Try the 5-2 diet, it works. I’ve lost a stone
How does that work??
You might want to think about changing your range of angle movement slightly before you set it all in stone. 18 degrees is very, very steep and 5 degrees is also fairly steep as a minimum angle. For example, I run my main element down as low as 4 degrees nose up. i.e -4 degrees. And even at it’s steepest I reckon I’ve only used it at about 5 degrees ish. Don’t forget, the air isn’t hitting it straight on and is actually coming from above. At 18 degrees you’ll effectively have a massive airbrake!!!
I did think about the air not hitting it straight on so I thought if I start with 5 degrees that might be the equivalent of 10 but it depends on how well the air stays attached the engine cover, good thing I still have a bit of space on the front of the wing to raise it up if needed to get closer to 0 degrees.
Taken you advise about the second element for the wing and ordered it today, will be collecting it when I get my doors
When you first put it in the wind tunnel and you were about 90% rear biast, what sort of rear figure did you get and what sort of angle was the wing set at, I know our wings arnt identical but if I have a bit of data to work from in terms of downforce numbers it will be able to get my head around setting the car up without a wind tunnel
Well when we started the test we had about 315kg’s of downforce at 100mph with about 92% of that at the rear. It would be quite as bad as that in the real world though as Mira doesn’t have a moving floor. That was with the main element of the wing set at about 0 degrees, but the 2nd element at full angle. We then reduced the flap angle several times and even took it off completely near the end.
Due to the fact that we are now generating a shed load more front downforce with the new splitter which is twice the size of the one we used in the wind tunnel, we have obviously been able use the twin element wing as intended, but we aren’t even close to maxing it out. We basically run the main element at 0 degrees and the flap about halfway through it’s adjustment. With a straight edge across the whole assembly, i.e both elements, that probably equates to about 15 degrees ish.
To get the same amount of downforce from the single element alone, we’d have to run it very aggressively indeed and it would produce a shed load more drag for the same outcome. That’s the beauty of the 2nd element.
I managed to lose 19kg in 6 months 2 years ago! Problem is 17 of that has gone back on!!!
… weight loss for men… a losing battle! 
Corrected for accuracy Pete!! 
PMSL Dave!!! 
Mini update, having the subframe mounts waterjetted this week so hope to have the seats in by the weekend, also we made our last trial fitment of our turbo to check everything clears, looks pretty good and ill probably use the roof scoop to either feed the air filter or to blow air on the turbo to keep engine bay temps down
manifold on
turbo mounted
then just need to sort oil line and return then the downpipe which will run over the top of the gearbox, the guys making everything have put alot of thought into so aslong as the engine holds together I can see light at the end finally.
Another thing we did this year which worked really well and which you may already have considered, was to put a thin stainless heatshield between the turbo/manifold and the head. It’s such a basic thing, but reduces the temperature the head sees massively and is a real must.
Thanks for the info, was it right you were running a 100mm splitter in the tunnel and now up to a 200mm?
I started with a 100mm ply splitter then moved over to a 200mm carbon one to hopefully make more use of the wing, looking at the wing data im guessing your wing is producing around 200kg of downforce at 100mph(depending on your end plate sizes)
that at least gives me something of an idea to work off, the main thing I need to work on is making sure i can get enough front downforce now, with a big splitter, canards with end fences and full skirts im hoping its enough, the only thing I need to think about is do i shorten the diffuser, currently the end of the main element sticks past it by about 15mm, which means the second element will be fully past that, I know about the wing helping the diffuser scavage the air underneath to help lower the pressure and increase downforce, but I made the diffuser without thinking I would run the wing this far back(i was thinking about putting it in the stock exige position)
One thing I did wonder is what you have done about the front section of the ali tub, ive kept my splitter pretty wide there so that there is less air to interact with the wishbones and hopefully less air getting underneath the vehicle from the high pressure wheelwell, mine comes out to the ARB link, I could go bigger but I wasnt sure what wheels i would end up running.
Yep, in the tunnel the splitter was 100mm and flat. Now it’s 200mm with the front edge rolled up to allow the airflow to stay attached as it rolls underneath and onto the flat floor.
