A couple of big ...

questions …

  1. Pagid RS14’s on the road ? I have been warned by a friend who races caterhams that they dont function that well on the road ! do you agree ? does anyone here use them on the road ?

  2. Lotus 111R vs Lotus Exige S1 190 ? What will the difference in lap times be, roughly ?

thanks guys.

RS14 on the Road - absolute perfect never a problem

Lap times ? - No idea depends on how long the straights are and how many corners there are


Pads - great news, I will get them ordered.

Lap Times - Ok, from a different angle, is the 111R faster on the straights or into/out of/round corners ?


Lap times … mmmm… difficult to say because we don’t time these at track-days… also, the 111R is so new that we haven’t come across too many at the track yet.

However, the 111R is very very accomplished and in the hands of the right driver will be quicker than an S1 exige in the hands of a less able pilot… but then… you knew that yeh

A 111R is quicker than my S1 boggo standard exige on the straights… more horsepower/less drag must counter the ptw benefit i have. Its not much but it was noticeable recently, even tho’ pilot of said 111R is a pretty succesful caterham racer (on the straight this dusnae mean much so its a pure power weight drag thing…).

  1. Pagid RS14s - Wouldn’t use anything else. They can give a bit of a squeal until they’re bedded-in but that just adds to the racecar-ness for it all. For some reason, RS15s aren’t as good BTW. They just don’t seem to get hot enough. RS14s are good from cold. Get RS42s if you’re really worried, I believe they’re an endurance racepad and maybe slightly more road suitable (probably not as fab though).

  2. I suspect the S1 Exige will still be quicker as the downforce would make a difference on a good track. Are the tyres narrower on the 111R? They also wouldn’t be the Yoko 48s, so I reckon the Exige would be 2secs up around Donny. Not that lap times are everything/anything, you may even have more fun in the 111R (and it has benefits on the road), I just think it may not feel as special.


Can you give any idea’s as to why the 111R questions?

The thing is, I have just ‘swapped’ an S1 Exige 190 for the 111R, c/w some S2 Exige wheels & tyres I’m still in the running in period though, but I do have some early impressions using both tyre sets…but obviously not on track.Yet

Looking at recent press tests, S2 Exige Vs 111R seem very similar. S1 Exige will no doubt be quicker though…but as others have said, it will depend on the track & driver etc.


I am booked in to do elvington in a couple of weeks (with a few other exiges - cant wait) and noticed a 111R is doing it as well. just wondered how they stack up, I know it mostly comes down to the driver but I assumed that most of the people doing track days are fairly compotent (big assumption ? its my first trackday).

Thanks guys as always.

…I assumed that most of the people doing track days are fairly compotent (big assumption ? its my first trackday).

Very big assumption. There can be slow people out there just for fun, arrogant people trying to prove their car is best, people in a Citroen BX with great local knowledge (look out for him at Anglesey!), etc

I think you’ll find track driving a whole new (VERY EXCITING!) world. If you get the chance get some instruction and you’ll quickly start to see what sets Mr Schumacher apart from the rest of us.

Good luck and have fun!


Thanks Ian,

I have done a few bike trackdays and done well on those, its now time to use the blue baby on the track and see how fast these cars are .

Is it advisable to open her flaps after a hard session ?
Err … what I mean is should I open the engine bay cover and the front compartment after a session ? I have also heard something about leaving the handbrake off as well, is this right ?

I think the best thing you can do for cooling is the mod behind the number plate (more in a mo). That way the heat never gets as hot in the first place. The problem is air goes into the engine bay with no real wayof getting out. So many of us have, one way or another, opened up the area behind the number plate. I have used a pipe cutter to drill two 2-inch holes and reattached the plate with velcro, so I just pull it off when I get to the track. Others have cut the whole area out and fitted mess and even a smaller plate. I quite like mike lane’s, he has a TVR Tuscan front like pattern behind the plate with lots of 10p piece size holes, with the plate mounted on washers slightly away from the body work (got a pic mike?).

I notice a difference in the cabin temperature and the engine’s performance when I’ve forgotten to take the plate off!

And yup, leave the handbrake off after a session (obviously on the flat) as it could warp the disk.


I had a bad experience at Mallory, when the car was parked in the paddock. A TVR owner parked his car uphill from mine after he’d been out on track. As the brakes cooled, the disks/pads contracted enough to release the handbrake pressure. The car rolled into the back of mine

Always leave the handbrake off, and leave the car in gear to stop it from moving.

I haven’t done the number plate opening thing because I actually use the boot space, and I don’t want water getting in.
If you want some extra cooling, I would start by opening up the dummy vents either side of the exhaust outlet. This doesn’t make a huge difference, but there are no downsides in terms of practicality, and if done right, it looks nice

If you want to get really serious about cooling, you can always opt for the motorsport engine cover. It’s expensive, and it really buggers up your rear visibility but it makes a massive difference.

Doesn’t the motorsport cover also wetten the boot space?

My cooling conversion does really let water in (other than when sponging the plate area too vigorously), as the plate remains in place with the holes behind it. I could even put a bit of rubber behind the plate to seal it from water more. I’d seriously recommend getting some cooling.


dont worry too much about the flaps I would also recommend only going out for 15-20 min stints if it goes to open pit lane as its amazing how much heats builds in the car after a period of time, always remember a cool down lap and never ever use your handbrake (make a real effort as its usually automatic)

like the others have said… don’t use the handbrake after a session… it will cause the discs to cool at different rates (where the pads make contact with disc versus where pads don’t make contact) and this can lead to warped discs and the pads sticking to the surface… it also means that heat-soak thru’ the pad into caliper can lead to localised ‘boiling’ of the brake fluid and you don’t want that either (although much less likely for us).

Heat soak within the engine block is also what you are trying to aviod by opening the hatches when you stop. I mostly don’t bother but have done it occassionally… at Knockhill there is more risk of the flimsy exige cover getting blown off than there is of the heat doing damage IMHO.

Doesn’t the motorsport cover also wetten the boot space?

Mine doesn’t. See here for my water ducts. They take the water from the rear vents and dump it into the engine bay.

I remembered somebody had done it, but wasn’t sure who.

What material did you use? it looks like plastic, the kind needed to repair the wheel arches…

I used fibreglass. Probably no good for wheel arch liners. Not flexible enough?
Hmmm…thinking about it, I’m not sure. What do you reckon?

Naaa, need some sort of plastic, similar to what they’re made from.

The sparco rally style mudflaps that I bough should be ok, but I haven’t found the ideal glue, plastic to plastic.


Wouldn’t arlidite (sp?) do the job? Or there’s some stuff called plastic weld or plastic cement… I’ve used it extensively on repairing my RC car (cracked wishbones etc.) and normally it’s another part that brakes next to the weld

You really need to plastic weld it - its just like brazing but with a rod of plastic … There are not many glues that will work well with the plastic used - and also take the forces subjected by bending the the thing into place when re-fitting …