My S1 Elige S Build...hopefully 480bhp/ton.....assembly mode

General Owners Cars
41

Mini update, started work on making the manifold finally.

After alot of thinking and trial and error ive come to the conclusion that making a manifold for an s1 exige is actually very easy, only need a little bit of short straight and eight 90* bends

Its short, simple and will mean the turbo will be centered(the image shows where the actual turbo will sit) and easy to get access to.

The turbo will sit above the head with the downpipe going over the gearbox and then dropping down to the exhaust outlet.

Also popped over to demon tweeks with my mate so he could buy some stuff, while there I bought a couple of tow straps(one front, one rear) hopefully ill never need to use them.

i didnt want to use the stock front towbar because its heavy and it rusts, so ive removed it, I did look at the stainless version, but again its weight I dont want to carry.

Ive worked out how to mount the front using the 3 holes in the top of the crash structure(one off the old towbar) and 2 extra ive added for the splitter tie bar, ill use a piece of spare 5mm ali bar between those 3 holes with the towstrap in the middle one which will help spread the load if it does need towing out…simple and lightweight :slight_smile:

The rear I wont know yet until I put the rear clam back on, put im hoping a longeron is in the right position

Just bought my wheels today

16x8 et 20 fronts and 16x9 et15 rears, so fairly extreme.

on the fronts ill be running 20mm hub adapters from 95.25 to 108 and on the rear 25mm adapters from to either 100 or 108 depending on the studs.

so the fronts will stick out 20mm more than exige wheels and the rears will stick out 21mm more than exige wheels, but ill be running alot more camber than a stock exige so my calcs say with will be just about ok.

In an ideal world I would only be running 15mm adapters on the front but they cant be made that small, I have wondered about having the inside face of the wheel machined to take off 5mm but not sure where to take it to for them to do it as even though theres alot of meat on them, some places might be concerned about doing it.

the reason for the width is im running 225s on the front and 265s on the rear, this should balance the car out compared to 245s rear and allow a massive amount of grip

42

Another update on the front end.

Went down to collect my front clam today after having a set of canards made for it,

Got home tonight started to fitted them.

You can see they are fairly wide, its easy to add rear downforce, the front is where the hard work goes in.

I then put the clam back on the car to see how it looks

this only shows 3 as one was slightly wrong so will be getting it remade when I get chance.

Ive got a low downforce set as per the pictures and a high downforce set which is more at a steep angle, ill be trying the low downforce set first to see how the aero balance is, then keep turning the rear wing up till I get understeer then put on the high downforce to see if it balances out and if it does truely add more downforce

Next up was to fit some tiebars to stiffen it up, now on the previous splitter I made the mistake of fitting the front tiebars to close together and ended up with the corners a bit to flexable, this time ive ran them out fairly wide to try and stop that, also because it sticks out more at the front i need to reduce flex.

Next thing for me to do is hook up 2 more tiebars to the outside rear sections just infront of the wheels to stop and droop there, I also have one tie bar after that which I might but in the middle depending on how it reacts at 100mph.

i also have some large end plates to fit to the ends of the canards which will then be bolted to the splitter aswell so that all the downforce is spread throughout the front end rather than risk having a component flex

Also refitted my rear clam with all the rear section cut out, it saves weight, reduces drag as it gives the inlets somewhere to go and also helps vent all the hot air from the engine.

The next job is to fit the rear wing and the place at made the wing is also going to make me a set of kevlar doors with polycarb windows which should save about 26kg total.

43

Holy fecking jumbo aero lol! :sunglasses:

44

This!! ^^^

Don’t want to be a downer, but if those canards work as you hope they do, I can see them either bending or pulling out of the body.

If you can stop either of these happening, I do hope you have some pretty stiff springs to stop the tyres coming out through the top of the bodywork??

As a rough guide, if you can’t stand on the splitter without it breaking, then its going to break when any meaningful down force is applied.

Somewhere I have some pics of the rear wing pylons from a customers car. Bear in mind that I could sit on the wing and nothing moved, they bent back and down at somewhere between 150 and 170mph.

Don’t underestimate the weight of air at speed, it becomes a real pain and stops being your friend - down force - and starts doing all sorts of horrible things to everything it can get at!!

45

Pikes peak aero!!!

46

Damn them’s some big ol’ aero bits fella! If it all works, mount them upside down and glide between Paddock Hill and Druids :wink:

I thought Jamie had gone a bit mental with his front wing etc but his is positively understated compared to your aero package.

I remember seeing a pic of the (relatively tiny) LotusPower front splitter deforming at Eau Rouge on MarkA’s car and also witnessing the event on the wing pylons of the customer car John referenced. Both reminders that there’s some serious forces at play at any meaningful speed. If you manage to keep them attached to the car won’t they create serious drag?

