I agree Lotus might be being a little optomistic or the clutch needed changing after that one run to 100 with spray glue on the tyres
If we were given the company’s press car and didn’t have to get it fixed afterwards, I’m sure we could all shave a good 0.5 second off our best 0-60 times.
Haven’t you noticed that hire cars go a lot faster than privately owned cars as well!!
BTW: cpia2002
Seeing that you’ve used a performance meter to obtain your times, I’ve created a topic here. Not that I doubt your numbers in any way - but I’m curious as to how accurate these performance meters work. I might be interested in getting one too, if it proves to be accurate enough to be representable. Given you own one of these, I’d be interested in your take on it and perhaps some of the features it offers and what data it requires for any reading.
Thanks in advance,
Cheers Phil
Hi,
Ive got both the Ap-22 and the racelogic v-box (the cheaper version) and prefer the ap-22 as you can calibrate it to your local drag strip where with the Racelogic box you can’t.
I used Crail raceway in Scotland as its the only one we have here.
At first i was getting very similar numbers to that autobild article to 100- about 10-10.5 and i was really frustrated as i had got 11 before with the standard exige s.
I did hundreds of runs over the last couple of months , mostly from 30 to save the clutch (i can send you the data file) and as i got better and realised what made a difference i got better times.
If you are doing a standing start LOTS of times the engine gets very hot and the harder you try the worse your times get with the Komo-tec 280s ( this may be the same with all conversions i dont know) so if i did a bad run to start with i would leave it for a while and do another one.
I eventually got the times i showed on the forum with the same settings after running it in for longer and longer and driving it harder and harder (The car is still onlly 7000 miles) so i imagine this makes a difference too.
Also i tried many different ECU maps as i knew the car could do better.
Finally it is very cold here in Scotland now and i could probably get even better times as that effects power etc in the supercharger but i was getting too hung up on chasing numbers and it was driving me batty!!!
If you do get a performance meter go to a drag strip and make sure it is getting the same results otherwise you can flatter your time or make it worse when you change things.
If in doubt set it at the worst case scenarios and your times will be pesimistic but more real.
They are fun but i don’t know if it will satisfy your need for speed you will just always think i can go faster!!!
Theres another komo-tec thats just made 274Bhp in the uk; but that was dyno’d as soon as the kit was run in, so that should make a bit more pwoer in 4000miles time.
I dunno, just giving my experience.
If your across in the Uk and wanna get together let me know and we could dyno the cars together if you like
just a suggestion…why not go for the forcefed Exige S upgrade kit ? it’s got a different approach to gaining more power: bigger injectors, larger pulley wheel, custom ECU (EFI)) friends of mine across the pond rate it very highly.
Best of all it’s approx $4,000 which in our money is �2k. If I keep my car (which looks likely now) this is the route I’ll be choosing, not only due to the much lower cost but also because of the EFI.
At first i was getting very similar numbers to that autobild article to 100- about 10-10.5 and i was really frustrated as i had got 11 before with the standard exige s.
I did hundreds of runs over the last couple of months , mostly from 30 to save the clutch (i can send you the data file) and as i got better and realised what made a difference i got better times.
If you are doing a standing start LOTS of times the engine gets very hot and the harder you try the worse your times get with the Komo-tec 280s ( this may be the same with all conversions i dont know) so if i did a bad run to start with i would leave it for a while and do another one.
I eventually got the times i showed on the forum with the same settings after running it in for longer and longer and driving it harder and harder (The car is still onlly 7000 miles) so i imagine this makes a difference too.
Doing drag times isn’t particularly easy and kudos to you for trying (and achieving them). I’ve only tried a few attempts in mine and am convinced can get close to those times on a good day when I don’t mess up the gearchange - meaning very quick gearshift and getting 1st into 2nd right. Compared to yours, my car still has the cam change at 6200 rpm and while it doesn’t fall into a hole if you fall below 5800, it does cost time that might mess up a good 0-60 or 0-100 time easily. The other thing is, getting the clutch in at the right rev spot to achieve optimal slip/grip at the rear tyres. Most of the time, it isn’t worth it to me though and I find me more trying out inexpensive in-gear performance tests, like 2nd gear 4000 to 8000 rpm etc (without any gearchanges).
I could get a ECU update to bring my cam change down to 4500 rpm as well and while that would give even more torque in the midrange, I like the non linearity of the engine. I guess I prefer the thrill it provides, over the speed increase I’d gain…
Finally it is very cold here in Scotland now and i could probably get even better times as that effects power etc in the supercharger but i was getting too hung up on chasing numbers and it was driving me batty!!!
