Hi guys
lost all of my coolant at Castle Combe today. Big splash all over the windscreen.
So I guess it is the rad. but I’ll soon know once the clam is off.
Any tips re front clam removal, do’s and don’ts (Exige S 2008)
Also whats this I hear about pressurising the system when refilling?
Just done this exact job …proalloy triple pass fitted now.
Job took me and JDS (the professor) about 4 hours .
When refilling we left the car on tick over the whole time …
Really do need some help with what to undo…
Fixing behind door hinge seems a bit unaccessible or do I remove the hinge cover inside the wheel arch and get at it from there?
I have wheel arch liners off
Front under tray off
Splitter off although seems that could have stayed on
Do the head light have to come out?
etc…etc…etc
Thanks in anticipation
scoob
Done this last December.
This helped. Lotus Elise Maintenance, How to Remove the Front Clam
Watch for the spacers on the lower wings and bolts nearest the screen. I also taped up the edges of the doors just in case.
Splitter does need to come off by the way. Ring me if you need to mate.
Thanks Mark but…
Done it!!!
Clam off…I did not know the hinge covers were just stuck on with a dab of Sikaflex
Rad out
Bloody great split in nearside plastic end tank!!!
Any one know where I can get replacement black foam that is used to fill in all the gaps around the rad?
or
Is it not really needed??
Also what rad should I replace with?
It’s a good job you bought that trailer.
Post a pic of your knack rad - I intend checking mine now!
Deroure but I recall not needing all of it recently, think I just used the top. Also I wouldn’t bother putting the fixings back above the door hinge, there are just a pita, it won’t go anywhere without them.
Give Stephen at trackclub a call if you don’t mind a nearly new proalloy rad … I think he may still have a couple on the shelf ?
Thanks guys
I’ll post a pic later today
Thanks jfk I’ll give Stephen a ring re rad
and yes Mark…good job I bought that trailer!!
Here you go
hose pipe fitted to rad
if you have one of these REPLACE IT before you need to…because you will need to
Hi Mark
not sure you can really check for this problem…only real answer is to replace at your convenience and not the cars!!
Hi …I’ve been trying to phone Stephen at Trackclub but can’t seem to get an answer.
jfk thinks he may have a used proalloy triple pass rad.
Anyone got a phone number or email address??
07590 688211
Thanks mate…nothing like the number I’ve been trying
Here you go
hose pipe fitted to rad
if you have one of these REPLACE IT before you need to…because you will need to
Yup, a job for this winter. ( yes Dave, I will have to cross your palm once again)
Can anyone give me a clue how to remove the fans??
My air con rad is still in situ and the brackets that hold the fans seem to be fixed to the air con rad, can’t see any fixings so I guess they are glued on??
Fans have two simple bolts front and back…buggered if I can see how to remove them with out disconnecting and removing the air con rad
It’s not that I want to remove the fans, just thought I should as they have both had a good soaking, so wanted to check them over and clean them up.
Can anyone give me a clue how to remove the fans??
The radiator must be removed for access to the cooling fans.
To Remove Radiator
- Remove the front clam shell
- Drain the coolant and disconnect the feed and return hoses from the radiator.
- If the car is equipped with air conditioning, de-pressurise the system and recover the refrigerant via the
service ports near the evaporator. - Remove the two radiator outlet air deflector panels, release all tie wraps and fixings securing wiring
harnesses and pipes to the radiator mounting panel, and disconnect the radiator fan harness plugs. - If the car is fitted with front mounted oil coolers, disconnect the feed and return hoses from both coolers
and plug all ports to limit oil spillage. Remove the mounting brackets from the coolers and crash structure. - Release the single fixing at the bottom of each side extension securing the mounting panel to the bottom
flange of the crash structure. - Release the three fixings securing the back edge of the mounting panel to the vertical flange on the crash
structure, and the three fixings along the front edge of the panel. - Withdraw the radiator mounting panel with radiator/(condenser)/cooling fans assembly.
- Each cooling fan is secured two studs and nuts to either the radiator flange bracket, or, on a.c. cars to the
condenser. The condenser is secured to the radiator lower flange by two studs at the front edge, and by
two pairs of screws at the rear edge. The radiator is fixed to the mounting panel by brackets at the front
and rear. Note the foam packing used between the radiator and mounting panel to ensure that all ducted
air flows through the radiator matrix. - Refit the radiator in reverse order to removal, ensuring that the foam packing is re-installed. Refill with
coolant and bleed. Re-charge refrigerant system.
Unless you need to remove the fans, try not to disturb them or the AC condenser. Almost all the time the condenser fixings will be stuck to the hoses, so you will have a bit of a mare.
To see if the fans runs just give them feed and earth to see if they spin. Try not to put your face over the rad as they will blow lots of junk and water at you!
Unless you need to remove the fans, try not to disturb them or the AC condenser. Almost all the time the condenser fixings will be stuck to the hoses, so you will have a bit of a mare.
To see if the fans runs just give them feed and earth to see if they spin. Try not to put your face over the rad as they will blow lots of junk and water at you!
Thanks John
I’ll give this a go
Now I’m no longer a “Clam Virgin” If fans do pack up at some stage then hey ho off it comes again
Also thanks da40flyer for your explanation and digram