaver to operate a hydraulic master cylinder for a handbrake.
My considerations are, I have a friendly MOT guy, and as a hydraulic handbrake is as illegal as no handbrake there is no point on MOT grounds.
The cable for the sequential Quaife box gear hange is very very thick compared to the standard ones and it is a real squeeze to fit anything in
Weight, obviously more of it is bad
But i’ll let you know what I end up doing.
OK pricing, it may be worthwhile me splitting it all down as you can buy the bits individually. So here goes:
Disks (with ally bell) - �236.25 each
Front AP 4 pot callipers - �186.12 each
Brake hoses - �12 each
Master Cyinder - �134.67
AP Bias valve ( i went for the lever type and not the screw type) - �123.90
Front uprights - �70.20 each
Rear uprights - �112.21 each
Rear drive flange - �66.15 each
Rear race wheel bearings - �43.34 each
Rose jointed lower outer ball joint kit - �99.00
You get a few spacers and straps and stuff that are all a few quid each. Plus brake pads. I also ordered a crotch strap for the standard 4 point harnesses, this was �89.96.
Yes it will be different to a Rover K. The gearbox is the daddy so that is staying. So that means I can’t have a Honda as it spins the wrong way. I don’t want an Audi due to weight and in my opinion a turbo isn’t in keeping with the car. No offence to Mike or any other Audi folks at all, I think Mike’s car is awesome, but just not my cup of tea.
So yeah a Duratec is under serious consideration, plus I am told that Quaife do a bell housing, and even if they don’t, I made a Nissan Skyline gearbox fit in an Escort, so I’ll get the thing in there somehow.
New engine wont be until next year though, I want to enjoy this year and spend the time getting the rest of the car totally sorted how I want it.
Did the track day at Donnington today and I can report that the brakes are AWESOME. The pedal feel is also greatly improved and I thought it was great with the original setup. I was outbraking everything and taking massive chunks out of everyone going into corners!!!
The issue I have with the original bias lever is that where it is mounted in my car I can hit it with my knee while cornering and change the bias. Otherwise - it is a bit easier to make adjustments!