A couple of things,
First I’ve not reset the throttle pot so theortically it should affect fueling but screwing in the throttle to open the butterflies to get it idleing on them, right?
And I did have any bungs for the bottom of the TB’s so I joined the two peices together so they’re a loop underneath the TB’s… This shouldn’t make any difference right?
That shoud be ok, but the main problem is that the Titans don’t have an accurate way of controlliing idle air ir, so you could be in the situation that two of the cyls are running very lean (witness Mike Lane having two red-hot pipes once)
jenveys are ok, because their injector configuration is better and have a good idle adjustment.
But with the Titans… I followed Dave Walker’s advice and left the IACV intact.
Cheers for that, I’ll keep an eye on the manifold then…
But that’s bizarre really, just screwing the adjustment is like opening the throttle…
But I’ll see how it goes
I tried removing the IACV on mine and it wouldn’t idle. Couldn’t be arsed to mess with the mapping at the time so put it back on.
Mine didn’t idle that brilliantly on the standard TB’s even with the IACV connected up!! Much o better now with the Jenveys and the Emerald. Plus think of all that weight you can save without all of the IACV stuff!!!
More than the weight (about 200gr) is simplicity, I wanted to have a very simple layout, but instead had to keep the IACV.
But the thing is that there is only one screw to adjust both bank pairs of throttles, and that one screw has some play. There is no way to adjust between pair, something that Jenveys do very easily.
Still, there are some advantages keeping the IACV, idling in winter is different that idling in summer, and the IACV is going to take care of running right regardless of temperature or air density, because it sees engine RPM as a target.
You’ll have to adjust something on the Jenveys.
And you’d have to play a lot with the Titans without the IACV…
Hmm… OK, sounds like trouble
I’m sure I’d read to just ditch the IACV and be done with it…
There is a balance between the two pairs of TB’s on the titans… I’m sure Dave Andrews said to do it when I got my verniers fitted…
And I thought the Emerald could up the ignition advance to control the idle, I know it’ll not be a higher mix but it does the same job of keeping a cold engine running…
Or maybe I dreamed it…
Yeah the Emerald allows you to put in a “Target Idle” The ECU will then advance or retard the ignition in an aim to “hit” the pre set target idle speed
You could try it by all means, but don’t think it’s going to be easy.
You may be fiddling there a long time.
Have you seen the adjustment screw in the middle? more like an afterthought…
Well I got it running OK last night and once warm felt fine… Kept adjusting a tiny bit but otherwise felt OK…
I’ll try it again from cold and see what happens…
How did cars used to idle?
P.S. in http://www.bookatrack.com/-pg?2326&19044, that the gearbox breather pipe, so as it get’s hotter any air inside can breath out… Or in my case, any excess g’box oil can be spat out
Hmmm… Well cylinder 2 and 3 are running a bit lean, the manifold pipes are a little cherry
To me this makes no sense as it’s the inner bodies on each pair???
I think I’ll give Dave Andrews a call and see what he says, and Emerald and see if there’s any tricks to getting it idleing on the TB’s…
I’m thinking of turning off the Closed-Loop and just running a little rich at idle to be safe but it did start OK, just a wee bit of throttle to get it fired up then it was OK…
I’ll keep you posted on what the experts say
How did cars used to idle?
Do you remember those little ‘choke’ levers you had to fiddle with when the engine was cold. Ahhh, the good old days
Well my 2nd car was a 1.0l D reg Micra, with carbs and had an auto choke
mutters fecking cars mutter
Well, I’ve turned off the lamda control so it can run a little rich at idle and so I’m not getting any cherry pipes
And now it’s picking up a little when cold, not as much as I’d like but enough to be OK and it doesn’t take long to warm up so once I get my exhaust and sCRP I’ll be off to Emerald to get it mapped 100%!
Dave Andrews removed my IACV when fitting my emerald, had no problems since.
Its about �230 to get it mapped now, I wouldn’t bother, unless you plan on making other changes, as the standard 190 map is very good
Anthony, don’t suppose you could mail me the map you’re using? It may just iron out a few little wrinkles I’m having…
It’s much better today after a bit of playing around but maybe DVA’s map would save me the wee headaches
Or I can pop down and get you that beer I’ve been meaning to get ya
Sorry for the late reply.
I will mail you the map, once I have fired up my ancient lappy and downloaded it from the ECU.
Always available for beer buying Lotus owners!!
Cheers man
It’s weird, when ever I sod around with the idle, either with or without the IACV I always get a dip in the revs, like it’s about to stall before it picks up again, like the fuel cut off is still on or the idle control isn’t picking up qiuck enough…
Then I put a proper map on and it all works… But I shall try and get there with the black art of engine tuning!
Map sent.
Hope it helps.
Perfect! Woohoo!
Idles fine and picks up when cold, no throttle required etc
But the really bizarre thing is when I turn the fuel cut-off on overrun on it stalls, of if I use throttle to keep it running it’s like it’s cutting off fuel all the time