They guy that’s selling them told me he had them on his cateraham , I know these will bolt straight onto my K-series engine and I will need to cut the fire wall and I will use my standard injectors and fuel rail. There are just a few points am not sure off.
Each body has its own vacume pipe that all link together then the pipe leads off to … where to ?
I have been told lots of different things about the standard Elise throttle cable. Some people say it will be fine, some say it needs modifying so say I need an Exige?
The black cylinder at the rear of the engine near the near side engine vent, think its called the charcoal cylinder? Does this need removing when fitting the throttle bodies? If so do any pipes need blocking up etc?
Think that’s all I can think of at the moment, plan on fitting them on Friday so hope all goes well.
Um… I’ll give it a go but someone may be along with some better info…
I can only assume to the IACV. Do the pipes into the TB’s go after the throttle butterfly? (i.e. next to the head?) If so then almost certainly to the IACV.
shrug I have no idea…
I’m pretty sure stock Exiges have the carcole canister… But most people bin it, do a search on this site for details but hence to say you can ditch it I reckon
When I said firewall in my first post I did mean the part between the boot and engine, this is the part that will need cutting for the airbox / airfilter like I have won in the auction.
I just had a quick search for removing the carcole canister and came up with some good info I also read you can remove the IACV but Is this not the case running standard ecu?
Did a search for the service manual but no luck with that? Does anyone have a direct link for me?
The Exige does indeed have a charcoal canister, unless we remove it
I know nothing about an Elise, so can’t tell you about the throttle cable, but have a look at my series of pictures in bookatrack, it may give you a hint:
Now, the Exige TB’s (Titan’s to be more precise0 have more than one set of vaccum ports, tweo per TB to be precise and 1 extra per pair of TB’s.
The paired ones exit from below and are about 1 cm diameter. These (two) go to the IACV, always from below, into a T and a silicon hose that ends in the IACV.
Now, on top you will have two vaccum ports per TB, one bank of them (let’s say the left one) goes to a common pipe that has in one ond the fuel pressure regulator and on the other a big black ball, which is vaccuum storage only (to compensate for the fact that we don’t have a manifold per se). This ball and the connection to the regulator can be eliminated.
The other set goes to a metal bar to which a hose from the cam cover connects.
This can be eliminated too if you fit a remote oil catcher.
Another thing you could do is eliminate the IACV, but in my case I chose to leave mine.
You may have to do some fiddling with it, as I think the Elise IACV and the Exige ones are different shape.
And there you go.
Hope you can get some more info from my pics.
The vaccuum pipes from the standard throttle bodies connect to an accumulator that runs the heater controls on an Exige with Air Con. Plus some go to the Fuel pressure reg, plus the ISCV.
Obviously you need the ones for the Idle speed control valve, but simply block all the rest off.
There is a vaccuum pipe that goes to the charcoal canister as well. You can deffo bin the whole charcoal canister arrangement. All this does is filter the vent pipe from the fuel tank and is for emmissions purposes.
Your have all been a great help, I cant thank you enough!
Day of fitting will be Friday, cant wait to hear what it sounds like “IF” it starts lol
RemarkLima thank you for your PM
SeanB I recognise your name/car from passionford used to have an escort cossi myself but posted on the rsocbb before it all went wrong a few years ago never really posted on PF just keep an eye on it to see what records have been broken. Good luck with your exige think you have gone for the best colour!
As my ebay auction link doesn’t seem to work here is a direct link to the picture hope it works! As you can see it comes with the air filter and not an air box.
Also what are the advantages / disadvantages of removing the IACV?? I am running the standard ecu injectors etc at the moment, my next modification will be an exhaust manifold to finish of my Decat pipe and stainless exhaust system and then I plan on going for an emerald ecu upgrade. Is there anything else I can bin while doing this on Friday?
If you ditch the IACV it will not run with the standard ECU, you need an Emerald or similar that can sort the idle with ignition advance… I’m not too sure if an older elise has a dizzy cap in which case the ignition isn’t controlled by the ECU so could be a lot more hassle than it’s worth (even more then I went through ).
That’ll be fine but ultimately you’d want a back plate and airbox with trunking, as that’ll pick up all the nice hot engine bay air which will be no good for performance at all! If you can get trunking onto the actual side pod then you’d be well away! Proper cold air feed!!!
Just looked at the Elise service manual and I think your right they are off a Elise 190 as they have the IACV sticking out the top. I am not sure what other differences there are as the service manual only has 1 very small picture of the Elise 190 throttle bodies and very little information.
Hello, Well its all fitted and goes really well, yes I am still on the standard ecu, I was going to get an emerald but not sure if to bother now as it seems fine. Starts from cold, idles as smooth as ever and is defo allot faster than before!! Why do you say I need a standard ecu?
The only thing I have noticed is that it runs a little rich when cold, u can smell it and it pops and bangs on the over run like mad sounds great!! But once warmed up it doesnt pop and bang at all the rich sell goes.
Is there anyway of getting it to pop on the over run all the time? Can you adjust the emerald ecu to not shut fuel of on the over run??
Thanks for your help guys will post pictures if your intrested.
Whats the not so simple answer?
also why does mine only do it when cold when i have heard standard cars do it all the tie with just a back box fitted???
Whats the not so simple answer?
also why does mine only do it when cold when i have heard standard cars do it all the tie with just a back box fitted???
Buy the Emerald ECU, & using a laptop link to it you can change the mapping, including overun fueling.
2.Because your car does not have a “choke” in the old fashioned sense for cold starting, the ECU sends a rich fuel mixture to the engine, which it then leans off when the correct temp is reached. Are you de-catted, cos this aids the “popping”?
Basically, without changing the map (ie ECU, & possibly adjusting the cam timing)) your engine will not now be running correctly/at its optimum (this may/may not be detrimental to its longetivity - who can say without access to ECU map?)
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