Thats where your all wrong, I can sit in Maccy D’z with my super cool chargecooler keeping my WOT’s and AFR’s in check so that when I pull away I have MAX POWER to pull donuts in the car park.
Try doing that on track with a big mac in one hand.
[quote=Boothy]Thats where your all wrong, I can sit in Maccy D’z with my super cool chargecooler keeping my WOT’s and AFR’s in check so that when I pull away I have MAX POWER to pull donuts in the car park.
Try doing that on track with a big mac in one hand. [/quote]
I had something in my hand but to call it a BigMac is bragging in’it 
It’s the only car I keep in the UK - a toy for daddy basically. Main problem (other than personal injury) if I wreck it is how to get home…
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You’re probably right Jonny - 2 questions:
-
I currently have say 235 bhp at the hubs - so say 255 at the fly…do we think the gearbox is ok at a little more than that - say 270…have we had any failures below the 300 bhp mark ? (I know it’s more about torque but we all think more in terms of power - the relaitionship between the 2 seems relative linear on most of the modded toyota cars…)
-
I’m at 937.5 kg currently - I’d like to keep aircon and wireless - I reckon getting below 900 will be a big stretch - battery is still standard, other than wheels / seats there’s not much else I can do cheaply…? (have plexi rear screen, 2bular back box, fidanza fly, internal rear bulkhead panels / speakers etc out).
Thanks
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[quote=jonnyfox]I’d look at weight mate…seats, boot lid, wheels, roof and so on to below 895 but not enough to remove long distance comforts. Same time the next step to increase your Gotham tune to 270-280 and leave it. Sell the OEM stuff on, safe power regards gearbox and an improved power to weight making a noticeable difference. All quickly done left in the hands Essex or JSR.
[/quote]
[quote=chrisexigegt]
I had something in my hand but to call it a BigMac is bragging in’it [/quote]
[quote=SeanB]
Thing to remember is the driver has a lot to do with it. A well driven GT3 is a serious piece of kit and a badly driven one is gonna be slow. [/quote]
Is that you Rob?
[quote=Middo][quote=SeanB]
Thing to remember is the driver has a lot to do with it. A well driven GT3 is a serious piece of kit and a badly driven one is gonna be slow. [/quote]
Is that you Rob?[/quote]
I am very predictable
Battery - could loose 5kg (Braille carbon)
Roof - Carbon could save 2-3kg (Single skin carbon on Ebay)
Rear Engine lid - save another 5kg (Ebay again)
Wheels & Tyres - another 8-10kg (Shop around)
Front access panels - 1kg (Elise shop/Elise parts etc)
Seats - 10kg (Tillet or similar) (As above)
Should see you close to 900ish - cost around 2.5K if you shop around
Chris has the right idea… 
- Wheels 8-10kg �1500ish
- MOG/Reverie seats/fixed ally mounts +10kg �1500
- Reverie(BSK) Engine Lid 8kg…this is built to work with your intercooler btw very cool �1500
- Battery 5kg �100
- Roof from sector111 6kg �1500 Doable for you mate
better wider air intake in line exhaust of hot air through engine lid…really is very cool (Honest).
I realise the cost implication (I really do lol) but bar the battery all very resellable, actually keep the OEM parts 
.
Sh!t the bed this is getting complicated…!
Yup - Do it in stages and as John says keep the originals and if you need to sell later you can recoup some of the cash
I’d prioritise by cash versus weight - battery is a great start as that extra 5kg is in the rear of the car and then the roof - again weight at the top of the car.
I think there’s a thread somewhere either on here or SELOC that details the cost per kilo savings
Get all that done while you’re uping the power buddy, it will make a difference!
Seriously “Big Power”… 300 BPH is only the begining and the end for some…
Now hit 520+ hub…none of this 300 BHP girl stuff. 
Im with Frank!!
But not in a homo way!!!
[quote=SeanB]Im with Frank!!
[/quote]
Why?
His car runs, yours doesn’t!
Interesting tag line…having my Ohlins stiffened up…big holes in the back of the lights currently so all the water pisses in !
Yup - Do it in stages and as John says keep the originals and if you need to sell later you can recoup some of the cash
I’d prioritise by cash versus weight - battery is a great start as that extra 5kg is in the rear of the car and then the roof - again weight at the top of the car.
I think there’s a thread somewhere either on here or SELOC that details the cost per kilo savings[/quote]
[quote=Mr Pesky][quote=SeanB]Im with Frank!!
[/quote]
Why?
His car runs, yours doesn’t! [/quote]
Update I spun a rod after hammerin it with 56 psi. boost spikes a few times 
But it will be back on the road tomorrow with new stage 2 cams and hybred turbo with a redesigned exhaust manifold with a 60mm wastegate…
520 whp is for little girls… …To infinity and beyond…
That would be your weight mate I reckon…lol
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[quote=Dwarf101]Interesting tag line…having my Ohlins stiffened up…big holes in the back of the lights currently so all the water pisses in !
Yup - Do it in stages and as John says keep the originals and if you need to sell later you can recoup some of the cash
I’d prioritise by cash versus weight - battery is a great start as that extra 5kg is in the rear of the car and then the roof - again weight at the top of the car.
I think there’s a thread somewhere either on here or SELOC that details the cost per kilo savings[/quote] [/quote]
I think you are probably right Jonny - I do have a couple of fat mates though that probably have added to the problem…!
Big power is back and I think it’s hungry…
http://gallery.me.com/roninexige#100145