hahahahahaha at Toffee line. Mint!!!
Oh, do you like those too???
[quote=SeanB]hahahahahaha at Toffee line. Mint!!!
Oh, do you like those too???
[/quote]
PMSL 
Looking forward to seeing the dynos from the 7th. I spoke to Wayne at Sinclaires earlier this week to see what can be done we my 240PP. The main question for me was can I get away with A/A I/C if I’m aiming for 300 bhp(flywheel). He seemed to be saying you could , at your own risk and it was best to C/C.
If that is the definative answer then this MMG looks interesting.
Presumably the C/C rad bolts under the uprated front rad and the air con can still be functional?
Did they do a triple pass new main rad?
Keep the updates coming
I’m such a numpty when it comes to mechanicals, love driving - hate black muckunder my finger nails and swearing at haynes manuals! I think its a triple pass main rad…i do know that you keep a fully functional aircon tho - altho it needs regassing after having the C/C fitted.
I cant speak highly enough of how much better the car performs with the C/C fitted. Trust me, i would say if it was average (or shite). The car feels quick now all the time rather than just for the 1st 5mins of driving…it’s funny tho, if you’d have asked me before I had the kit fitted if my car suffered from terrible heatsoak I’d have probably said i couldnt feel it. Once chargecooled you really can feel the difference and at just over a grand for everything inc the uprated main rad it’s a no brainer…it keeps the engine safe and makes the car quicker all for exhaust system money.
I booked my car in at sinclairs today for the 10th as I’m really not sure my cars not running lean after bolting the manifold & decat on and don’t want to risk waiting till the 27th when it goes to MMG .
At least the pump and base map will be done and can go back to sinclairs when the new air/air and rads fitted .
Not sure why you needed the aircon regased when they did your CC, mine didn’t with the proalloy one, maybe the front rad design is very different or something else, who knows 
Why is so many peeps chasing 300bhp when the gearbox can’t take it 
I’ve driven a couple of 260/270 cars and they are plenty quick enough. The heatsoak was only noticable in mine on a warm day if stopped (traffic) for a while, even then it cleared afet a couple of minutes at cruising speed 
I did it as had the chance and I got most of it cheaper because my car was used for development, it has now cost me an expensive gearbox fix, but I made my choice to add power rather than take out creature conforts to get the same effect. But I suppose you can challange the S1 boys to a similar question, why add a SC or CC to your already fast Honda powered upgrade?
The gearbox point is a valid one and something which doesn’t impact the Honda boys. It’s not like they break every week on the yota’s but under track/race conditions its clearly a weak point with high power.
Power is adictive, people will always want more of it. I have got used to my 420bhp now and want more.
Sean you don’t count as you are clearly MAD
you do make a great point though as my car feels slow, it is only when you take someone out for the 1st time and they comment on the performance that you remember it is fast (not as fast as yours but you get the point, everything feels normal after a while)
Everybody knows this quest for HP is pointless because red cars are the fastest, thats why sean is so quick (ask the bib) and why Ades 300bhp car could not pass my 260-270bhp car.
So stop buying all this heavy water filled crap, get down to halfords and get a tin of paint, sorted
What he said!!!
haha…I always thought the quickest car is always a hire car!
as for chasing 300bhp i’ve always been the same, it’s an affliction of being addicted to petrol i think. Everycar I’ve owned I tried my hardest to improve whether it be more power, better suspension, etc.
Point in case, a couple of summers ago I bought a little 60’s fiat 500 for a laugh and managed to get that up to the heady heights of 35bhp (from a standard 21bhp)!!! you see it’s all about the journey…the tweaking, the shiney new parts, the end result is nearly always a come down…not because the mods havent worked but becuase the mods have been done. Expensive? yes always, Does this make me stupid? yes, defo.
I’m with him ^^^^^^^
and the quickest cars are red, no blue, no red, no blue (and so on) as they always catch you, don’t they Sean?
PS Sean get the gearboxes lined up ready for all the 300+hp guys
Hi everyone,
I have recently gone the proalloy CC route with rad , injectors , live map etc etc 300ish at the fly. People keep saying how fast this conversion will be but to be honest i didn’t think it was that much faster. I think if i did it again i would go with the forge ic and save myself 6 grand. The car has just gone back to check if everything is running as it should. May be its me thats not running as it should…
What HP did you see at the hubs?
The Forge doesn’t fit the single strut engine lid (i’m sure that’s not insurmountable). I had a long look at this, but others will testify, even with a slightly more efficent A/A I/c you will get heatsoak that you may not even recognise (and get used to). As Wayne at Sincs says, on a warm day an A/A cannot be reliably left to bring temps down after a few mins on track. It will work , but not as well. If you are pushing 300hp, you want reliable (IMHO) as things start to get pushed to the limit.
You can start adding extra ducting and a 3 way diffuser shroud, and a heat reflector, but this MMG C/C wouldnt be much more.
Food for thought
[quote=661]The Forge doesn’t fit the single strut engine lid (i’m sure that’s not insurmountable). I had a long look at this, but others will testify, even with a slightly more efficent A/A I/c you will get heatsoak that you may not even recognise (and get used to). As Wayne at Sincs says, on a warm day an A/A cannot be reliably left to bring temps down after a few mins on track. It will work , but not as well. If you are pushing 300hp, you want reliable (IMHO) as things start to get pushed to the limit.
You can start adding extra ducting and a 3 way diffuser shroud, and a heat reflector, but this MMG C/C wouldnt be much more.
Food for thought [/quote]
Very easy you just remove the strut and either have twin struts or no strut.
My forge works very well on track and brings down temps a hell of a lot (a lot more than stock) I will also add more air at some point to help even further, JFK had his tested on a RR and it made over 10bhp difference without a remap. They weigh just 5kgs and I paid �500 for mine.
Still If I had a good business selling Chargecoolers at �2.5K a pop I’d say A2A was crap too