Dilemma. What class to go into in Time Attack

Morning all,

Having a bit of a dilema, a bit boring, but would appreciate your thoughts. I’m entering Time Attack again this year as some of you may know and am in the process of rebuilding my car at the moment.

The organisers have literally just released new tyre regs which causes me to have this dilemma.

I can now either go into the Pro Class, on my choice of any full slick and wet tyre, with all of the most highly tuned cars in existance. Steve G was in this class and came 2nd. We aren’t told who is going into which class, so basically I could either get totally destroyed and be able to do nothing about it or I could possibly do ok and show a few of the big names up. I would imagine everyone in this class will have at least double my power. I have no way of knowing how competitive I will be.

Or, I can go into a special 2 wheel drive class on my choice of any tyre from the 1B list, i.e road legal track tyres. Again, I won’t know who is in this class exactly. However, I do know a few of the cars that will be in this class and back in 2010, I was quite a bit quicker than them. If I ended up being lots faster than them, I would get put up a class again like in 2010 anyway.

What do you guys reckon. I’m tempted to go into Pro on slicks and spend the next couple of months growing some massive bollocks.

As you have the balls to do it anyway then I think you should go for the pro class and have an accurate measure against the best.

I’d go into the Special two wheeled class, and see how you measure up!!

Going into the Pro class maybe a step to far, to soon , IMHO :slight_smile:

there might be some good competition in the 2wd class, go there to start with to get your eye in, then move up if required. If you start in pro you can’t move down :wink:

If I start in the 2wd class, if I were to get moved up, I’d have to buy another 3 sets of tyres really!!!

We have to have slicks and wets for Pro and List 1B and 1A tyres for the other class for wet and dry conditions.

The other thing is that there will be Pro Tuner cars, owned by proper teams etc and there will be Pro privately owned cars, whom I would be competing against. In 2010 I was moved up from the lowest class into the middle class and remember setting times that were quicker than some of the Pro cars. Plus, this year I’ll have more power, less weight, a full sequential paddleshift gearbox and lots more aero.

[quote=jamwill79]If I start in the 2wd class, if I were to get moved up, I’d have to buy another 3 sets of tyres really!!!

We have to have slicks and wets for Pro and List 1B and 1A tyres for the other class for wet and dry conditions.

The other thing is that there will be Pro Tuner cars, owned by proper teams etc and there will be Pro privately owned cars, whom I would be competing against. In 2010 I was moved up from the lowest class into the middle class and remember setting times that were quicker than some of the Pro cars. Plus, this year I’ll have more power, less weight, a full sequential paddleshift gearbox and lots more aero. [/quote]

Your decision , but as has been said , see how you go first , before big expense of slick and wets required in Pro Class .IMHO :slight_smile:

It’s timed laps so what difference does it make ? Since I have no class just put on the stickies and have fun.

after being down at roger clarks today looking at them build the gobstopper 2, i reckon you should have a crack at the pro class…the fact they brought someone over from australia to do the wiring on the new car says it all…

that way i can come and see you both…but the sensible option has the be the other class…i reckon you should be in a class thats competitive for you and your car…if that makes sense…

I think you know what you really want to do :wink: and you should go for it.

Sounds like you already know the ropes and so have less to gain from the other classes - so go shoot for the moon and measure yourself against the best with no compromises.

[quote=scatty]after being down at roger clarks today looking at them build the gobstopper 2, i reckon you should have a crack at the pro class…the fact they brought someone over from australia to do the wiring on the new car says it all…

that way i can come and see you both…but the sensible option has the be the other class…i reckon you should be in a class thats competitive for you and your car…if that makes sense… [/quote]

Oooh, do tell me more. How are they getting on with it then and did they tell you anything about it? I’ve heard a few things about it, but a couple of weeks ago Scuffers was with the machinest who is making some parts for my gearbox and also theirs and was told that their gearbox has been designed to handle 1600 hp!!!

