Gearbox woes...

OK, just been “doing a Uldis” and pulling my car apart… If only in a mini fashion

But changing the oil for some Castrol RS 10w60 I managed to track down and so have left it to drain over night… Why not eh

But it really looks like my gearbox is hemoraging oil

So I’ve got some MTF94 to put in but can’t find a syringe to put it in with? Halfrauds didn’t have anything nor did B&Q? Any where else I should try or am I barking up the wrong tree?

Also I’ve degreased the whole engine so can hopefully spot any leaks etc. Esp on the gearbox and where it’s all coming from. But what are the common places?

TIA of course!

OK, further:


Is this little nobbin in the middle the bit that leaks oil, it used to be the mech speedo cable bit dodadwhatsitsname?

Or is it somewhere else? Also been looking at the service notes (while my bath over flowed ) and think I can see where the drain plug is, and above that the refil plug.


You dont need a syringe - just a longish pipe and a funnel - then fill it from the top - basic keep filling until it starts to come out of the filler hole, so long as its on the flat thats the right level.

The pipe needs to be 10mm or so so it drains well, but still fits in the filler hole …

Leaks …

  • Speedo drive “bodge” - Uldis had the same I think
  • There is a breather as well and that can leak - I think thats what your pointing at - the black thing ??


I’d just repeat all that Andy says… your pic is the breather and it can leak. The Rover speedo drive bit is very very difficult to see however, if you goto Uldis foto diary on Bookatrack he shows a pic of it (white plastic sorta triangular shape on top of gearbox housing above the gearstick linkage. you can see it if you take your airbox off and peer down below where the IACV is located. Or you can feel it from below by putting your fingers up there

good luck… you should check your CV gaitors at the same time…

Right, well I’ve got the airbox on with DZus fasterners now So that can “pop” on and off no worries!

So I’m looking at


Do I just bung this up with silicone or will that meltat temp? Or find a suitable sized “bung”?

Thanks again guys!

It looks like the gaitors are all OK but will double check them… Also now it’s not covered in oil I may be able to see where it’s leaking from! Woohoo!

That’s the one, the other black pointy thing is the breather. Oil is not supposed to leak from there.

So just remove the turning bits inside the speedo pick up (if you still have them like I did) and bung some silicon grease (the hardening one) on there and you’re ok.
Remember to fill like Andu said the gearbox through the filler hole until oil comes out.
It’s to the left of the speedo pick up, a bit lower on the left side.

Cool, just of to the garage now so wish me luck LOL!

It’s defo low on g’box oil as it’s a PITA getting it into gear when it’s cold

Again thanks all, engine oil changed, geare oil changed, fuel level fixed, engine cleaned, airbox on with DZus fasteners, much speedo unit bunged up (I ended up screwing a bolt into it surronded by silicone) and lots of other little bits

Couldn’t get the level nut off the g’box however but with a bit of a cunning plan I drained the g’box then put in just over 2 litres of MTF94 through the much speedo hole

So hopefully it won’t fall apart at Goodwood tom

You sure it’s not overfilled?
AFAIK it only takes 2.5L total, you drained well the existing one?

Can’t be 100% if I have overfilled… What would be the damage if I had? Or is it just more resistance?

I did drain it very well, right until it stopped dripping, about 2 hours of it open… The book says 2.5l from new / totally dry or 2.1l from a drain…

I hope not and may try and get Sinclaire to check tomorrow at Goodwood


gearbox seals and oil peeing out of the breather would be most likely concerns from overfill i reckon…

why couldn’t you remove the fill plug ??

It’s in a very poxy place and just couldn’t get the leverage with a long extension bar… My MANLY arms just wern’t up to the job LOL!

Also as it just on ramps couldn’t get a breaker bar in there either so will have to get it on some full ramps and check…

However no signs of leakage today at beford so

What would be the damage if I had?

I thought AndyD said something about the air getting lots of air in it from and generally being bad. Andy?

Have a look for that thread of the poor chap that had his oil of his 135R(?) changed on his 1000 mile service, only for the dealer to not remove the sump plug and basically doubled the quantity of oil in there! There was info in there…oh hang, I’ll find it…here. Bacially:

OH yes and overfilling is worse than not quite enough - I mean you increase the chance that the crank mashes the oil up and airates it so you get air in the bearings reducing their life, you put a lot of extra pressure on seals reducing their life…it will be later in the engines life that the problems show up




&leans over and whispers* That’s about engine oil, not gearbox oil

But yeah, knew that about engine oil and always have it a touch above full.

But on the g’box??? I’d imgaine a load would get spat out of the breather…

But if I have overfilled it wouldn’t be by that much! It’s by fractions of a litre and as it ran faultlessly at Goodwood can only assume everything is OK

But I’ll get up on full ramps and get some air tools as I think the sump nut was done up by Goliaths big brother


Well over filled or not it wouldn’t matter… My g’ox leak is still there

However it looks like I can see where it’s coming from now that I’ve cleaned it all up.

Looks like the inboard (closet to engine) driveshaft seal… Now how the f**k would I change this??? Is it a gearbox out job? Or is there anywhere else around this area that’s prone to leakage?

If it is the driveshaft seal u can do it quite easily without removing the g/b.
Done few times.


Cool, easy job or tricky? Any guide on how? I’ve got the service manual, any bits in there how to do it?

OK, looking through the service notes I htink I can do this lol

God what am I thinking! I must be ill!

Anyway… I don’t need to remove the driveshaft from the hub, but take to top of the hub off, lean it over and basically pull on the main body of the shaft (i.e. after the gaitor, the big chunky bit, the manual describes as a “tulip”) and this should just come out of the gearbox right?

The pull the seal out and replace? Any more bits needed? The circlip need to be renewed as well? And what grease is suitable? I have some LM grease, any good?

Sorry for so many questions but first time I’ve really “attacked” a gearbox

yes u can do it as u described, but maybe it will be necessary to completely remove the driveshaft to access the seal easier.
The new seal come with the grease on it, but do not forget to get the right one, LH and RH r different.
On early elises there was a different seal, so check u get the right one, check it on the exige parts list.