2006 Exige S

Just had a lunchtime tweak, pretty much got it sorted already I think.

Lambda target was leaned out a bit during the idle load range, took a tiny bit of fuel out and reverted the ignition retard that I put in and the idle is now sitting comfortably around stoich. The Idle is back to being a little clumsy though, when blipping the throttle it drops a bit too low and threatens to stall - exactly the same behaviour I had on the OEM ECU so this engine certainly likes a bit of fuel around idle… so I may have to have an MOT map and a usable map. :mrgreen:

I’ll pull the plugs out once the car has cooled down a bit, I presume they’ll need a clean - and that will hopefully fix the high rpm misfire.

Top job, Kyle. Today I washed the white car again. Gleaming.

Not quite top work, I spotted my issue with the misfire… quite embarrassing!

I was focussing in on the lean spikes (circled in red) and beginning to suspect something mechanical, maybe dodgy injector or something. What was also confusing me was why the EGO feedback wasn’t freaking out and throwing fuel at it to remedy - it wasn’t even activating, so that turned me to something software related… then I widened my scope a little bit, and found the issue… traction control is inexplicably kicking in :laughing: (blue circle)

As I’ve said a few times in this thread, my TC setup is very basic - as I’m currently not receiving a usable wheel speed signal from the front axle I can’t use a proper setup which detects a differential between driven and passive wheels, I’m left relying on ECUMasters “RPM Gain” strategy which looks for spikes in RPM. I was almost certainly not getting any wheel slip today, so I can only assume that my different gear ratios are maybe fooling the system a bit. I know how to adjust the ratios in the software, so I’ll fix that next time out.

MOT retest passed today, by a long way!

I originally failed with 1.14% CO (1.53% on the first test!) and the threshold for a pass is 0.2%. Today I passed with 0.08% :sunglasses:

Pretty happy, partly because I now have a taxable car but also it’s always reassuring when you make changes to the map and you get out the results you expected :laughing:

Oh, and switching off TC did indeed fix the “misfire”… car feels rather rapid :astonished:

Super dooper!

Great news!

You can properly call yourself a mapper now :thumbup:

Kyle mapping before his MOT

:thumbup: :thumbup:

Great work Kyle, glad to see it’s back on the road.

I’m trying not to panic, but my new clutch is being quite noisy from cold… or more specifically, the release bearing is.

If I start the car and leave it idling with no pressure on the pedal I get a very slight rattle/chatter coming from the clutch/gearbox area. The slightest hint of pressure on the clutch pedal and the noise goes away, however if I push the clutch all the way in and give it some revs, the bearing starts whining in time with the RPM - almost sounds like a quiet boost leak.

This is especially annoying because I was warned off of using aftermarket release bearings when I first took this job on. That’s not a dig at competition clutch and their supplied bearings specifically, it was just a generic piece of advice to say Toyota OEM bearings are almost certainly going to be made better, and last longer… so I bought one, not particularly cheap but I bought one and fitted it to the first attempt of the clutch job. When I had the drama with the first clutch kit not working/releasing, I made the decision to fit one of the two CC bearings I had on the next attempt just because I wanted to avoid any/all warranty hot water… so the new toyota bearing is now sat in a box on my shelf and the CC one is seemingly making noises.

I say I’m trying not to panic because I know I need to get some bedding in miles done, but it’s starting to feel like wishful thinking that a few road miles will fix this. I’ve been under the car and double checked everything around the slave cylinder etc, checked the pivot point was still nicely greased but I did add some grease to the fork/pushrod interface. Might also give the clutch another bleed, but really clutching at straws here I think.

The good news is that I can only replicate the noises for the first minute or two of running the car, once I drive it - it’s totally silent, and even once I reach my destination and do some low speed manoeuvres it’s quiet as a mouse, so it might be something I can live with.

I do hope its a bedding in thing! Trouble is now you have heard it, all you will do is listen out for it every time you start the car

It was always going to be a tricky one as if it worked the warranty was irrelevant, but you didn’t want it going wrong again and them blaming the yota bearing

Yep exactly my thoughts, I just wanted to everything absolutely in accordance with CC’s textbook to avoid any complications. Probably a decision I’d make again and again if rerunning the scenario so I guess I can’t dwell on it too much.

Greasing the pushrod/fork interface does seem to have killed the “neutral pedal rattle” so maybe that was just the fork rattling around on the slave. The whine/screech is still there when I depress the pedal so we’ll see how that goes as the miles rack up.

Couple of wee updates, one pretty dull and one slightly less dull.

