I am off to Spa in a bit. Report in due course.
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Safe trip Andy 
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In another episode of tonight I did a thing!
I have been chasing the electrical gremlin that is " my dash cluster wont turn off"
You know , the one I really decided Id like to fix 6 days before Spa even though it had been a problem for 5 years? Yeah , that one.
So , I have removed the ECU to check for pin damage.
Zero
I removed the adapter loom and spotted a bent pin that I have straightened. It was for the water coolant circuit.
I have re assembled everything in there and checked the earths , again.
After some inspiration from John @ SeriouslyLotus I jerry rigged an earth from the battery to the back of the loom in the dash. ( No pics - imagine a 20AWG wire about 3.5m in length. One end taped to the earth on the battery and the other end with a shakey hand Andy trying not to hit pin A1
I earthed out the earth point and sod all changed.
HOWEVER , if I short the igniton live on pin A3, clunk. I hear the relay in the engine back do its thing and the cluster turns off.
So , it seems the ignition switched feed isnt working correctly. I am not quite sure how to progress on that bit.
Trace the ignition feed (green) as far as you can, could it be a dodgy connection or failed cable?
Really odd that the dash will not turn off, you could be opening a big can of whoopass beans.
John, I have spent hours on this now. Absolutely hours. I am now at the point where I am thinking “whats the point?”
I have R4 fuse out and for the life of me I cannot work out what else is not working due to that.
The green wire comes out the back of the dash , and into the void behind it. I cant trace it easily , sadly.
Can confirm that the dash goes into lots of small bits 
Absolutely parking this right here now.
Toys are out of the pram and I am sulking.
Car works despite my best efforts of trying!
In conclusion I have found the following:
- Snapped/bent pin on the adapter loom for the water coolant circuit. Rectified and noted water still circulating.
- The clips on the ECU to Lotus loom adapter are very , very sensitive. Look at it the wrong way and the car will turn over but not start. You get a sinking feeling when this happens. This appears to be fixed.
- The dash needles are a right pain to remove, The either take the spindle out of the motor or fly across the garage snapping the needle. UHU glue to the rescue and then fuse pulling to reset the needles
- The dash is actually quite simple but hard to work on in terms of solder due to the size. Ideally needs magnifying glass but can substitute an iphone with camera in macro mode. You cannot test the dash properly without tape to hold the main board to the daughter board that controls the oddo/water/fuel LCD.
- It appears to be something to do with the switched live on the car to dash that is causing my issue. If I earth it the dash goes off. If I remove the power and reconnect the dash will return to its last state - IE cluster on.
- I can hear a relay clunking in the rear hatch when I either ground the switched live , or press the window down. What is this relay?
I blatently cannot leave this alone.
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1 Coolant still circulating when engine running or after hot shut down? Engine running is normal engine driven water pump, after hot shut down is the ECU output for the recirc pump?
2 Try the S2 DBW connectors, they’re even worse.
3 and 4 Eeek.
6 The only relay in the engine bay is the MFR, which we have tried with no joy. So suspect that is a result of your issue, rather than a cause.
We had a look to see if we had a dash that would suit. But all the ones we have have are black dash.
Just noticed that your oil temp/pressure gauge is alive when the dash is. Unplug it from wherever it’s getting it’s live feed, just to rule it out.
Running - I havent tested post hot ( > 88degC I think? ) shutdown. I dare not open the expansion vessle to validate!
Really? Forget that for a game of soliders!
Dont not panic. All fixed now.
Ideally Ill get another speedo needle from somewhere and replace it when the glue fails.
True, I noted I have one for the chargecooler pump. Just whipped that off and no change.
I appreciate that - thanks Mr!
You mean the dodgy oil temp pressure gauge that often is backlit then not?
The one thats in with scotchblocks behind the igniton? That one?
Ill add it to my list post meet Saturday.
Yup, that one! There’s a photo you have posted that shows the dash on, the hazard light switch on, and the dodgy oil gauge on at the same time.
I bet you look at it tomorrow!! 
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So is that it fixed?
If so are you having a ritual burning?
I did just manage to turn on the radio though by wiggling a wire …
Scrap that must have caught it with my finger
I think I am going to assume my car is a 2-11 with a roof.
Fuse r4 is fuse e4 in a 2-11 and not present.
Identity crisis for my early exige.
Trace all the power wiring back for the dodgy oil gauge and get rid. Scotchlocks are the work of the devil!
Ill add it to my list.
Not doing it tomorrow