Temperature can be your enemy too though. I noticed last weekend that the grip on a 3�C cold road is ZERO. Anything other than gentle throttle, results in plenty of wheel spin. Cold air also gives more drag as well. Good on the dyno (high HP), but not necessarely on the road… I guess it all depends what you want to “messure”. Best-case scenearios are always good for pub talk though.
If your across in the Uk and wanna get together let me know and we could dyno the cars together if you like
Thanks! Don’t have any plans to visit the UK, however I’m doing a trip down to the south of France next summer…
Matt,
I’ve been thinking of going this route too. I’m only Derbys way so pretty close to you. I’d love to see how you get on.
Also been talking to Paul, (cpia2002), and of course Greg and Hanger111
I’ve sent you a PM.
Cheers
K
Dude local too, keep in touch mate…
There may be another option coming soon, so watch this space. Very secret squirrel just now
There may be another option coming soon, so watch this space. Very secret squirrel just now
Why the secrecy?
Can’t divulge anything till its finished and the numbers are done and prices worked out, I will post as soon as I can with pictures etc. I hope it will rivel the Komotec for power but with some of the drawbacks removed and hopefully a bit cheaper too As I can I will post what I can.
Can’t divulge anything till its finished and the numbers are done and prices worked out, I will post as soon as I can with pictures etc. I hope it will rivel the Komotec for power but with some of the drawbacks removed and hopefully a bit cheaper too As I can I will post what I can.
What are the perceived drawbacks?
This is of course just my opinion but I think the charge cooler setup is compromised and could cause several issues in the future if it does not already. I am not in anyway saying it is no good just a think there is better ways of designing a charge cooler for the “S” If I had not been in a position to get involved in other ways of upgrading the my car I might well have gone for the Komo-tec
What issues are there with a charge cooler ? I have one and can see out the back…
No issues with a charge cooler, just the Komo-tec one I personaly think is compromised. A correctly designed one that fits above the engine could be easily designed.
No issues with a charge cooler, just the Komo-tec one I personaly think is compromised. A correctly designed one that fits above the engine could be easily designed.
I’m interested in all the options available so please keep me posted.
I’m not making a decision for a couple of months. I hope to see Matt’s Komo-tec in Notts.
Cheers
I certainly will keep posting when I have information, as for the Komo-tec cooler if you look at the S intercooler being rather high up and the detrement of high up weight, imagine if you put it in a box and filled it with water? I would not want that amount of weight that high up behind me, all that extra weight has to be bad? Also it was designed to be air to air not air to water, the disign is totally different…
When will you car be finished?
I certainly will keep posting when I have information, as for the Komo-tec cooler if you look at the S intercooler being rather high up and the detrement of high up weight, imagine if you put it in a box and filled it with water? I would not want that amount of weight that high up behind me, all that extra weight has to be bad? Also it was designed to be air to air not air to water, the disign is totally different…
I think the Komo-Tec philosophy was to design a water-cooling solution that is easily upgradable for existing Exige-S owners and keep costs down at the same time. Have they succeeded? Probably, though I wouldn’t want to have such a solution in my car - that’s for sure.
IMO, the best thing would be to remove the S intercooler all together and replace it with a better working charge-cooler. Regardless, the heat in the engine bay, especially above the engine can’t be good - regardless the cooling method (though an air-cooler is easily more affected by it).
I certainly will keep posting when I have information, as for the Komo-tec cooler if you look at the S intercooler being rather high up and the detrement of high up weight, imagine if you put it in a box and filled it with water? I would not want that amount of weight that high up behind me, all that extra weight has to be bad? Also it was designed to be air to air not air to water, the disign is totally different…
I think the Komo-Tec philosophy was to design a water-cooling solution that is easily upgradable for existing Exige-S owners and keep costs down at the same time. Have they succeeded? Probably, though I wouldn’t want to have such a solution in my car - that’s for sure.
IMO, the best thing would be to remove the S intercooler all together and replace it with a better working charge-cooler. Regardless, the heat in the engine bay, especially above the engine can’t be good - regardless the cooling method (though an air-cooler is easily more affected by it).
Does the Komo-tec modify the existing air intercooler and convert to charge cooler then. I though it was a replacement.
AFAIK it is a water jacket that surround the original intercooler, that certainly seems to be how it is sold. Certauinly not my idea of good design, but as stated probably cheaper than a custom one, time will tell.