LED strips take some beating
Could I suggest wax then sonax? You want the water repellent stuff on top of the shiny stuff.
My car is a good 10ft car.
You canāt have my wheels 
Weirdos indeed on the garage!
Agreed. Was Ā£25 or so delivered and smashing. Only issue I had was I needed to remove a rose joint light fitting and rewire but not end of world.
Go for the 6000k LED battens as these give a much āwhiterā light thatās excellent for working in.
On that note, battens are much easier to install than converting fluorescent tube fittings - just 2 wires rather than having to remove starters, run new wires inside. etc.
If it was the Sonax quick detailer (BSD?) Iād agree and stick it on top but I was using the proper basecoat stuff (NPT? Too many acronyms with that brand) which claims to need a completely naked surface to adhere to (use their panel wipe product before it to make sure, etc).
As it happens my poorboys had turned to pink crust anyway, so just gone with NPT - it looks bloody ace as is though so no need to add anything else. The Poorboys was just intended to be a sacrificial layer for when I bed in my next set of pads.
Iāll assume youāre still āconsideringā a wheel swap then, no pressure on a decision mate.
Yes , the sonax quick retailer. Itās brilliant for the cash!
Still under consideration the wheel swap , but I fear itās going to be a bit on your life verdict 
Agreed, properly good QD. It seems to respond well to being mixed/diluted with other stuff too to make it less āgrabbyā. Thereās a big thread on detailing world with various mixing experiments. Last time I checked a 50:50 mix with demonshine performed really well, which is ace as thatās even cheaper 
Regarding led strips. These keep popping up on my social feeds.
They look incredible! I just went for poverty spec screwfix one!
This has given me a new project 
Iām looking at these?
The lighting in my garage has always been crap, but where is the best place to put the lights? Ceiling or high on the sides?
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I went top down as the light can then present all around rather than just out and down if high on the side
I have now changed the hub. I had ordered new hub bolts and got them earlier in the week.
I undid the old ones and left them a few mm proud and went round hammering them in turn. The hub eventually came out.
Cleaned it up and put the new one back in again.
Now I know how to do that one , I might just change the nearside just because.
Good work, glad the āwhack itā technique worked.
Did it hurt you as much as it hurt me to bolt such shiney bits onto such rusty crud? Had to resist the temptation sooooo many times this winter to rip it all off and get it painted up nice. 
Yes, the pain was real when placing the magpie shiny metal back on.
It really looks worse in the picture than it is .
I cant decide if I should use bed liner paint for some por / dinitrol stuff ā¦
If we get a significant extension to lockdown, or it becomes evident that driving our cars for fun in the near future is off the cars Iām seriously considering pulling all my suspension off.
When I did it on my Elise I effectively outsourced it, took it all off at home and shipped it off to Chris (when he worked for JSS) and he pressed new BJs,and bushes in after getting the lot powdercoated, it looked fantastic.
Main thing holding me back is that my bushes and BJs are only 20k oldā¦ and seem absolutely fine, and I canāt figure out a way to do this āwellā without removing them. If I decide to sacrifice them for the sake of vanity, then Iād look into DIYāing the full job lot - vinegar bath, zinc primer, spray paint with a POR15 finish probably. Probably wouldnāt actually take that long eitherā¦
Wont you have to get the alignment done again matey?
Yup, annoyingly.
In theory I would leave the track rod ends alone (as theyāre brand new anyway), then itās just a case of noting the castor and camber shims and making sure they go back exactly as they came outā¦ that should leave the Geo bang on, but with slight tolerances in the bushes, wishbones and fixings I guess thereās always the chance of introducing some variance where you didnāt intend toā¦
Am I a fool for thinking about wet lay carbon my front splitter?
My front splitter is a little used, its been gently pushed into a kerb and has minimal damage other than spider cracks.
I was thinking about removing it over this lockdown period ( is it riveted on or bolted ? ) and then sanding and fibreglass fixing and finally painting it.
Then I saw a youtube video , quite by coincidence of wet lay carbon. I wont need a mold , its literally a fancy wrap. Prep the surface, key it , clean it , resin it , stick the weave , epoxy gel coat , finish , done ā¦
Or so the theory goes ā¦
Am I mad for considering it?
Mine is a bit āusedā from having low ride height, and has been repaired a couple of times and repaintedā¦ I was going to either carbon wrap it or even get a carbon splitter - but it seems gets a whack every now an again on bad roads , and is only noticeable to be less then perfect very close up, so I decided to leave it