Anyway, at the moment I’m thinking Pro Class is the way to go as it’ll be the biggest challenge with my lack of power and lack of skill. I’ve won the championship for my class before, so sod it if I don’t win again. I’ll think it over for another couple of days though.

i wasnt allowed to take any pics of it. its the new scoob hatch. its still basically the shell and a steering wheel at the minute. the wiring all looks complete i think, and ollie said it would prob be ready for testing march/april…i think…

is your first outing at cadwell may/june??? il make sure i pop along and say hi. my mate started working there just before xmas so il let you know if i get any tit bits…

the bloke doing the wiring actually took his shoes off when he went inside the shell of the car. i had to do a double take…

Go Pro Class matey. Like you have said, you have won the lower class before, and slicks, wings and a sequential is gonna make you loads quicker and thats without the extra oooommph you’re gonna have.

I think the satisfaction you will get by beating some of the mega money, mega power cars will be huge and make it all worth while.

The cost of the extra wheels and tyres shouldn’t worry you too much looking at the mods you have been doing over the winter.

You and your car are gonna be awesome matey!!!

Go Pro class, you’ll improve both your car and your driving far more than you would by having an easier time of it in the other class.

Agreed, go in the pro’s if you have won the lower class already.

Don’t be put off by the bigger budgets, just because they have more money doesnt mean they have the balls to match…

We used to turn up to karting in a knackered old van with second hand karts a few years old and park up next to the 100k race trucks holding 3-4 brand new chassis and all the kit to go with. We used to get laughed at on the way in and cursed at on the way out after we kicked their arses…

Go out and take as many scalps as you can, well all be routing for you! :slight_smile:

Gav, that sounds like a trackday at Silverstone where I have often got patronising smiles/nods first thing in the morning and been ignored at lunchtime. :slight_smile:

Indeed, I use to love my old twin turbo rs4 estate for that. Nobody would give it the slightest bit of attention first thing in the morning, by dinner time you’d have a large crowd around it wanting to know wtf has just flew past them…

The opportunity to run your choice of slicks and wets in the pro class should really give you confidence in pushing the car further. Full credit for doing so well already on 1b tyres, running full race wets in the rain/damp is night and day compares to 888 or A048.

Sssh! That’s why I was sneaking up behind Sean on the first morning laps at Donny, certainly nothing to do with my track ability. I think he was having more sideways fun though :slight_smile:

Well, I’ve still not reached a 100% fixed decision, however it’s looking more like Club Pro at the moment on 1B tyres, but I’ll see. If I had another 50-100 odd bhp, I’d go in Pro without question. I can still go up if I’m quick enough, but I’m going to be so rusty and my car so different, that I think I’ll be more comfortable starting slowly or slower!!

So another question…I have to have 1A list tyres in case it’s very wet. What are the best ones to go for? I need a 16" front of 195/205 and 17" rears of about 245/255. Anyone got any ideas please?

Can you list the options mate. I have no clue what is on the 1B list.

Sorry, I meant 1A list. 1B is for dry. Right, here is the very long list.