47

Yes, both Lift (downforce!) AND drag increase as the square of speed! (L = 1/2pV2S) :wink:

48

Ive been working on the canards tonight, i have some carbon wing end plates spare that im using as end fences for the canards, at the bottom of the end fence it connects up to the splitter, the rear tie bar comes out of the crash structure, through the chin spoiler, through the carbon panel to connect to the end fence then through the carbon splitter, this means the canards have there downforce spread though the clam, chin, crash structure and splitter(which is bolted to the chassis) which im hoping will help, as soon as the engine is up and running ill be taking it for a spin down the quiet local dual carriage way at a sustained 100 leptons with my friend taking pictures of the front end to see if theres any flex, I cant really test it at 140mph as i cant expect anyone to follow me and it would be getting a bit dangerous on the road.

Im going to be starting with 650lb front and 850lb rear, if I need to increase then im happy to do so as springs arnt expensive.

Ill be rev limited to 148mph so as long as I can get to that figure without anything moving ill be happy



There will be alot of drag I would have thought, but as mentioned alot of downforce aswell, the good thing is its easier to remove parts than make more of them, so if I find im faster around a circuit with less downforce(silverstone national for example) then its 5mins unbolting.

It would be very interesting to know what thickness of ali the pylons where and also if they had triangles cut out to save weight, ive just designed my pylons tonight and im dropping the ali sheet off at the waterjet company on tuesday, ive done it so that with the trianges it there is always 3cm of ali all around the triange, if John knows something I dont then im all ears as if it bends on track ill end up having to make another which will be a pain.

49

Is there anything in the regs about dangerous body work? You could take someones leg off with that lot trundling through a paddock.

As for the Road Traffic Act…

50

attach a go pro on a pole to the front of the car so you can record a vid of the flex under speed, just try it at 100, then 110 and so on.

enjoy

51

there are no aero limits, you can go as big as you want, if you think my aero is big, wait till you see olly clarks gob stopper 2 or infact a few of the time attack cars, what im doing isnt anything different than them, its just im doing it to a very small car so it looks more extreme.

And aero on the road, well for an IVA you should put edging on sharp edges which the splitter is fine for but not the canards

52

Olly Clark (being older) used to give me dead arms at school :laughing:

53

Original inner wing pylons were made of 2.5mm ally, but each side of the wing had an inner and outer. This had worked fine with all the Autobytel/one make cars without a problem. They were geared for 130 ish, but don’t think that they ever hit the limiter in 5th. Also had previously worked fine on out race car with Audi engine, vmax even at Spa on a test day was 150 ish.

On the one that bent the pylons back, it had a wider wing, but the same chord, fish shape and height above the clamshell. Increased the thickness of pylons to 5mm from memory, but that was a quick solution that was probably a little overkill.

54

There are no aero limits…yet!!! It’s not looking good on that front, well at least for the Club Classes, so keep your fingers crossed!!

As for Gobstopper 2, it only made a tiny bit more peak downforce than mine in the wind tunnel, but an absolute shed load more drag and was very, very rear biased. So it’s looks are in fact a whole lot more extreme than the aero effect all the devices create. I guess an Impreza hatchback isn’t all that great a car from an aero perspective.

55

John, my first set of 2.5mm pylons bent/bowed quite badly and I ended up making each side out of 5mm material, giving 10mm each side to mate up with my 10mm thick wing supports. My old Eliseparts 5mm wing supports bent too!!! What I’ve never known however, is how much loading the two rear box section/longerons can take which they are attached to?? We reached just shy of 170mph on the Silverstone National circuit a couple of weeks ago without problems, so I suppose that’s proof of the fact they are strong enough.

56

The outer pylons stayed at 6mm, with a few cutouts. So far 190mph at Brunters and all is good!! :smiley:

But not got the same twin element wing as you, as trying to achieve a different thing to you at the moment. Yours is all about lap times, ours at this point is vmax, so the smallest amount of drag/downforce to stop it form moving around at speed.

57

Ive also been in touch with the scruttineers about it and I agree it doesnt look good, they havent decided how much to restrict it by but they will be for anything but pro class.

For fun I might just enter pro, Ill probably be last but ill just compare my times to what the club guys are doing, I dont think you can be demoted a class for going to slow anyway, im not bothered about winning a championship, I just want to go as fast as possible

if you dont mind me asking, what do you pay dunlop for your slicks, just wondering how they compare cost wise to kumho road tyres

58

Fitted the larger of my rear wings today, took a fair bit of thinking and calculating so that i can choose the right levels of AOA to make sure it works properly, but all works now and can move from 5-18 degrees.

Just waiting on my large end plates for the wing then I can add a upper element to finish it off.

I can put my full weight on 1 of the pylons(108kg) and no movement which is a good sign.

I know there has been a worry about it flexing from side to side, so the next job will be to cross brace them together, im thinking tiebars but not 100% yet.


Also ive taken doors off to have them moulded in kevlar, should have them about the 12th of october,

worked out that using kevlar doors with polycarb windows and small mirrors it should save around 13kg for door, so 26kg saving total which should cover for all the extra weight ive added with aero and turbocharging.

59

i reckon the most cost efficient weight saving could involve that 108kg bodyweight :wink:

60

thats the winter project, 20kg to come off me will help