OK , I’ve found time!
Update on the planned gearbox.
The Jubo gear swap doesn’t fill me with confidence. I feel it will move the problem elsewhere (rightly or wrongly, but I pays my money…)
The Audi ratios aren’t quite right , much as I’d love to throw money at John and give him a project.
Those of you that have seen the Jubo sequential video are probably still leaking man juice, as you might also over the Quaife sequential and even more so over Geary’s 7 speed sequential. But these are all 10k solutions and I drive to the track and I expect these to be LOUD.
Those previously involved in the Honda swap have lost patience and it’s just about there. The ratios I believe will suit and it will take as much as I’m prepared to put out from the standard bottom end (OK , not 100% failure free)
Have a read of this from Geary:
Hi Graeme
If it�s the Honda 6 speed box onto the Toyota engine, that�s 95% there but I won�t get time to finish it til after Xmas now.
Pricing is �around� �2350 + vat for the fitment parts inc flywheel, clutch , shafts, mounts etc ( you supply the K20 gearbox) and it will need to be pro fitted at about �450 + vat i.e. no DIY kits will be supplied before the 1st 10 are installed.
If you mean the sequential it�s now fully finished.
It�s been tested in a 400bhp Honda powered Exige with slicks and done about 4k race miles now ( x 2 as we have 2 gearboxes on test).
We have a total of 15 in production at the moment with 5 sets of spares.
4 are sold and we have another 16 �interested� parties, 10 of which are in Australia.
I am going to Sydney on Sunday to meet with the interested parties and to compete at Phillip Island with the two �mule cars�.
As yet I have not released these to the public as they are selling fine by contacts only.
To give you a bit of info mainly on pricing , its 10k (+ vat) for the 7 speed box, extras include, lightweight flywheel + clutch( �350), Wavtrac LSD ( �250),we can supply the engine and gearbox mounts if required ( �200), it�s got a built in pump ( ala Subaru) so you can run a laminova cooler ( approx �400).
S515 Driveshafts including new tripods and CV�s( �345 each) ,it does not require an intermediate shaft as the shafts run 1 degree angle , Geartronics paddle shift, choice of ratios and Diff.
There are loads of other features that will be released in due course.
Let me know if you need further info but would appreciate you keeping the above to yourself til they are released.
Kind regards
Geary
So, the wait is nearly over.
Anyone got a K20 box?
Ive looked into all the options. Even gave my car to eliseparts for a couple pf months to try an get the Honda conversion done which they failed at - gearys very words were ‘they’ve given up with it’. Car had to be trailered back in bits to be sorted.
I wouldn’t read into too much on the forums, seems to be more fiction than fact! The jubu gearset is all that’s needed.
my car has been running the Jubu gearset with an oil cooler (just as important) for 2 years and mostly trackdays (plus driving there and back) with no issues, you can go down other routes if you like, but I have still not heard (with any proof) of any Jubu gearset failures.
[quote=ade]my car has been running the Jubu gearset with an oil cooler (just as important) for 2 years and mostly trackdays (plus driving there and back) with no issues, you can go down other routes if you like, but I have still not heard (with any proof) of any Jubu gearset failures.
[/quote]
That’s good feedback.
Do you run the JSR cooler or a laminova type thing that I think Essex were doing?
I guess I worry about the syncros as my heel and toe is sh+te.
I’m still at the stage of indecision given that the Honda is still quite an expense.
Mine was the first one that JSR did with the gearbox cooler (it was all my fault\idea (delete as required)) personally I prefered the idea of a laminova as I did not want to risk over cooling the oil, also I saw it as being better as there seemed to be nowhere sensible to put a rad, finally they made the pump switchable so I can have it off on the road.
Not sure what changes they made when they did Sean’s car, but I think it was almost the same.
The only differences between Ade’s car and the kits we supply are a slightly smaller cooler and the wiring.
You can elect to go for larger one if you are a power/track monster!!
The wiring is a complete assembley, simply needs connecting to both sides of the battery, pump and into the reverse light wiring for an ignition live. They are supplied to run constantly with the ignition, to turn off, you can either pull the fuse out or run a wire in the cabin to a switch.
The gearbox has temperatures way in excess of the operating range of the oil when used on track even with 260hp let alone 300hp
To me it was belt and braces approach to fixing the gearbox issue. On the road I suspect it is not so much of a problem.
from what I’ve read it’s the flexing at temperature putting the cogs slightly out of line. Even the gearbox casing moves as it’s so thin in places.
Henry, didn’t you say the final drive didn’t quite suit the pick up out of corners, or were you just incredibly slow that day?!
Dude I change gears, I just don’t need to change them that often since I have the power/torque to use the proper ratios for the power…
The only reason you change gears is to gain a mechanical torque advantage due to a lack of power… Everyone here is finially looking for power and once you get it you need a gearbox designed to take advantage of it…
With power and close ratios all you get is wheel spin and waisted time shifting, each .75 sec. wasted shifting is .75 sec. of 0 torque being applied to the drive wheels. Thats .75 seconds per added shift more added to lap times…
Do you really want to go slower with more power…
Just wait until you come for a ride in the rocket pig and you’ll see for yourself. Give Chris Randall a call and ask him what he thought of the car’s gearing two years ago with 150whp less…