(L) Permitted Tyres
LIST 1A
Tyres for Production Saloon
Car Racing/Production
Sports Car Racing
4. It is prohibited to re-groove
tyres in this list.
AVON
� CR 322
� ZZ 3
� ZV 3
� ZV 5
BRIDGESTONE
� B 330 (including EVO)
� Turanza ER 30
� Turanza ER 300
� RE 010
� RE 030
� RE 070
� S-02/Potenza/Pole Position
� *Potenza RE720
� Potenza RE040
� Potenza RE050, RE050A
� Potenza RE070
� Potenza RE050 RFT
� Potenza RE040 RFT
� Potenza S001
� Potenza S001 RFT
� Turanza ER300 RFT (Incl.
Ecopia)
� B250
BF GOODRICH
� *Profiler
� *Profiler G
� Touring
� Touring G
� G Force Profiler
� Profiler 2
� g-Grip
COOPER
� Zeon 2XS
� Zeon XTC
� Zeon CS6
CONTINENTAL
� ContiSportContact
� ContiEcoContact EP
� ContiSport Contact 2
� Premium Contact
� ContiEco Contact 3
� ContiPremium Contact 2
� ContiSport Contact 3
� ContiSport Contact 5P
DUNLOP
� SP 30
� *SP 103e
� SP Sport 01
� *SP Sport 3000 & 3000A
� *SP Sport 200 & 220
� *SP Sport 300
� SP Sport 600
� *SP Sport 2000 & 2020 & 2040
� *SP Sport 8000 & 8080
� SP Sport Aquajet/CB73
� *SP Sport 3000
� SP Sport 9000
� *SP Sport 9090
� SP Sport Maxx
� SP Sport Maxx GT
� SP Sport Maxx TT
� SP Sport Fastresponse
(All above include Denlock, MFS,
M2, E and TD versions).
FALKEN
� FK-06, G
� FK-451
� FK-452
� FK-07E, J, U
� ZE-326
� SN-807
� SN-816
� SN-828
� ZE-502
� ZE 512
� ZIEX ZE912
� TZ 300U
� SZ 90U
FIRESTONE
� Firehawk 690 (Incl. Fuel Saver)
� Firehawk SZ 80
� Firehawk FH 700 (Incl. Fuel
Saver)
� Firehawk TZ 200
� Multihawk
� F 630
� F 560
� F 590 FS
� Firehawk SZ 90
� Firehawk SZ 90a
� TZ 300a
FEDERAL
� 595
FULDA
� Carat Assuro
� Carat Extremo
� Carat Atterio
� Carat Linero
� Carat Exelero
GOODYEAR
� *Eagle GSD
� *GT3
� *Eagle Ventura
� *Eagle NCT3
� *Eagle GA
� Eagle F1 GSD3
� *Eagle GSN
� *Eagle GSA
� *Eagle GSC
� *Eagle ZR
� Eagle F1 GS Fiorano
� *Eagle NCT5
� Hydragrip
� Excellence
� Eagle F1 Asymmetric
� Optigrip
HANKOOK
� *K 102
� *K 104
KLEBER
� Viaxer
� *Dynaxer DR
� *Dynaxer HP
� Dynaxer HP2
� Hydraxer
KUMHO
� *769 Power Max
� *Ecsta 711
� *Ecsta Supra 712
� *KH Ecsta
� *758 Power Star
� *Ecsta MX
� Ecsta KH11
� Ecsta KU19
� Solus KH15
� Ecsta KU31 SPT
MARANGONI
� Zeta Linea
� Mythos
(L) Permitted Tyres
MARSHAL
� 717 Power Racer II
� *719 Power Racer ll
� KR11
� KH35
MAXXIS
� Maz 1
� Mav 1
MICHELIN
� *Pilot SX MXX3
� Pilot Sport (Excludes Pilot
Sport Cup and all competition
tyres)
� *Pilot Primacy
� Pilot Sport PS2
� Pilot Exalto PE2
� Energy E3A & E3B
� 165 SR15 XZX
� Primacy HP
� Energy Saver
� Pilot Sport 3
� Pilot Super Sport
PIRELLI
� P6
� P7
� *P200
� P600
� P700Z
� *P1000
� *P2000
� P2500 Euro
� P3000 (Incl. Energy)
� P4000
� P6000 (Incl. Powergy)
� P7000
� P Zero Asimmetrico
� P Zero Direzionale
� P5000 Drago
� P Zero Nero
� P Zero Rosso & Direzionale
� P Zero
� Cinturato P1
� Cinturato P4
� Cinturato P6
� Cinturato P7
� CN36
� CA67
SEMPERIT
� Speed Life
SILVERSTONE
� FTZ Sport
� Kruzier 1 NS700
� Kruzier 1 NS500
� EVOL8 Compotrac
� Synergy M5
� Synergy M3
� Powerblitz Series 1800
� Powerblitz Series 2000
TOYO
� Proxes T1-S
� Proxes T1-R
� Proxes T1 Sport
� Proxes C15
� Cleanproxes E10
� F8
� 330
� 600 F5
� Roadpro R610
� 350
� Proxes CF1
� Proxes 4
� CTO1
� TEO Plus
� 310
UNIROYAL
� RSP 2
� Rain Expert
VREDESTEIN
� Sportrac 3
� *Ultrac
� *Ultrac Sessanta
YOKOHAMA
� A 008 (Excluding R)
� A 008P
� A 022
� *A 321
� A 509
� A 510
� A 520
� A 539
� AC 01 (C Drive)
� AVS Sport V102
� S 306
� S 760
� Advan Sport V103
� Advan Neova AD07
� AS 01 (S Drive)
� Advan Neova AD08
� AC 02
� AA 01 (A Drive)
� Parada Spec-2 [PAO2]