I know this has been discussed over and over but after going through every thread re MOT i have a simple question for the experts. I have a 190 K series with sports cat fitted but failed on emmisions. However i see some of you pass with a 190 and cat so what is the most likely reason for my fail. My back box has started ‘booming’ like when baffles go but could this be the cat and not the rear box?
My ‘friendly’ MOT chap is happy to pass it but i would like to know if it is possible to pass a 190. My lotus garage suggested going back to a 177. Is this do-able?
Oh by the way sorry to go over old ground!!
i’m not sure a standard 190 ECU etc can pass an MOT ?? isn’t this why Lotus never produced them like this from the factory ?.. it was an emissions thing wasn’t it ?
Anyway, it might just be your CAT that need replaced? ANyone near you who can lend you one ?
I have a standard 190 ecu with a Larini cat and it passed 1st time well within limits.
There we go then, although the official Lotus 190 view is track use only, it is possible to pass with a 190. I suppose you could ‘rot’ a cat with all the moisture and high fuel level? and no I dont appear to have any Exige buddies near Tunbridge Wells in Kent. Maybe they dont like me!
a catalytic converter is a very sensitive piece of kit. this is exactlty the reason why one should always keep the cat in perfect condition to pass the confounded test. i find the best way is to keep it warm and dry in a box under the stairs.
There really shouldn’t be a problem for a 190 car provided the cat is fitted. The difference it makes to emmisions is enormous. See THIS THREAD
second post in a row recommending an Emerald (and verniers if required)
No problems since fitting mine - 190ECU is a sack of shite in my EXPERIENCE!
I couldn’t afford one but did it any way. I reckon I’ll get my money back in no time, stress, economy, time off work, distraction of worrying about it blah blah…
It’s not just the ECU, it’s also a timing issue. Some 190’s are perfect, and some are a mile out, so some pass and some don’t. Mine was a mile out, so I put an Emerald in it, and it’s a different car now. Bin the 190 and do it properly.
I live near Tunbridge Wellsin Kent, so who are the kiddies to fit an Emerald. I know of Maidstone sports centre place that do the Honda conversion etc and Sinclairs in London. Any recommendations?
Some 190’s are perfect…Bin the 190 and do it properly.
second post in a row recommending an Emerald (and verniers if required)
No problems since fitting mine - 190ECU is a sack of shite in my EXPERIENCE!
I couldn’t afford one but did it any way. I reckon I’ll get my money back in no time, stress, economy, time off work, distraction of worrying about it blah blah…
If you put 50 PSI in your AO48s, and they were rubbish on the road/track, would you then decide to bin them and go back to AO39’s?
Nothing wrong with the 190ECU (at least to the extent it is vilified) - just how people have had it installed/setup…
The ‘problem’ with the 190 ECU is that is uses MAP to determine engine loading, at idle and when off cam the MAP signal from the TBs is both weak and inconsistent. This leads to the engine being poorly managed with resulting problems with load speed running and progression.
The Emerald ECU in common with many other aftermarket ECUs uses an Alpha-n strategy which ignores MAP and uses throttle angle only to determine load, it is therefore not sensitive to the poor MAP signal from the engine and the net result is an engine with much better low speed running, progression, throttle response and drivability. Not to mention the extra power and torque. Couple this with correct cam timing and the engine is transformed.
Dave
Dave - I can’t say I am well qualified to debate this with you, however, reading the Lotus service notes it states that it receives a signal from the throttle position as well as MAP and if sensor readings are outside of the acceptable range then it will substitute a default value.
It uses the TPS for transients, I.E. changes in throttle position. If you think it doesn’t make heavy use of MAP, disconnect the sensor, see what happens.
Dave
Steve / Dave,
Perhaps you can help lead me to the answer on a problem I have had since last year, and both Lakeside and B&C have told me nothing is wrong?!!
Basically if I am driving the car at constant revs between 2,000 and 3,000 rev’s, my engine’s just not happy…the car pulls back every few seconds as there are millisecond losses of power (something is retarding).
Anyway, this never existed before I had my 190ECU refitted after I was sufferring the now infamous 5,500 rev-limit problem. I had B&C check for error codes and …well…nothing. They say the car is fine but I know my engine shouldn’t do this…
HELP?!!
Hmm… Actually what I could really do with is meeting up letting one of you drive it a mile down the road and then you will know I’m not in sane!!!
On light throttle openings when off the cam the calibration appears to be awry on most Exiges. The majority of owners that I have upgraded complained of juddering, kangarooing and general unpleasantness when driving at lower RPM in any gear. Without monitoring the ECUs activity it would be impossible to say exactly what it is doing, it’s possible that at constant RPM it is attemptiong to enter closed loop running and is not doing this perfectly. Suffice to say that problems of that nature are eradicated when an Emerald is fitted.
With the right software and tools I’ve no doubt that the situation could be improved with the current ECU, however the required parephernalia and expertise simply isn’t around.
Dave
The ‘problem’ with the 190 ECU is that is uses MAP to determine engine loading, at idle and when off cam the MAP signal from the TBs is both weak and inconsistent. This leads to the engine being poorly managed with resulting problems with load speed running and progression.
The Emerald ECU in common with many other aftermarket ECUs uses an Alpha-n strategy which ignores MAP and uses throttle angle only to determine load, it is therefore not sensitive to the poor MAP signal from the engine and the net result is an engine with much better low speed running, progression, throttle response and drivability. Not to mention the extra power and torque. Couple this with correct cam timing and the engine is transformed.
Dave
Steve - I wasn’t at all wanting to be contentious you may be right about the 190, indeed I was incorrect in my original claim as mine was a lowly 177 but to the layman Daves wise words above and my own experience with the 170ECU translate to ‘it’s crap’ and the new timing/Emerald is ‘ace’
[Steve - I wasn’t at all wanting to be contentious you may be right about the 190,
oh yes you were
seriously, perhaps an Emerald would make a good difference or maybe I have a well setup car - given its history it should be!
It just seems a very expensive option once you have factored in all the costs…I would love to have an ECU I could play with though and I have no shame…so if one came up cheap
Have you added up just how much yours cost you?
Hi Steve - been off for a few days.
About �1100.00 with me doing some of the numpty work - i.e. crimping and soldering pins on the existing loom.
I’m not loaded and it was a stretch but worth it big time!
About �1100.00 with me doing some of the numpty work - i.e. crimping and soldering pins on the existing loom.
I guess i just look at it as money down the drain if I end up with an alternative power plant…but worth the money if you intend to keep the engine long term.