NA Build....

Works quiet…so I thought I�d let the masses know about a little NA project I have going on…(bang for buck is of no issue fellas). Everything I am doing has been done before and owes credit to the likes of and posters such as Manny, Boosted etc. Lots of help, advice and parts from JSRacing and DD Performance Research especially also…

Power = to weight(and wait :wink: )

I�ve been acquiring bits and bobs for a while now… so far I have:

Fidanza flywheel

Fidanza clutch

Eibach springs

Piper stage 3 cams

Baffled G-pan


Polished & Ported head

MWR Supertech valves

MWR Ti retainers

MWR Underdrive alternator pully

MWR water pump pully

Circuitworx oil pump complete

MWR TRD 170f thermostat

Mahle piston set 12.3:1 compression 82mm

MWR billet rods

OEM Crank

NGK race plugs

Block, gone for cleaning and spec test

*2bular 421 manifold/decat/GT3

Head gasket set

On order…

DD Performance Research Lotus Short Runner Intake Manifold

DD Performance Research 80mm short ram intake


[video:youtube]DSC_0157.AVI - YouTube[/video]

[video:youtube]DSC_0156.AVI - YouTube[/video]

Yet to get…

New water pump



MWR fuel rail

Drive chain set

Rest of gasket set

Bit and bobs…

*I can use my current 2bular 421 manifold/decat/GT3 setup but information from Manny and help from Jim may lead to something a little fruiter…

I know I’m new here but you do realise if you just chuck on a turbo or supercharger you can seriously improve your power to weight ratio and make the car quite a bit more fun instantly.


Don’t get us all started. We have all been telling him for years, until we are all blue in the face, but he wont have it.

The bottom line is, he is scared of going anything above walking pace!

Yeah I was hoping to fan the flames having been warned in advance about his irrational love of atmospheric pressure.

Nice to see someone doing something different!!

You just need to put a dry sump on there now…

Hope it all goes to plan. :slight_smile:

Thank you Gav, I appreciate that a lot :slight_smile:

Funny building this (not me) I�m getting particularly paranoid with regards oil starvation hence the Accusump as well… Why a dry sump, I ask as it�s not too late, I�m not rushing it? Actually I�m getting paranoid about every single technical issue…

dry sumps are tried and tested and proven ways to prevent oil surge and starvation. Plus they let you lower the cof even further.

I am not convinced by accusumps personally.

As above but I would be also doing it in an attempt to free up those last few revs out of it…

From wiki -

A dry sump offers many advantages,[1] the most obvious of which are increased oil capacity afforded by the remote reservoir and the capability to mount the engine lower in the car because of the thinner profile of the sump thereby lowering the overall center of gravity. The external reservoir can also be relocated to another part of the car to improve weight distribution. Increased oil capacity by using a larger external reservoir than would be practical in a wet sump system allows the oil to cool and release entrained gasses from ring blow by and the action of the crankshaft. Furthermore, dry sump designs are not susceptible to the oil movement problems that wet sump systems can suffer from due to high cornering forces. If the oil in a wet sump is forced to one side in the oil pan the oil pump pickup tube can be temporarily uncovered leading to a loss of oil pressure. Because the scavenge pumps are typically mounted at the lowest point on the engine the oil flows into the pump suction by gravity rather than having to be lifted up into the suction of the pump like a wet sump does. Also the scavenge pumps can be of a different design that is more tolerant of entrained gasses than the typical pressure pump which can lose suction if too much air is mixed into the oil. Since the pressure pump is typically lower than the external oil tank it always has a positive pressure on its suction regardless of cornering forces. Another phenomenon that occurs in high-performance car engines is oil frothing up inside the crank-case due to the very high revs agitating the oil. Lastly, having the pumps external to the engine allows them to be maintained or replaced more easily.

The other good thing about Dry Sumps is that they give you BHP!!!

Simon Erland, love him or hate him, knew his stuff in this area and was privy to quite a lot of BTCC data. By running a dry sump at a reasonable pressure you actually create a vacuum in the crankcase and that gives you BHP. There are a few problems associated with this mainly to do with the oil seals. Obviously in regular wet sumped engines the seals are designed to stop oil leaking out, but in a dry sump system you need seals that stop air being sucked in. The effect will still work with regular seals but the system wont be as efficient.

The downsides of dry sumps in my opinion are they add weight, you end up with loads of pipework and stuff and the auxiliary belts that run the pumps always look a bit exposed to me.

Dry sump vs Accusump & G pan weight wise can’t be that different can it…

�4� OMG! Any recommendation fellas…

With a dry sump you have a separate oil tank and the external pump and quite a lot of large gauge pipework connecting the two. To be fair I bet there wouldn’t be that much in it with an Accusump as they have a fair bit of weight in them.

I reckon the motor will sound very nice Jonny …
A nice howl i’d expect …
Go for that shorter manifold m8 …should open up the top end just nicely.

[quote=jfk]I reckon the motor will sound very nice Jonny …
A nice howl i’d expect …
Go for that shorter manifold m8 …should open up the top end just nicely.
:slight_smile: [/quote]

Cheers mate :slight_smile:

I’m weighing up a bloody dry sump at the moment, just peaked at Wills and Nitrons…and I really wanted those Carbon Fiber doors :cry:

looks a really cool setup, nice work dude!

As you know was running with baffled sump and accusump on the previous engine. Paranoid now and hence the dry sump on mine. Lots of challenges with the packaging but with you being n/a and taking the intake to the other side it should free some space for a tank.

Not sure I’ll be doing it yet Will… The $4k plus fitting etc is money I’d like to spend on my original engine when out, maybe that might get one, worst case (and I mean really ****ing badly worst case) is I drop that back in early before rebuild or best case I have the time to do this all over again but better, which is my primary goal. Two ecu’s would be nice also…

Cheers btw Tom :slight_smile:

I have a couple of spare pumps here which should save you a bob or two if decide to go that route.