Works quiet…so I thought Iï¿½d let the masses know about a little NA project I have going on…(bang for buck is of no issue fellas). Everything I am doing has been done before and owes credit to the likes of newcelica.org and posters such as Manny, Boosted etc. Lots of help, advice and parts from JSRacing and DD Performance Research especially also…
Power = to weight(and wait )
Iï¿½ve been acquiring bits and bobs for a while now… so far I have:
Piper stage 3 cams
Polished & Ported head
MWR Supertech valves
MWR Ti retainers
MWR Underdrive alternator pully
MWR water pump pully
Circuitworx oil pump complete
MWR TRD 170f thermostat
Mahle piston set 12.3:1 compression 82mm
MWR billet rods
NGK race plugs
Block, gone for cleaning and spec test
*2bular 421 manifold/decat/GT3
Head gasket set
DD Performance Research Lotus Short Runner Intake Manifold
Funny building this (not me) Iï¿½m getting particularly paranoid with regards oil starvation hence the Accusump as well… Why a dry sump, I ask as itï¿½s not too late, Iï¿½m not rushing it? Actually Iï¿½m getting paranoid about every single technical issue…
As above but I would be also doing it in an attempt to free up those last few revs out of it…
From wiki -
A dry sump offers many advantages, the most obvious of which are increased oil capacity afforded by the remote reservoir and the capability to mount the engine lower in the car because of the thinner profile of the sump thereby lowering the overall center of gravity. The external reservoir can also be relocated to another part of the car to improve weight distribution. Increased oil capacity by using a larger external reservoir than would be practical in a wet sump system allows the oil to cool and release entrained gasses from ring blow by and the action of the crankshaft. Furthermore, dry sump designs are not susceptible to the oil movement problems that wet sump systems can suffer from due to high cornering forces. If the oil in a wet sump is forced to one side in the oil pan the oil pump pickup tube can be temporarily uncovered leading to a loss of oil pressure. Because the scavenge pumps are typically mounted at the lowest point on the engine the oil flows into the pump suction by gravity rather than having to be lifted up into the suction of the pump like a wet sump does. Also the scavenge pumps can be of a different design that is more tolerant of entrained gasses than the typical pressure pump which can lose suction if too much air is mixed into the oil. Since the pressure pump is typically lower than the external oil tank it always has a positive pressure on its suction regardless of cornering forces. Another phenomenon that occurs in high-performance car engines is oil frothing up inside the crank-case due to the very high revs agitating the oil. Lastly, having the pumps external to the engine allows them to be maintained or replaced more easily.
The other good thing about Dry Sumps is that they give you BHP!!!
Simon Erland, love him or hate him, knew his stuff in this area and was privy to quite a lot of BTCC data. By running a dry sump at a reasonable pressure you actually create a vacuum in the crankcase and that gives you BHP. There are a few problems associated with this mainly to do with the oil seals. Obviously in regular wet sumped engines the seals are designed to stop oil leaking out, but in a dry sump system you need seals that stop air being sucked in. The effect will still work with regular seals but the system wont be as efficient.
The downsides of dry sumps in my opinion are they add weight, you end up with loads of pipework and stuff and the auxiliary belts that run the pumps always look a bit exposed to me.
With a dry sump you have a separate oil tank and the external pump and quite a lot of large gauge pipework connecting the two. To be fair I bet there wouldn’t be that much in it with an Accusump as they have a fair bit of weight in them.
As you know was running with baffled sump and accusump on the previous engine. Paranoid now and hence the dry sump on mine. Lots of challenges with the packaging but with you being n/a and taking the intake to the other side it should free some space for a tank.
Not sure I’ll be doing it yet Will… The $4k plus fitting etc is money I’d like to spend on my original engine when out, maybe that might get one, worst case (and I mean really ****ing badly worst case) is I drop that back in early before rebuild or best case I have the time to do this all over again but better, which is my primary goal. Two ecu’s would be nice also…