Regarding the downforce the wing makes, well you also have to take into account where the wing is. Obviously the further back it is, the more leverage effect there will be. We didn’t have time to test this, but if I’d mounted my wing where the original one was, I’d probably have had far, far less rear bias. I didn’t want this though as I wanted it in clean air and to interact with the diffuser.
My front section just goes out as wide as I can really, taking into account the wheel position at full lock. I haven’t added any extra material on the side of where the battery compartment is, if that’s what you mean. Ran out of time. I also didn’t get the opportunity to create a venturi in each side of the splitter, venting up into the wheel well. This is something I’ll do now though.
Thats one thing I have been trying to research alot on recently to see how much the splitter venturi(small diffusers) would have on how effective the splitter is, ive struggled to find any proper info on it which stopped me from pursuring it further as i wouldnt know angles and where should it start, I did see the pictures of the voltex version on cyber evo which seemed a good place to start though.
I got my splitter as far back as the centre of the wishbone, I couldnt go any further as then I would have had to reduce how far my splitter stuck out(the piece of carbon I got wasnt big enough to do it all, but when its free you cant complain to much) so will probably add some thin pieces to fill the gap in.
Hopefully you’ll take this as constructive, but wouldn’t you be better spending the time ensuring the engine/drivetrain and setup is reliable and spot on? If I recall you are running a turbo K - which is hardly considered a reliable solution - spend time here now and at least you’ll get seat time in the car which will probably improve your times more than any aero mods ?
Aero would be the last thing on my list to consider…
… and the interesting thing about ‘aero’ is that is really does not start ‘talking’ until about 80 mph… and ‘low speed’ aero is a very complex animal indeed!
I reckon a very well set up Exige, with the emphasis on mechanical grip, power usability, braking and handling balance but with all splitters and spoilers removed, would probably be a tough machine to catch around most circuits…
… but still, a great project and obviously great fun doing as well. 
I understand what your saying but ive been let down by someone who was making my manifold so had to go with someone else hence the delay, so to keep myself busy while I wait ive been working on my aero, it keeps me busy and motivates me at work because my bonus pays for the bits im fitting.
If my engine was done and dusted months ago i would be spending more of time on track ironing out the bugs.
Another little update, earlier in the thread I showed some pictures of the wheels I have bought, well the measurements I was told werent correct and would mean that the wheels wouldnt fit over the front calipers unless I ran massively thick spacers.
So they got sent back and i got a refund and bought a set of rota slipstreams.
The plan is to use these only on the front under 2 conditions, the 16x8s will have a set of kumho v70s which ill use in dry weather and the 15x6.5 will have normal road tyres for wet conditions.
The rear ill be running a set of rota gtrs(as its the closest looking 5 spoke in 4 stud i could find) in 17x9 et 25 with a 35mm hub adapter
Also cut my seat subframes out today, tomorrow ill put them in the bender to put a 50mm 90 degree bend in them so they can bolt to the chassis
At the moment I havent lightened them yet, mostly because im not sure how much I could pull out of them without weakening them to the point where they might flex in the corners, im hoping somebody might give me a few clues on that front, looking at other companies I can either put holes into it or take more out of the centre to give it more of a U shape.
But for the moment I stuck them on the scales and they weigh 1.46kg for a pair so added to the 3.02kg for the seat means im saving 10kg on a pair of seats over stock.
Next thing I did was try my 16x8 on the front to see how if they work.
When the wheel is down and the suspension compressed, on the outside the wheel is inside the edge of the arch by 15mm, then when moving the wheel through its steering arc it clears the steering arm joint by about 3mm!! and under full lock clears the brake line about about 10mm.
So they are et12, I would say in an ideal world they would be about et5 as that would allow just a bit more clearance, but they should work as they are, might have to trim the splitter on the inside aswell but will know when my tyres are on.
How thick are those ally seat mounts? Must be quite thin if you’re able to bend them…
They are 5mm ali as per fia/msa requirement and are fairly beefy they can only be bent with a proper bending machine, not with a hammer or by hand
I get the feeling that people here ain’t giving you proper credit occasionally …
I think you’re doing a decent job of most things.
Keep it going buddy 