So my total bill was �2,730.71
Ouch!
About the same as my Honda Engine/gearbox/all ancilliaries & ECU with only 698 miles on the clock
was that a special deal you got pesky or is that the going rate for the parts? !!
Yes the bias valve does increase the braking force to the rear.
A friend of mine just bought the engine, box, all ancilaries, ECU and wireing out of a Civic type R for �900. So the stuff is available at the right money if you look hard enough.
Sean…
Erm… Sean, the bias valve cannot increase the braking force to anywhere, it just limits the pressure in a circuit.
With the standard master cyl and rear caliper it’s a no-no, as you would get less clamping force at the rear. Some people fit one at the front, but it’s a no-no, as the braking force becomes non-linear and besides, the front circuit is the most important (safety reasons).
With the upgraded master cyl and the 2 piston AP calipers at the rear, the setup will have too much rear bias, therefore the limitiang valve.
This is not perfect, as the best would be two master cyl and a balance bar.
I think somebody here has done that.
But the bias valve seems to be a good compromise.
Uldis, that’s one clear explanation. I’ve always wondered why anyone would wanna reduce the rear brake pressure further. Thanks!
What about this would you be able to use this as a handbrake device, someone posted about it on Pistonheads?.
Looks like a simple solution, but can’t see that it would work well. Surely just squeezing the pads together at the edge would make them pivot around the periphery of the disc and push the pistons back in.
The solderless nipple on the end of the cable looks a bit iffy too, OK for throttle cables but the handbrake has way higher loads. Guess it’s just a lash up for the photo’s though.
Anybody bought one of the kits and tried it ?
Bernard
I to have sat looking at the calipers i have on my dining room table, SORRY DEAR, and what occured to me was that i could cut out the area around the piston thereby the piston would move through the plate, and they would work independently of each other. Granted it would only really clamp the top portion of the disc, but would still be better than none at all if you left the car in gear to be safe when parked.
This would also mean that the plate could be thicker without creating problems when fitting new thick pads.
If it works, i consider it to be right up there with those ideas that superceded sliced bread
Erm… Sean, the bias valve cannot increase the braking force to anywhere, it just limits the pressure in a circuit.
With the standard master cyl and rear caliper it’s a no-no, as you would get less clamping force at the rear. Some people fit one at the front, but it’s a no-no, as the braking force becomes non-linear and besides, the front circuit is the most important (safety reasons).With the upgraded master cyl and the 2 piston AP calipers at the rear, the setup will have too much rear bias, therefore the limitiang valve.
This is not perfect, as the best would be two master cyl and a balance bar.
I think somebody here has done that.But the bias valve seems to be a good compromise.
I appologise for the misunderstanding, you have to remember I am from Birmingham and our knowledge of the English language is far less than anywhere else in the country.
What I should of said is the bias valve and new mastercylinder allow more braking force to the rear than the Standard setup allows. I reckon it would be very hard to lock up the rears on a standard setup as so little braking force is applied at the back. With the new master cyliner and the bias valve you can have the rears doing so much more work, you can really feel the back “hunker” down under braking.
Sean…
Thanks Sean
Has anybody taken readings of front and rear brake disc temperatures at the track? I wonder whether the rear RS14s can get up to optimum working temp…
Hurbert,
I done a very scientific test of licking the disc after a session at Brands… My tounge got welded to the discs both front and back and can confirm they’re bloody hot!
I p1ssed on them once, it boiled straight away (but cooled them off)
Does it count?
I cook brekkie on mine - bacon on the front discs, & eggs on the rear ons.
PS Flames from the exhaust do the toast, & water from the header brews the tea.
Yum, that coolant tasting cup of tea is the perfect thing to wake you up before a trackday
I cook brekkie on mine - bacon on the front discs, & eggs on the rear ons.
PS Flames from the exhaust do the toast, & water from the header brews the tea.
If you make an envelope from a double layer of kitchen foil, get a nice size trout (fish that is, before you start Pesky)stuff the cavity with a few slices of orange and some fennel herb, chuck in a splash of white wine. Fold the top of the envelope over a few times to seal, wedge it on the engine and my tea’s cooked in the time it takes to drive from work to home.
You jest but I was seriously considering doing a caserole for the drive up to croft, 6 hours at 90C and it should be just right!
stuff the cavity with a few slices of orange and some fennel herb
New a girl that was into stuff like that once, made a right mess of the sheets!!