I had a dyno run done the other day and had a peak power of 185bhp (well actually 184.9 but who is counting?!)
Two questions:
How does this compare with other NA cars. (Mine has a Pipercross VIS induction kit, Lotus Stage 2 exhaust and Hangar111 remap)
Has anyone got before and after figures for sports cat or decat? I have heard that because the Toyota engine is dependant on back pressure you get more power from a sportscat than a decat. Would be nice to have some figures to see though!
Mine dyno’d at 174rwhp (TDi dyno) with Larini Sports Cat & 2Bular 8x24" GT3 exhaust. If you use the 12% correction for flywheel loss that’s about 196bhp over a standard 189bhp.
I will say that most toyota engines don’t make the stated power output. Most NA dyno between 155 and 165 rwhp and yes the manifold, cat & exhaust can affect the power output. On NA less so but on supercharged cars it causes lots of weird things to happen.
I tell porkies only because it was done 3 years ago pre decat and pre GT Spec reflash, it was just the normal Lotus 5575 reflash and a 200 cell sports cat…it says 177 bhp at 8025 RPM 4th to rev limiter. Then there is some stuff saying Spec 141kw = 192ps
I haven’t had mine on the rollers so can’t offer a useful comparison. I’ve got the lotus sport ECU, K&N plus a stage 2.
Let’s just say it had enough power half an hour ago on cold tyres when it tank slappered it’s way up the M62 slip road… Oops steady boy! It only came back from the paint shop on Thursday.
Jonnyfox’s car must be the quickest N/A as it only weighs 700mg with all that carbon.
What we need to find is a decent N/A upgrade, there must be something significant out there from Toyota tuners. There’s no real gain from balancing and increasing rpm as 8500 is already a magnificent performance from a stock engine. More torque is what’s required lower down. I wonder if independent throttle bodies with longer inlets may be the way forward? Anyone seen any other ideas?
So let me get in this. The only way forward really on our N/A is to supercharge the engine and strip the car down and swap the fiberglass shell for carbon so it weighs as much as a redbull can. Or save up about 12k amonth for 2 years and get the Exige Hennessey Venom GT.
From what i see on trackday’s (and racing), 80%+ aren’t able to drive a standard factory car to its full potential. Start adding trick bits - suspension, brakes, lightweight this that and the other etc.etc and the goal posts move even further away.
Ask one simple question - What is letting the package down, car or driver? Once you have answered that truthfully (your only lying to yourselves btw) then spend your money in that area…
Wes,
Please take some advice from someone laid back on a sunbed in Italy, taking in the sun and dreaming about a top 5 finish on the Prom Rally!!
Why not start looking on the kev mobile sites. They will obviously have some inflated numbers quoted, but usually there is some good advice as well. Remember they have been playing with the engine a lot longer than you Exige boys!!!
I totally agree with Gav but if I have a 100mph car I will drive
it too a 100mph if I have a 300mph car I can drive it at 150mph
knowing I am not pushing my abilitys to the limit.
I am not sure how the thread drift started, but I am after more power, whilst keeping the car N/A, without spending an enormous amount.
We run the car in Time Attack and we are consistently the slowest through the speed traps; last round I was 37mph down on the fastest guy in my group yet the average lap time was only 5mph down. I always drive ‘within’ myself as the car is also my everyday driver; we run the car in Time Attack as an interim measure whilst we finish our Ultima GTR for Britcar next year, so ‘serious’ budget has to go towards that.
That said, if I can get some head work done for a few hundred quid that will give me 10bhp more, it seems like a decent cost effective addition - whilst it isn’t going to get me the 37mph I am lacking every little helps! To get on the podium in the NA class I have to find around 1.5s per lap. Not a huge amount, especially when you consider these guys are 3 litre cars so hence the issue with power.
I’m in a similar situation to Jon, operating within class restrictions and trying to squeeze the extra potential from the n/a engine.
I accept the driver training comments for a circuit however track knowledge isn’t so applicable for rallying as we rarely drive the same corner more than twice. From stage times and splits I know where we are loosing out and it’s completely down to acceleration out of the slow corners. On high speed stages the gap between us and the class leaders is less - but still a gap.
I agree with Jon, given consistent driving, another 20 or 30 bhp and some weight loss will make a significant difference to class performance. Forced induction would just move us into another class and the game starts all over again looking to close the gap on the competition.
So any technical links to tunning of the n/a 2ZZ would be really helpful to us. The other option of course is any details of a closer ratio gear set as I rarely see 5th on an event.
Talking of weight reduction I hope Gareths not stuffing his chops with ale and pizza on that sunbed in Italy or I’ll be looking for a new navigator.
Ok for engine tuning go to newcelica.org and closer gear sets look at jubu racing or monkey wrench racing, c-one gearset might suit also try the shorter diff?