Before the winter work I fitted a Mishimoto sandwich plate to allow me to generate a bit more oil temp in the car. This has definitely worked, or at least moved things in the right direction (could probably still be hotter in all fairness, but I’ll judge it properly after some track sessions) but I wasn’t 100% happy with the adaptors I’d had made up for the oil cooler lines. The Mishi plate has M20 female threads and the Lotus oil cooler lines are 5/8bsp… it seems no adaptor exists for that.

The ones I had made up were based on two conversions, M20 to something else (M10? I Can’t remember) and then M10 to 5/8 BSP so the adaptors were fairly long and caused very low clearance to the bulkhead/plumbing which made me nervous. It also introduced one extra failure point. A fellow community member got in touch and said he’d been speaking with a fabrication firm about putting together a small order of custom adaptors so I bought into that, and they arrived this week:

I got these fitted up, they’re much closer to the dimensions of the OEM sandwich plate adaptors so much happier.

Next update, I’d bought a new spoiler for the car towards the end of last year. I wasn’t 100% sure whether I’d fit it or not, but after trying it out - I don’t want to go back!

It’s made by LEA Composites, full carbon fibre and has an adjustable angle on it. Neither of those attributes are what attracted me to it, it was more the fact it’s ~30% wide than the original wing and (imo) fits the body lines much better.

Compared to the stumpy one the car came with:

I think it looks much better, and is 2kg lighter too. There are a few ‘clam mounted’ options available, which all look great but I personally love the Pre-08 rear wing and the bootlid mounts on aesthetics alone (if you want an actually functional wing, clam mounted is the way to go). The bootlid mount just looks more cohesive with the design of the car IMO.

I now have a problem where I’ve got a random piece of token carbon on the car… :confused:

Wing suits car very well . . and it’s lighter. Fair result :thumbup:

Its the first of many and you know it…

The wider wing looks much better, ties in nicely to the lines like you say

Another wing fan here but this leads me onto the next question ; What is next?

New kitchen next, so maybe Carbon Fibre will have to wait… Unless I go for 2x2 twill weave worktops? :laughing:

Back to Mr Seriously for a geo and spanner check prior to Blyton this weekend.

Nice sunny morning to take the car out, also racked up another 100miles or so on the clutch bedding process. Not sure if the release bearing noise is getting better or what, it’s definitely only when the car is clap cold - once I’ve driven 100 yards or so, it’s silenced so probably not worth worrying about long term.

Got to meet John too, looks like John and Dave could be quite the tag team. I asked John to just glance over my handiwork, which was worthwhile as he spotted a couple of bolts that were slightly shorter than spec so they were swapped out pronto - but other than that, no alarm bells with the suspension setup.

Ride height was left unchanged from my previous setup, but we took some shims out at the front to get a bit more front camber. With me using the car less and less on the road relative to track use, I may get a bit more aggressive on setup as the year progresses but want to avoid big changes for now until I get a handle on the car with the new ARB and differential.

Calm before the storm now, hoping for a smooth shakedown day at Blyton this weekend. Expecting it to be rather busy, so may not be a day for lots of track time but still a good opportunity to baseline the car and figure out what needs fixing/tweaking before my bigger trackdays later in the year.

Great stuff. Well timed, too. I’m poised to un-SORN and get out in the sunshine

Trackday report, woo! Sorry if it’s a bit dry, just want to note down my observations for my benefit later.

I attended Blyton Park with Javelin over the bank holiday weekend to shake the car down, and start to get up to speed before the ‘big’ trackdays of the year.

The day before I gave the brakes one last bleed and finally got that glob of air that has been plaguing me! Car felt great on the test drive, but I did notice something worrying… every time I stomped on the brakes to test, my oil pressure gauge dropped to 0bar. I went to bed that night trying to convince myself it was an instrumentation error and nothing more, oil levels were fine and nowt’ was leaking, and the OEM oil idiot light didn’t light up.

On the drive over to Blyton my indicated oil pressure started fluctuating wildly, I pulled over and checked levels/leaks - still nothing - so I tiptoed to Blyton and hoped for the best. By the time I got there, the gauge was completely knackered and just kept flashing “FL”. Either it meant “Fucking Low!” or it was some kind of error code, either way the car was still running and had a sump full of oil so I decided to ignore it and hope for the best.

Spoiler alert, the sender wires had gotten pinched between my sump and one of the undertray naca ducts:

Onto the track, the car immediately felt fine. No fireworks, no questionable handling traits, no weird noises or sensations - it just felt ‘safe’. Pleasant surprise, but I was way off the pace just trying to be on hyper alert to anything falling off.

I gradually built up speed through the day, but still a fair lick away from my best at Blyton. I can’t blame the car for that, just a rusty driver combined with a very crowded track I think.

