Came up with the great idea of reducing my exige to its component parts this weekend in a bid to prepare it for racing, have a couple of questions i have spent along time on the interweb searching with no real joy! I would love some help on or just perhaps an opinion
2009 exige s
battery relocation, if i put the battery in the front where the heater matrix was can i just wire straight into the power via the jump lead bits under the front access panel??
2.When removing the fuel tank do you have to remove the gear linkage cables if so which end is the best to undo??
need a new boot lid with no holes and single skin does anyone do one or can anyone recommend a good fibre glass guy??
the traction control system when last testing would not turn off its the adjustable one and i was told if i held the T/C button down for 5 secs it would turn off but no ??
If i do away with my front oil coolers and put a cooler behind one of the side ducks like every gt3 i’ve seen is this ok or not so much ??
Is the only induction option for a sc exige the trd airbox or is there another option??
If anyone could shed any light on the questions that keep me awake at night that would be very very awesome
ps sorry for the silly amount of questions once i started typing it just brought up some stuff
If you find a source for a single skin boot lid then please can you let me know as well.
If the rear mounted oil cooler does the job then that sounds like a good weight saving. The front ones seem quite vulnerable to stones and large objects like Armco and other cars.
I’d love to but I’m on a low carbon budget I’d like to fit a single skin fibreglass lid. I thought Elise spares were going to do one at the same time as the lightweight 260 roof but I haven’t heard back from them.
Just leave it where it is and use a lightweight race battery (big weight saving and wont leak under cornering force). Race scrutineers like to see the battery terminals clearly and its easy access in the boot.
Sounds like you dont know what your doing>>> Anything to do with fuel tanks, fuel lines and associated equipment leave to someone who does. Soon as you start messing with that stuff your asking for trouble if its not all prep’d and done in the correct manner.
Can’t help you there!
Traction control is on its maximum setting every time you start the car up. To turn it to the ‘adjustable setting’ or ‘off’ altogether you have to hold the button down until the yellow t/c icon appears on the dash, also the center of the button should light up yellow. You now have the car in adjustable traction mode which is completely ‘off’ when you turn the dial all the way to its lowest setting. If you have done all that and it still has t/c activated try winding it all to full and try it again (sounds silly but it maybe wired in backwards). still no joy then a trip to a dealers perhaps…
If your going that route I’d do away with the oils rads altogether and put a triple pass water rad and laminova cooler kit on instead. Saves loads of weight, removes vulnerable parts at the extremities, brings oil up to temp much quicker and is good for when you come to do the oil changes - You cant easily get the 1.5 litres of oil out of the coolers and hoses with the front mounted set up…
The TRD air box is good for well over 300hp, has relatively easy access and the filter panels are cheap. leave it as is and just change filters often.
As the joke goes I wouldn’t start from here. Why strip a 2009 S, wouldn’t you be better selling and getting an earlier 2006 model? You’re going to end up throwing a lot away when you upgrade it anyway.
Most seems to be answered above, but re the single skin engine cover, I got mine from [u]this guy[/u] on ebay.
He sells the full engine covers so I just contacted him and paid for the single skin instead of the full thing. It was molded from a pre 2010 car so had he little indentations where the wing would go, but just filled these. Have it fitted with aerocatches. With ali mesh saves about 10kg over the std setup.
[quote=evo_ufo]As the joke goes I wouldn’t start from here. Why strip a 2009 S, wouldn’t you be better selling and getting an earlier 2006 model? You’re going to end up throwing a lot away when you upgrade it anyway.
Most seems to be answered above, but re the single skin engine cover, I got mine from [u]this guy[/u] on ebay.
He sells the full engine covers so I just contacted him and paid for the single skin instead of the full thing. It was molded from a pre 2010 car so had he little indentations where the wing would go, but just filled these. Have it fitted with aerocatches. With ali mesh saves about 10kg over the std setup.
[/quote] The idea is to have “no mesh”…The air flow starts to attach as it comes over the roof, mesh is what you don’t want…smooth solid…
I’ve got the tilting clam fitted to my exige. Its not brilliant IMO, as it puts the whole load of clam through the hinges that are mounted to the boot floor. Once you’ve unscrewed everything, you might aswell just lift the clam off as the hard bits done which is what I do.
The quick release fittings are useful though - Basically they are thumb screws that replace the standard bolts in the rollbar cover, boot and inside of the clam. Only takes about 15 -20 minutes to remove the clam including removing the sidescoops and hardtop.
I’d like to fit a single skin fibreglass lid. I thought Elise spares were going to do one at the same time as the lightweight 260 roof but I haven’t heard back from them.