I’ve spent the last couple of days reflecting, trying to evaluate the car and the various changes. My summary is as follows:

Anti Roll Bar/Suspension Geo/Bushes(?): The showed no particular bias towards under or oversteer, it just works. Perhaps this is a result of me being a little bit slower on entry than I’m used to at Blyton - not pushing hard enough, but it felt like a great base to push forward. I was concerned the ARB would introduce some front end push, but no evidence of it. I had it set to the middle of three settings which in theory should be a bit stiffer than OEM. I’m not sure whether it was the ARB, bushes or both but the car felt a lot more direct when ‘tipping it in’ at higher speeds, makes it feel much more assertive - good change, 8/10. Only thing stopping 10/10 is that I felt I didn’t push it hard enough for proper appraisal.

Gearbox - Ratios: The shorter ratios granted by the final drive change was probably the biggest thing I needed to adapt to, it’s definitely a positive change - but it caught me out in a couple of places. Previously I could lean on third gear powering through Lancaster (long sweeping left) because the power delivery was dull through the tighter part of the corner, and only got into the high torque band once the track opened out a bit. Now the car is much more lairy through the earlier part of the corner where you’re waiting for things to settle down a bit. In other areas I was hitting the limiter (4th at the end of the back straight, 3rd coming up to the first corner) so I need to be short shifting into 5th/4th and carrying more speed. This definitely makes the car feel (much) quicker, easily worth many horsepowers is my not-scientific appraisal. 9/10, maybe a bit compromised at Blyton due to not having very long straights, but expect it to be a solid 10 at Croft.

Gearbox - Differential: I was a bit scared of the diff for much of the day because I didn’t know exactly what the car would do. When pressing on later though, I just couldn’t upset the rear no matter what I tried. The car has bags of grip, where it used to spin the inside rear I was expecting the car to slide with an LSD, but it doesn’t - it just pings me out of the corner and I’m gone. On a quieter track I’ll play with it a bit more and see what else it has to offer. 10/10 - no notable downsides (yet).

Brakes - Carbotech XP8 pads: It seems like a lifetime ago that I fitted these, but this was my first track outing on them. Easily the best braking setup I’ve had in any of my cars, so much more stopping power than the RS42s (should be a given really), but I’m reluctant to compare them against the RS14’s I had purely because I ran those with a cracked disc - so not a fair test. My stopping distances were so short, in the morning I actually had to get back on the gas a couple of times before turning in :laughing: Seriously good, they don’t seem to have worn excessively but they did give off lots of dust (which hosed straight off) and they do clatter around in the calipers a bit now they’ve had a few heat cycles in them. 8/10, only the noise stops 10/10.

Airbox/Induction Kit: The only negative from the day really, it was really really noisy. Not enough to trip sound meters, I think it’s just limited to the inside of the car but the supercharger shriek is borderline painful now, even with a helmet on. 3/10.

BUT…

From checking logs from the ECU, my car is making a bit more boost since my winter tinkerings… I’m not exactly sure why, but I can only think it’s the airbox being less restrictive. Car was peaking at 9.6PSI compared to the 8PSI it was making last year…(averaged across all trackdays, ambient temps have no appreciable impact) I only noticed this as my ECU was no longer correcting fuel via wideband (I found the wideband correction to be capped at 160kpa for some reason, so quick fix to up it to 180). This suggests to me that the filter is definitely a positive change as far as the performance of the engine is concerned… so perhaps the 3/10 is a little harsh!

The car suffered a couple of casualties:

  1. My internal gopro mount, it’s a bit broken. I thought it was just too slack when I initially reviewed my footage (mostly of the back of my helmet) but it seems like it’s taken a knock and needs replacing. No big deal, but does mean all of the video I’ve checked so far is trash :frowning:

  2. I lost both front centre caps, one was later returned to me - but the other one is long gone. Pretty stupid, every set of wheels I’ve had on every car I’ve ever tracked has had this problem, so normally jam the centre caps in with tape - totally forgot with these wheels.

So pretty successful day really, certainly a good base to build on this year. I also got to meet my cars doppleganger…

Pretty much the exact same spec as me in terms of chargecooler, gearbox upgrades, suspension/ARB etc… he’s just running a smaller pulley so making a bit more power. Didn’t get to share the track with him, but it certainly looked to be flying when I saw it from the sidelines.

Anglesey next (May BH Weekend), will get the gauge fixed and other than that - just a spanner check and hopefully some road miles to enjoy the car a bit between now and then.

Great to see all the winter work has been worth it!

How did the induction stack up against noise meters?

Hard to say at Blyton, they don’t do static tests - so you only find out how loud you are if you trip the drivebys… which I didn’t, but plenty did that day!